Thanks Phil.

And looking at that, they are facing against each other rather than fitting inside each other.
I've not been able to find anything like the detail you have in that pic, do you have a PDF of that part of the manual? Or available somewhere? I'll have another look in Topix, but it wasn't that clear before when I checked.

OK, clarified the washers, they need to go against each other as seen here.

Transfer box all back together again, ready for fitting on Wednesday. Thanks for the info on here, it's been really useful.

Hi Phil
Sorry, but I can't read the dimensions on the drawing for tool 308-598. Can you please let me know how deep the front oil seal should be into the casing ?
Thanks

I’m not sure which drawing you are referring to? Unfortunately, I don’t have a DD295 in my workshop at the moment to be able to measure the seal depth. Maybe someone else can help? The 308-598 tool has a machined face which abuts up against the casing when the seal is installed to the correct depth, so I guess you are asking the question to avoid having to source the special tool?

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Many thanks Phil. Whilst searching around for a measurement of the oil seal depth, I came across a rough sketch of the LR tool but it was so pixellated that the measurements were not clear enough. I'm sure it was in one of your threads on the DD295. I made the great mistake of not remembering where the seal was when I took it out and I pushed the new seal in just 2mm too far. The result was the oil seeped out - which I only discovered on the test drive. Anyway, to cut a long story short, I could see the two limiting points beyond which the seal could not go, otherwise it would leak. So I placed it halfway between the two - which was at a depth of 22mm. I turned a piece of aluminium bar to ensure that the seal went in square.

The really great thing about doing this job twice is that you get better at it the second time around.

I've got a problem with my Transfer box (my thread here), no worrying noises or range selection issues. It's just the centre diff seems 'stuck on' so turning or parking sees the tyres scrubbing big time. I found these codes in the TCCM:

P2789-00 Clutch adaptive learning at its limit
P186D-00 Clutch actuator is stuck

Any thoughts? Is this likely a mechanical issue, or am right in thinking this is an electrical/software problem?

*EDIT* I have SDD I think it's called on a diagnostics laptop, so will be looking at this today when I get the chance.

Still trying to get SDD to work

The more I read into this, the more I'm inclined to think the shift solenoid is sticking. Is it possible to check it with SDD? (once I get it working)

So, is the shift motor definitely functioning okay and turning the splined motor shaft? i.e. are you able to select low range and then get back into high again? The shift motor controls the range change with the solenoid off. With the solenoid on, the shift motor controls the clutch actuation.

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Hi Phil and thanks for the reply.

Yes the range selection seems to work fine - high and low both working with no issues.

Your explanation about the solenoid seems to marry up with my symptoms, if we assume the solenoid is not being powered in my car. Hopefully get a chance tomorrow to climb under her and check the electrical connection to the solenoid. I managed to get SDD working after a fashion. It said it was connected to the car, but wasn't able to communication with any of the modules. Will play with it some more in the morning.

The solenoid is pretty accessible and bolted directly to the outside of the casing.

It should be evident if the wiring is bad, and swapping the solenoid should be pretty straight forwards if it is bad. There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
Fiat 500x 1.4 multiair Lounge 2015
2010 LR D4 Commercial 2.7 TDV6

I've noticed this morning that when the car was cold, all seemed to work as it should. It was only after she warmed up a bit that the tyres started scrubbing again..

I've been working on customers' cars all day so didn't get a chance to check it out. Intend to tomorrow ...

I’m still not sure, though, how the solenoid – even if faulty – could cause the clutch to lock in the ‘on’ position.

The mechanism for disengaging the clutch, as the shift motor rotates the cam/ramp via the shifting sleeve, appears to rely solely on the clutch return springs (shown in the bottom LH corner of the photo below)

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'Clutching' at straws here, but perhaps a fluid change on the transfer box..?

So it's been a few days. I managed to get under and checked the connections to the transfer box. They all seemed okay and reseating them didn't seem to do anything.

What I have noticed though, is that the lockups are becoming less noticeable, in that it's happening less. It's almost as though the centre diff/clutch is 'loosening off'. Perhaps the car has been sat a while?

Anyway, it appears to be clearing itself. I've got transfer box oil coming from Rimmer Bros that should arrive in the next day or so and when I've finished working on the couple of customers' cars I've got in atm, I'll change the oil. Hopefully that'll see it right...

Talking of which, I'm planning to flushing the transmission fluid and spotted this thread on a BMW forum detailing diy 'mega-flushing'. Anyone here done this?

https://5series.net/forums/diy-do-yourself...sh-143820/