Try and lift the cooler out level as possible, but it's tricky. I had coolant and oil everywhere though. Have plenty of rags handy and if ur unsure, do an oil change after. I did an oil flush and then changed the oil just incase. Some people have drained the coolant before they remove the cooler. Would be a good idea, but it's another job. Try to remove the plastic pipe that goes into the cooler on the left hand side. It's held on by a metal clip and is about 1 inch across. You may get some coolant out of that. It needs to be removed anyway. 2012 L322 4.4 TDV8
2001 P38 2.5 BMW

Thanks Mike/Alan

Weather is holding so i'm going to attempt some more.

Will hopefully take a few pictures of the cooler

is it worth using Hylomar when reassembling?

also is Shell Helix Ultra Professional AG 5W-30 ok to top up with? it's £6.87 a litre at ECP?

What is the recommended coolant?

Sorry lots of questions?

Pink coolant is all about the same. Check the oil on the shell website. They should have a vehicle check facility. I used Comma ECL5L 5L Ecolife Fully Synthetic 5W30 Motor Oil. Amazon does it for about £35 for 5 litres. 2012 L322 4.4 TDV8
2001 P38 2.5 BMW

For the oil you need Shell AF -L as per the photo, but note the “L” is VERY important.

Click image to enlarge

On my first fix I used Hylomar. Don't think it's necessary, but it may be worth it in the long term if your new gaskets start to shrink. Only time will tell that. 2012 L322 4.4 TDV8
2001 P38 2.5 BMW

Thanks for the advice i've ordered some oil/coolant before I actually start it back up.

I took some pictures of the cooler before and after it was off. Looks like it could be the source of my oil leak.

when I took the top pipe off in step 6 there was no coolant but it did drain out of the bottom pipe.

finally got it all back together to realise I had not put the clips back on the top hose in step 6 Doh!

Will have to dismantle tomorrow and clip them back on.

Kevio

Well done on the pics. My dread was leaving a pipe off or a plug unconnected!! I put all my nuts etc in labelled bags so I didn't get them muddled up. Bit over kill tho. It's also worth making notes or pics or parts removed/unplugged for reference when it's reassembly time. 2012 L322 4.4 TDV8
2001 P38 2.5 BMW

I did mine about three weeks ago and approached it like brain surgery. But I think you kinda have to?

Oil leak has 100% stopped, but I still keep checking the drive way and underside as I can’t believe how easy it was.

I was also worried about causing an airlock in the coolant system as I also replaced the expansion tank, but no issues - runs perfectly.

All thanks to knowledge shared in the forum. 2012 4.4 TDV8 Westminster - Baltic Blue, Jet interior
1997 P38 2.5 DSE auto & 1998 P38 2.5 DT Manual
1988 Vogue 3.5 EFI - Manual, gone.
2004 Volvo C70 2.0T convertible, had since new.
2007 Mazda MX-5 2.0 Sport Roadster/Coupé, had since new.
2024 Mini Cooper S cabrio, JCW kit, 2.0, DCT auto

AlanS wrote:

On my first fix I used Hylomar. Don't think it's necessary, but it may be worth it in the long term if your new gaskets start to shrink. Only time will tell that.

That may be the case, but if they change the compound of the gasket, they don't have to change the part number. The part number would still relate to a certain part that fits in a certain place. I would hope JLR are aware of the issue and have changed the material to a more long lasting one! 2012 L322 4.4 TDV8
2001 P38 2.5 BMW

I've found that LR have always allocated a new number to an improved design or improved material, unlike some other manufacturers that give a totally revised part the same number as the earlier version. The complete oil cooler/filter assembly still has the original part number which indicates to me that the gasket between the 2 halves is the same gasket, even though that gasket has only been available as a spare part for a few years.

Just had my Westie go through its annual service at a local LR Indy where all was fine apart from an oil leak diagnosed as a problem with the oil cooler which needed sorting asap.

"That'll be £1,050 plus Vat allowing for labour and a new oil cooler".

Found this thread so with some trepidation got the gaskets and 0-rings for the pipe at the back of the cooler and had a go myself.

I didn't take pics but looked like the gasket between the two parts of the oil cooler had failed right at the back in the middle.

There were some fiddly bits but nothing really too tricky so my sincere thanks for the excellent description above of how to go about tackling it, fantastic resource and a great example of how you need to consider your options before going belly up and handing over a bundle of cash!

Thanks

John

Well done. Thus forum gave me enough info and courage to have a go aswell!! 2012 L322 4.4 TDV8
2001 P38 2.5 BMW