Not sure of the merits of a mega flush over a simple fluid and filter change on a 6hp box.

Double drop of the fluid and a new filter pan will get most of the old oils out. There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
Fiat 500x 1.4 multiair Lounge 2015
2010 LR D4 Commercial 2.7 TDV6

Apparently not. From what I've read, double drop only gets 40-60% of the old fluid out...

not really

think about it, takes about 9 litres

on the first drop you should get around 4-5 litres out.

so 50% dilution, around half the old oil left

second drop again 50% dilution of a 50/50 mix, so you should only have 25% of the original oil left so 75% swapped, after that it gets a bit pointless as the amount of the old oil changed gets smaller and smaller.  There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
Fiat 500x 1.4 multiair Lounge 2015
2010 LR D4 Commercial 2.7 TDV6

My oil and filter was done about 3,000 miles ago if I do another drain is it worth doing the filter or should I do a double oil change and a new filter on the second one or just do a oil and filter change?

if it was only done 3000 miles ago I personally wouldn't bother doing the filter again, just drop the oil once more and you will have swapped most of it. Bear in mind that the box oil will be in decent condition upto around 40000 miles. ZF only recommend changing it at around 60k if it is used for frequent towing, otherwise around 100km, so at 3000 miles the oil in there is still pretty much brand new. .

Personally a change at 60k is a good preventative measure, or for super peace of mind 40k. There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
Fiat 500x 1.4 multiair Lounge 2015
2010 LR D4 Commercial 2.7 TDV6

northernmonkeyjones wrote:

...you should only have 25% of the original oil left so 75% swapped...

From what I've read out there on several different forums that use the zf6hp26 box, I think that figure's a little optimistic but I respect your opinion. Personally, I will be going down the full flushing route. It means more than twice the oil, but I can live with that. I have a suspicion that my TC is a little poorly and want to try fresh fluid before I rip it apart, but all the fluid has to be fresh and all the crap in the box needs to come out

Okay, so I did the megaflush on the transmission today modifying my old sump as per the 5 series thread I linked to earlier. It took all 17 litres I had to do the flush and I could probably have done with another 5 litres to get it completely clean. That said, what was coming out at the end was pretty good.

Problems I was having; revs fluctuating in gear when accelerating from slower speeds and vibration from TC when accelerating in 3rd gear on a decent incline. All seems resolved after a short test drive tonight. Took some photos while doing the job, perhaps an expert can comment on the metal swarf on the sump magnets..?

So have finally got the correct amount of transfer box oil and changed it out.

Result? The centre diff no longer locks on steering/parking or tramping on pulling out from junctions

I am just in the thows of rebuilding my Range rover sport transfer box, had one failed bearing that has distributed itself through the box, my oil pump is tight , does not look like it comes apart , any idea if a replacement is available ?
I have got bearings and seals from LR spares out of the uk , but without a pump cannot put back together

JPAT here in the UK may be able to supply the pump. Their catalogue shows the pump (90), clip (91) and suction pipe (92) being available as a kit (K15).

https://www.jpat.co.uk/uploads/1/0/3/5/103...itcpla.pdf

My 2007 TDV8 DD295 Transfer Box is currently being overhauled, the bearings became noisy at around 40 – 70kmh so is now in the shop and seals, bearings, chain, oil pump, selector, clutch plates and clutch grips have been replaced.

Transfer was re-fitted and calibrated with IIDtool then taken test drive, there was a random loud Clunk when slowing down, particularly around the 3rd to 2nd down shift.

It’s going back on hoist on Monday for teardown and my current thinking is the Bellville washers aren’t fitted in the correct orientation (in series) allowing the shaft to move forward into the gearbox spline, “clunk”.

Anyone know if there any other area in the Transfer the we should look at for this type of movement?


Thanks,
Graham Smith

Hello Gents, anyone can help me locate an input shaft for the transfer box? I have contacted LR Direct but they don't have. Thanks

JPAT & Sussex Autos (https://www.sussexautos.com/products/itc-p...&_ss=r) here in the UK, or Cobra Transmission (https://cobratransmission.com/itc-dd295-drive-shaft-55166021-1) in the USA.

Phil

Thanks Phil, really appreciate it.

Happy hollidays

Great write up. Just need to replace the input shaft.... can you just split and replace without removing all the motors etc. Trying to avoid any re calibration.... Thoughts?