Wow. 3.6 hours seems a lot. I assume it's a headache to get to it? 2010 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE

I suspect that the LR procedures require the compressor be removed but even then 3.6 hours is a lot. I recall that the one that was done without removing the compressor was done from underneath the vehicle. I might have a look at mine's compressor to see what access to the valve might be like.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l322-range-rove...put-2.html

If paying someone to R&R the compressor to replace a sticky valve then perhaps better off in the long term having a new, later version compressor fitted.

So, just to confirm, these sticky valves are actually in the compressor or is it a separate unit?

I'm still trying to work out the best place to get mine looked at - an aircon specialist or another indy.

It's really annoying. Mine usually works well after a couple of minutes but only if the engine is completely cold. A warm start always results in no air con which is rather annoying in this heat. 2010 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE

Yes, the valve is in the rear of the compressor.

kooky_guy,

this is our compresor:

Not driven mine for 3 months and it's showing exactly these symptoms. I'll see if a bit more usage clears the sticky flaps. 2017 5.0 Autobiography Supercharged
2005 Merc SL350
2005 Disco HSE 2.7 oil burner

Unnecessary quote removed

 2012 TDV8 Vogue SE 4.4

Thanks Nino. Very helpful pictures! 2010 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE

Are there any details of how to actually change this ?
How is it held in ?

I assume I dont stand a chance of getting this done by LR outside of warranty, so tempted to buy the part and give it a go myself.

If I do, I will post back how I get on. Too many toys, not enough time

2011 4.4 TDV8 AB Black

John, search youtube for senden compressor valve removal, valve is held in place by snap ring -

I took a look at my compressor earlier, and was starting to think my compressor might be fecked.
This is because it appears as if the clutch never disengages, even with a/c off and ignition off.

Having done a bunch of searching and reading, I discovered these compressors don't have a conventional magnetic clutch.

Here is a link to explain how they work, and what the valve does:


This helps to explain why it may partially work, but not fully cool.

I also tried to see what access is like.
To say it's a b@stard to get to would be a bit of an understatement.
I think it may be possible to get to from the bottom, but needs the serpentine belt removing, and the compressor unbolting from the block.
I will have a better look at the weekend. Too many toys, not enough time

2011 4.4 TDV8 AB Black

John w wrote:

Are there any details of how to actually change this ?
How is it held in ?

I assume I dont stand a chance of getting this done by LR outside of warranty, so tempted to buy the part and give it a go myself.

If I do, I will post back how I get on.

I've just had my compressor replaced and it's completely fixed the issue, thank goodness.

It was suggested by the Indy that since it was such a big job to remove the compressor in any case, I would be better off paying a bit extra to replace it rather than just the valve as that would give me a 2 years parts and labour warranty. He suggested that just replacing the valve might not be a long lasting solution...

Weirdly, it seems to be running much better since it was replaced too.

But it was much more expensive than I expected. 2010 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE

Glad to hear its fixed

Oddly mine continues to sort-of work. It also gets much cooler if I go round tight right handers, so I find myself searching for round abouts

I have a picture on my phone of the compressor from underneath the car (will try to upload it). It looks like a b@stard to get to, but I can see the solenoid. I think it could be possible to get it out without having to fully remove the compressor.
I am holding off at present until I have identified my oil leak, so I can deal with both together.
I also need to figure out what the other pipes are around it, so I know what to remove to gain access.

Incidentally, I plugged my OBD tool in last week and was able to monitor the various settings. It is clear to see the compressor is making pressure, and when you switch off the A/C the pressure drops away.
I have a permanent failure on the ambient air temp sensor, which I found on the near side behind the radiator (seen other threads on this, its the same as a bmw part, and only affects things when on auto apparently). Too many toys, not enough time

2011 4.4 TDV8 AB Black