Thank you 154JON. Very helpful.

If you can, as searching the part numbers does not bring up any images i could find, would be great if you can take a pic, through the wheel arch to show the tops of your new knuckles, from what i can find, its looking like your new ones are still the same type of "smaller" heads.

There sure is a difference in the early knuckles to the later ones at the top. Much bigger "heads" and beefed up. LR must have known...2018 will have the bigger heads on the knuckles. Some 2016 i have seen also have them.

Now, this is mine, no cracking nothing but then again from the Russian's video i'm not in the vin range for the problem ones it shows.

This is a pic of my March 2014 L405 3.0L AB. Clear its the original small/shaved/problem head.

Click image to enlarge

From what Ive seen and understand from this thread, the crack occurs due to electrolytic/galvanic action between dissimilar metals causing corrosion which expands and then cracks the part. Would it not be a better solution to use the same metals? add grease to stop the corrosion? machine a spiral groove or similar to leave room for expansion?

It seems all attempts here are addressing the symptoms not the cause.

Just my 2c ! BMW i3 Electric Car
2012 Full Fat RR 4.4 TDV8 (now gone)
2006 VW Touareg 3.0 TDi V6

What is the VIN Range that have the problem? Not sure which Russian video you are referring to. SDV8 Vogue SE
SDV6 RR Sport
TDV6 Vogue SE
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HI number76

When i watched the Russian video i could not see any difference between the new and old knuckle he had it looks the same and could not understand if at any time he said there was any difference.Do you have the part numbers for the beefed up knuckles which you have seen fitted to 2016 cars and were they original parts fitted to the cars from factory or had the knuckles been changed.
Thanks

I don't think you will find that there is any difference in the Russian vid, as they would have just ordered the parts for that VIN number like most do, as probably just like the Red Lion did for yours. So they would be new units for that year.

If i had the part numbers i would have said for sure, sadly i don't.

And i don't know for sure if they are OEM from the factory, as i did some sleuth work on the walk to the Dentist, there were quite a few L405's and L494's parked along the route and people must have thought i was up to no good if anyone saw me lol, but i looked through every front wheel arch i could see!, the oldest was 2016 and new was 2020 and all had the bigger non-2014 style tops on their knuckles.

Also, spent some time going through eBay looking at different options on there, but only after i had checked what car they had been removed from to be as sure as possible, again they years i said above matched up.

So, from my point of view i am going with they made the tops bigger from 2016. Unless someone on here who is also willing to help & goes outside and looks at their standard 2015/16 maybe even 2017 and posts up some pics we wont know for sure until we have pics of stock RR's from the years i said up to 100% someone has the new top version fitted.

Or... if someone has just had a new one fitted, much like yourself, takes a pic and posts it up. Maybe then they will want the old stock sold before they release yet another new part number for a "big head" version to be fitted for a replacement etc.

I am going to go with one from a 2018 and have a good look, need to change the front discs and pads anyway so will take my knuckle off and try the 2018 on and see, what's to loose!. 2014 L405 3.0 V6 Autobiography Santorini Black 49k

The +5mm and -5mm versions are fitted for camber adjustment but IMO after-market camber adjusters would be a far better option.

Would a simple solution not be to split the joint at service time clean and refit? There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
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Last edited by ur20v on 4th Oct 2021 6:48am. Edited 1 time in total

Good Morning ur20v
Can i ask where you fould the information that Land Rover bolt part number KYG000230 has a special coating on and how removing the bolt removes the special coating, also if they knew there would be a problem with metal dissimilar contact why did they not use the same special coating on the balljoint surface where it meets the knuckle surface as that's wear the problem seems to be with the galvanic reaction causing the white substace .
Thanks

For reference, from the service manual, concerning replacement...

Click image to enlarge

Suspension, brake and steering fixings are advised to be replaced on almost all models...

It's not down to the coating on the bolt, that's fpr anti corrosion

Thanks for the advise about the bolt, as the garage i used is Land Rover approved with a fully approved Land Rover technician i can only asume that the bolt was inspected and found to be safe for reuse.

Often critical bolts are coated with sealant which are single use unless cleaned and sealant re-applied. Also some locking nuts destroy the thread of the bolt as they undo which then requires a new bolt and nut.

They are nylock nuts so the bolt threads will not have been damaged and the nylock nuts must have been fine for them to be reused but to be honest the old nuts and bolts anoy me as you can see them under the wheel arches against the nice clean knuckles when at standard height so they will be changed to nice clean new once, the good thing now is everyone that reads this topic will now know that if they change the knuckle the top nut and bolt that joins the knuckle to the top arm is not recomended by land Rover to be reused .
Thanks