Thanks for the feedback, I agree re moving things by hand.

I did also try to push the rack boots back to check for fluid leaks from the rack end seals but couldn't, it seems they are only meant to come towards the wheel not fold back towards the rack.

Besides I'm not loosing fluid so hopefully all ok there too.

Happy new year all!

Think its time for a thread name change.

How about '5 RRs and I WONT give up'

I'm closing in on the steering issue now, going to remove the lower steering column next and check for any binding/seizing.

If that isn't the problem then we only have the hydraulic side of the system left.

I'm working on borrowing or building pressure test equipment so that I can check that the new pump is generating the correct pressure and also use it to check if the rack is suffering with worn internal seals (i.e bypassing fluid so not providing full power assist)

Wishing everyone a happy, healthy and prosperous 2025.

So with help from fantastic forum member Pawl I have been able to conduct a pressure test on the power steering system.

Here's the results:

Pressure at idle, wheels stationary: 60psi

Same again but engine at 1500 rpm: 60psi
As above but engine at 3000 rpm: 60psi

Deadhead test (maximum possible pump pressure)

Run 1: 1750 psi
Run 2: 1750 psi
Run 3: 1750 psi

Steering held at left hand lock: 1750psi
Steering held at right hand lock: 1750psi

According to the version of the WSM I have the acceptable max pressure is 132 bar with a tolerance of +- 8 bar.

The above results are just about at the bottom of acceptable spec (124 bar)

This pretty much rules out the pump as OK.

The lock to lock tests match the deadhead test so hopefully this also rules out the rack as OK. (I.e there is no internal bypass of fluid in the rack)

i am sure i have posted before that i have had power steering problems, and lately its got worse.
i have a procedure which i follow, some times it works, some times it takes a few goes.
having got in the car, closed the doors, waited a second or so for the electrics to settle.
i put the key in the ignition and turn it on, not crank, just on.
i wait for the steering wheel to find its place and wait until the dash lights have settled.
then i get a dong, then i wait for a second bong, then i crank it.
if i still have no power steering, i turn every thing off, wait a couple of seconds and do it all again.
some times i find if i drive it drive it a few feet, and try again, it works. yesterday i had to do it four times before i got power steering.
this works for me
i believe i have a earth fault some where, or a faulty control box some where RR 2005 4.4 petrol
Any spelling mistakes are the fault of spellchecker
Previous MG J2, CITROEN light 15 x 2 gone unfortunately
Present MERC 180e, RANGE ROVER L322, JAGUAR XJS, MERC 280SE, MG F, JAGUAR S-Type 6v 2003, jaguar s-type 8v 2004, Ford Cougar

Yours sounds like an issue with the servotronic valve or BCM Knares.

I've now at the point with mine where everything has been checked except the lower steering column/intermediate shaft.

I will remove this and check it properly off the car as soon as I can.

i seem to have lost my power steering altogether now RR 2005 4.4 petrol
Any spelling mistakes are the fault of spellchecker
Previous MG J2, CITROEN light 15 x 2 gone unfortunately
Present MERC 180e, RANGE ROVER L322, JAGUAR XJS, MERC 280SE, MG F, JAGUAR S-Type 6v 2003, jaguar s-type 8v 2004, Ford Cougar

Have you looked at diagnostics to see if your BCM is outputting the correct pwm signal to the servotronic valve Knares?

Here's a video I forgot to add of mine showing the pressure at idle (60psi) then turning the steering to right hand lock and all the way back to left hand lock.

I think I'm happy that all the hydraulic side of my power steering is working correctly.

https://youtube.com/shorts/ppaZIovfKCo?si=HXzXOKCs73H9S3ED

I need to remove the lower steering column/intermediate shaft and inspect the UJs properly as this is literally the only thing I haven't checked yet!

interesting
where have you connected that to ???
however, i do believe my problem is electrical RR 2005 4.4 petrol
Any spelling mistakes are the fault of spellchecker
Previous MG J2, CITROEN light 15 x 2 gone unfortunately
Present MERC 180e, RANGE ROVER L322, JAGUAR XJS, MERC 280SE, MG F, JAGUAR S-Type 6v 2003, jaguar s-type 8v 2004, Ford Cougar

Its fitted inline between the power steering pump and the high pressure hose to the rack.

Yours does sound like a problematic BCM not sending the required PWM signal to the servotronic valve.

What model year is your RR?

manufactured 12/12/04
vin says 05 RR 2005 4.4 petrol
Any spelling mistakes are the fault of spellchecker
Previous MG J2, CITROEN light 15 x 2 gone unfortunately
Present MERC 180e, RANGE ROVER L322, JAGUAR XJS, MERC 280SE, MG F, JAGUAR S-Type 6v 2003, jaguar s-type 8v 2004, Ford Cougar

Have you looked at diagnostics to see if your BCM is outputting the correct pwm signal to the servotronic valve Knares?
i have the iidtool bt, but i wouldn't know how to do that RR 2005 4.4 petrol
Any spelling mistakes are the fault of spellchecker
Previous MG J2, CITROEN light 15 x 2 gone unfortunately
Present MERC 180e, RANGE ROVER L322, JAGUAR XJS, MERC 280SE, MG F, JAGUAR S-Type 6v 2003, jaguar s-type 8v 2004, Ford Cougar

It should be under BCM (body control module)

View the live data and see if anything is shown for servotronic current (amps) and servotronic pulse width modulation.

I've found this isn't a dead cert though, the best way would be to measure the voltage manually at the BCM with a multimeter.

You should see around 7-7.5 volts.

If this checks out OK then I'd begin to suspect the servotronic valve itself as faulty.

some time ago, i came across a guy wrecking his RR, same year as mine, i bought a heap of control units off him, all i could find.
so i thought i would change the bcm as it seems to be commonly called.
the part no on mine is YWC000922
the number on the one i bought YWC000921
our local free lance dealer, who is very well respected, hasn't got one, but told me it would work but i would need to get in calibrated.
i fitted it but it doesn't work properly
to get in calibrated at $220/h, its cheaper to get the correct one.
cant find one locally, its UK or nothing
so far, the power steering works fine, the door locks dont work at all with the fob RR 2005 4.4 petrol
Any spelling mistakes are the fault of spellchecker
Previous MG J2, CITROEN light 15 x 2 gone unfortunately
Present MERC 180e, RANGE ROVER L322, JAGUAR XJS, MERC 280SE, MG F, JAGUAR S-Type 6v 2003, jaguar s-type 8v 2004, Ford Cougar

Have you only just fitted the replacement BCM?

If so and it's fixed your power steering then that's great!

Sounds like you just need to sync the remote part of the key, have a search on here or YouTube for 'l322 key fob syncing'

I can't recall the exact procedure but I know mine wouldn't sync up until I fitted a new battery into the key.

So today I've spent hours out in the 'storm' removing the lower steering shaft to inspect the UJs.

Both upper and lower UJs move freely on both their axis.

The lower UJ isn't 'floppy' but easily moved by hand.

The sliding section was quite stiff when first compressed off the car but it freed up quickly and easy.

I've attached a couple of videos below, I would greatly appreciate any feedback!

I'm now lost as I've looked at all aspects of the system and seemily can't find anything wrong.

https://youtube.com/shorts/Ij4zt1JWgww?si=kGC2w6Suz1lYRPOk

https://youtube.com/shorts/S0UBJKX8JeQ?si=junMwN1Xxx8nIr0d

https://youtube.com/shorts/uAInBIglYvk?si=-XFsAPvblpKwB0cl