Great and clear instructions GGDR thank you - I went ahead and purchased the genuine replacement sensor LR022904 and Laser socket suggested only to find that the new part is 14mm (and not 13mm). I now am unsure about starting the removal as research suggests that the part number I have been supplied is correct for L322 4.4TDV8?
Anyone come across this updated Part No. with 14mm nut?

The socket I got was 13mm from laser The JLR part from Duckworth that arrived the Wednesday before Easter is genuine and fitted the 13mm socket. a 14mm socket is not a usual size?

Thanks Tinman. I suspect that I have been given the wrong new part as although it looks right it is most definitely has a 14mm chrome retaining nut and the Laser tool is correct for removal at 13mm.
What was your OEM part no. please?

Hi Part LLRO 52169 price £100.73 The nut was black not silver? Tip when you start work place a cloth below where your working it's a good safety net.
Good luck you will need it?

All now resolved thank you Tinman - the parts lad was advised by his workshop of the wrong sensor (given the inlet manifold one) but had the part no. you gave me in stock too - same price. Cheers!

Guys, I’m in the middle of this job, but unlike most of the success stories above, my car with 200,000 miles decided it would put up a better fight, and the nut sheared off. Even lots of soakings, it wouldn’t move. So, with a prospect of getting a right angle drill in there, and trying to drill and tap out the old remains and screw in a new one, I decided to come indoors, and sulk a bit, and few cups of Yorkshire tea…but had a little Eureka moment.
I got out the multi meter, measured the resistance of the new sensor, at about 250ohms. I then put it on the gas stove flame, and heated it till just going red hot at the tip, and the resistance changed to a max of about 670ohms… no higher. In. Fact it went to 670ohms well before it went red.
So wanting to clear my red ‘dpf full alarm’, I think I need the code to be cleared on my iid tool. AND a high temp reading on the sensor off it to trigger a regen. So ordered a resistor of 650ohms, EBay (10 for £2) which I hope to solder to the old plug harness, (cut wires) so that it thinks it’s nice and hot, and with other sensors coming up to temp on a run, it should trigger a regen. Just having a new one plugged in will clear the iid p040d code, but not fitted, engine will think it’s not hot, so will it allow a regen?
So I have today to fiddle about, and have decided to get some spray in chemical to fill the DPF with cleaner so it might break down the pressure which might be throwing the red triangle also.
Background. My car has 200.000. I bought it about 4 thousand ago with the p040 code, and it had a red alarm on the way back home, after buying it! Which was a 100 mile journey. That actually cleared half way home. And performance restored. In that 4 thousand miles i have regularly driven on motorways, and it’s never reappeared. Last week I had a day in London’s finest traffic and it triggered an amber, but before I could get out on the open road, and without stopping engine, it went red.
I have an iid tooland will investigate updating that today as well.
Will update if I can get the iid tool to see the temp at a falsely high enough temp. But what is the IID parameter I’m looking for? Bank? Sensor X etc. I even tried extending the sensor wires into the cabin, and having my son hold a ciggy lighter on the tip of new sensor, whilst I got some speed on a fast road. But didn’t know here to look for sensors temp etc. on the iid tool, and basically ran out of time.
I wonder if, just plugging in a 650 ohm resistor is the cure for this fault, as opposed to plugging in a new sensor, and having to get it hot… ie screwing in the sensor. I can’t see that having it showing ‘hot’ will allow a regen if other sensors aren’t up to temp also. It must be a combination. Here’s hoping eh?

Sorry to hear you’re having so much trouble.
What I’d say is that clearing the red and changing the sensor are unrelated jobs.

The duff sensor (usually) won’t prevent regeneration.
I’d personally not go with the foams.

What you might want to do is plug the new sensor into the loom and tuck it somewhere.

Then make sure you have the latest IID firmware and then you can do a forced regeneration.

Use you IID to monitor live values with your phone on a mount and watch for the temps to rise. Then fingers crossed the spot level will start to drop. Hopefully below 5g.

Use cruise control 50mph no need for high revs and make sure fuel level is well over a quarter tank.

Suggest an oil and filter change soon due to possible dilation and I also suggest you check the spot level weekly using IID live values. I actually set my B trip meter then I know roughly when it’s coming near 20g and then I stay on top of it.

It’s a Titan engine but the DPF needs managing and it’s not an engine for ‘normal’ people who are not enthusiast types.

