Ah in that case I would have a look at the chain. There are a few cases of these stretching though it's not that common. New chains are available but from memory a PitA to get hold of, I think there is a supplier in the states.

Do you have your original box? As you can see they come apart quite easily, and are just silicone sealed together. If you can get the two on the bench you may be able to make a good one out of the pair either by putting the bearings out of the replacement into the old one or the chain/broken bit into the new replacement. I would haazzard a guess if you opened them up you will see the problem. There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
Fiat 500x 1.4 multiair Lounge 2015
2010 LR D4 Commercial 2.7 TDV6

Great write up, and looks like a "cheap" fix if the pump hasn't been damaged

I'm sure your work will be appreciated

I love fault finding on things and fixing stuff in general, but I'm currently trying to find a dead short on my ERF 38t EC11 artic, caused by a battery failure/jump start, not getting great pleasure at the moment  Regards
Royston

2008 4.2 Supercharged Autobiography
1994 Classic Vogue SE
1999 Rover BRM
1987 Rover Vitesse Twin Plenum

Just an update for all those people who find this thread whilst researching their own transfer box issue. Mines a 2008 FFRR TDV8.

One of my output shaft bearings failed (to rear prop), sounded like a wheel bearing in the early stages. I fitted a second hand transfer case which sounded wrong from day one, it banged and clanged when turning corners. I was told it might need calibrating on autodata or similar but it turns out the second hand box was u/s. A new bearing was sourced from Emmett Enterprises in Stockport, £11.50 plus vat and my mechanic friend split the box, changed the bearing then refitted. All the parts need to be dragged out of the bigger side of case and stacked in the smaller side of the case so that the two arms with roller bearings on can be pulled apart and seated properly. As mentioned before in this thread you must use the special landrover only oil. It says "special transfer case oil" on the front of the bottle, £25.00 plus vat per litre. Also make sure you obtain a new output shaft seal LRO86042 or IZB500050, it has a dust lip on it, so landrover only £12.50 plus vat. A worry on the refit was that the input, and both output shafts appeared to be diff locked together. On start up the hi low lights flashed, transmission failure on the display and awful noises came from the box. Drove forward 1 meter, then back then turned the ignition off and on and everything was fine. Going to try and get a refund on the second hand case. 2015 SDV8 AB
2008 TDV8 Vogue gone
2005 TD6 Vogue gone
2003 TD6 Vogue gone

northernmonkeyjones wrote:

New chains are available but from memory a PitA to get hold of, I think there is a supplier in the states.

JP Automatic Transmissions near Bristol advertise that they stock parts for the DD295 transfer box

Click image to enlarge

Phil

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Just going through the refurb of a spare transfer box I have. No info on removing the bearings on this thread, are they all fit to 'stop' or need to be a set depth?

Thanks all.

Special transfer box oil... isn't that a posh name for fully synthetic hypoid oil? unless there's an LSD in the later boxes, then it's LSD oil that's needed  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Hi Bodsy the bearings seat in their stops nicely, no need to worry about pushing them too far. One thing that caught me out (amongst others) was the cir clips on the input and output shafts press in, into the shaft not out. 2015 SDV8 AB
2008 TDV8 Vogue gone
2005 TD6 Vogue gone
2003 TD6 Vogue gone

really good write up, looks like a pretty straight forward rebuild.

Hi, the write up is all down to RRPhil, I just used it to help me with my noisy transfer case, still had a though time even using RRPhil's write up 2015 SDV8 AB
2008 TDV8 Vogue gone
2005 TD6 Vogue gone
2003 TD6 Vogue gone

PHG wrote:

Hi Bodsy the bearings seat in their stops nicely, no need to worry about pushing them too far. One thing that caught me out (amongst others) was the cir clips on the input and output shafts press in, into the shaft not out.

Useful info, thanks. I had been looking at them and figuring out that they can only really go in as just not enough space to pick it out.

Bearing kit arrives tomorrow, so will see how it goes!

DD295K bearing kit arrived from Advanced Factors this morning, so off out to have a play...

Most of the bearings replaced, decided not Tibet change the one at the eng of the selector shaft as I'm pretty sure that'll be relatively low impact low useage.
Just the one blind bearing to do tomorrow. Need to see if i can get hold of a slide hammer blind bearing puller set tomorrow.
Or I might leave that one. Lol.

Ok, so the belvoir washers, I've forgotten to take a pick of where they sit. I thought they were at the bottom of all the gubbins, but then I think the spacer was as well.....
Did they go together at the bottOk or should the spring loaded washers go at the other end....?

Errr help.....

Autocorrect! Belville not belvoir.

http://s260.photobucket.com/user/GearShift...1.jpg.html

RRPhil wrote:

Although I’d expected this 6210 C3 bearing to be manufactured by one of the ‘high end’ suppliers such as SKF, INA/FAG, NTN, etc. it’s actually manufactured by a company I’ve never heard of – ZKL of Slovakia.


Phil

Looking at the diagram in the manual, the two springs appear to be stacked in series between the circlip and the bearing.

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

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