Good luck, let us know. Cheers, Greg
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2011 Vogue SE 4.4 with lots of toys in Stornaway

just a little update. my car was stuck in red warning on the 'dpf full' alarm. I connected up the new sensor, and left it hanging, on the side of the engine. so not at any high exhaust temperature... and set my IID tool to 'engine' service test mode, and saw the 'forced regent' mode. car was warm, and I took the test, on a motorway. soot level was 31.5g. after around 5-10 mins cruising, it started to fall, very slowly. and about 20 mins later, it went to about 4g. I pulled off, and coasted to a stop, and by the time I parked. (went below the 25mph (green) speed, it was down to 0.3g. so a successful regeneration.. I haven't looked at the total number of successful regenerations, as I made a note of some numbers just before. but it seems that the IID tool ,can perform a forced regeneration, when in red. you get a menu, with red values, like speed and engine temp, which when green, starts the regen, and after about 10 mins, it starts to fall, and goes green at about 23grams, and continues to fall. I was very pleased, and although the red alarm triangle remained, until I switched off, it seems to have done the trick. on restart, all alams were gone, and the car was back to normal.
gotta love the IID tool. (version 3 software) the only annoying thing about it, is its right next to your foot when driving. (and the flap cover)

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Buy a short extension OBD cable with a 90 angle connector on one end. That will hold the flap and the iid will be well out of the way Plenty on eBay.
Mike G reg 2.5VM Vogue Portofino red 1991- 1999
V reg 2.5td P38 Rioja red 1999- 2006
53 reg td6 Vogue Oslo blue 2006- 2015
11 reg 4.4 TdV8 Vogue SE. Baltic blue 2015- date.
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic56162...tty+affair

Glad to hear it worked Cheers, Greg
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2011 Vogue SE 4.4 with lots of toys in Stornaway

It sounds like Pat has put the Forced Regen facility on general release now if you say software Version 3.
Mine is still on the Beta version, but maybe time for me to update to V3 ?, and you Greg.
Mike. G reg 2.5VM Vogue Portofino red 1991- 1999
V reg 2.5td P38 Rioja red 1999- 2006
53 reg td6 Vogue Oslo blue 2006- 2015
11 reg 4.4 TdV8 Vogue SE. Baltic blue 2015- date.
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic56162...tty+affair

Baltic Blue wrote:

Buy a short extension OBD cable with a 90 angle connector on one end. That will hold the flap and the iid will be well out of the way Plenty on eBay.
Mike

Hi guys.
Iam owner of L322 4,4TDV8 from Estonia.
Find this topics by googling trouble codes. Of course I have the same code, its long time presist on my car, since 2018 (check from history service list).
I have no any issues with my car, only this error code. But anyway, like GGDR says, I dont like its show me this code.
Our LR dealers and also other Land Rover repearers say about this code "its ok, drive like that. We can change the sensor, but it will not help, error will come back anyway.
Now I know why, they probably replace wrong sensor
So at the moment we actually dont know exactly what this sensor really do. But Iam pretty sure it play some kind of role in engine work.
Well, after reading this forum topic today morning, first what I doing, I disconnect the plug of this sensor and measure resistance. Zero. All clear, same problem.
I have left-side car, so not need to remove battery box (its on the other side) and also I didnt remove air box. Not needed, I got this plug opened quite well. I didnt remove anything, straight away start with the sensor. And when I find it...OMG, no space at all.
First, WD40. Then same , exhaust shield on the way. I only open one screw, behind the sensor and then just bend this aluminium shield away. Well, "just bend" means 2h work of course, it wasnt easy. Next, how to cut half of the sensor? Only way I found at home is a hand steel saw. So I saw it, it takes another 2h. Then attach regular 13mm socket with joint and try to turn. And...its just open Not easy, but open!
So main and most problematic work is done. At the moment I just tight it back on littlebit and just continue driving with disconnected plug. Zero resistance = no plug connected, so its the same as it was before. Thatwhy I didnt worry too much about what I gonna do if cut the nuts. I just continue driving without this sensor.
But now no way back, of course I will arrange new sensor and replace it. Special tool also probably needed.
Thanks all of You here guys!!!
To: GGDR. What You mean when say "And also fyi the sensor sits on a lip so it won’t fall into the manifold"? What kind of lip? What mean lip?
PS: sorry for my not the best english, its self-learned.