That’s a cracking result then. Another known issue....

Not sure I’d be comfortable doing all that myself though.

 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8

Previous cars :
2003 Range Rover Vogue TD6
1999 Discovery Td5 ES
1995 BMW M5 3.8 6 speed
1992 Range Rover 3.9 Efi Vogue
1992 BMW M5 3.8
1988 BMW 735i SE
1989 Ford Sierra XR4x4 2.9i
1981 Ford Fiesta Supersport

Well done! Glad I got someone else to do mine though! 2010 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE

Nino,
I have managed to upload all but 2 pictures to my gallery:
http://www.fullfatrr.com/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=2756

I will make smaller versions of the other 2 and try them again.
It includes a picture of what the weather was like

Thanks guys.
If someone can build it, I can take it apart
Whether I can put it back together again is questionable, according to some

It isnt really that difficult, just fiddly.
Anyone with a decent set of sockets and spanners should be able to manage it.

From memory, the tools I used were :

1/4" drive:
7mm socket for jubilee clips
8mm socket for some bolts
10mm socket for most other bolts, including sump covers
ratchet, and extension

3/8" drive:
10mm socket
13mm (I think) socket for aircon compressor bolts
ratchet, short / medium / long extensions (mine have shaped ends that allow sockets to be slightly off line)

1/2" drive:
22mm socket and breaker bar, for accessory belt tensioner

10mm / 13mm ratchet head spanners, for aircon pipe across front of sump
13mm L shaped socket spanner, for the rear aircon compressor bolt

Circlip pliers
Wide bladed screwdriver (for removing the front trim to get the front sump panel off)
narrow bladed screwdriver (to lift clip on connectors to help when removing them).
brake cleaner (to clean around the PCV before removing it) Too many toys, not enough time

2011 4.4 TDV8 AB Black

This is why I couldn't do it in the garage...

John w, is that 350 YZ ?

Nino, 2012 TDV8 Black Edition
2000 Disco. TD5
1975 series III

This should go into Wiki RR L322 TDV8 4.4 SE 2019 to present
RR L322 TDV8 4.4 - 2016 to present
Discovery 2 TD5 - 2010 to 2016
Discovery 1 - 2000 to 2010

Just got around to doing this job ………….. it's very challenging access ………….. but doable. I wouldn't want to do it again!

and yes ………. it worked, instant aircon.

I decided to go the whole hog and purchased a used car aircon servicing machine ........... I now have lots of friends who's car aircon systems need a regas. Actually, it is recommended that you have your aircon serviced every 2 years anyway. Removes the gas and oil, cleans/drys the refrigerant, removes any water vapour from the system and checks for leaks. It then recharges the system with dry gas, new oil and to the correct weight.

I think we all guessed at £1000 for a new compressor fitted and the system regassed ............... £75 for the solenoid valve from island 4x4 and a bit of effort .............. and a second hand aircon machine ............. small business opprtunity if another hot summer is coming our way!

FIXED!!!!!!!! RR L322 TDV8 4.4 SE 2019 to present
RR L322 TDV8 4.4 - 2016 to present
Discovery 2 TD5 - 2010 to 2016
Discovery 1 - 2000 to 2010

What do you mean, you wouldn’t want to do it again?

How I gonna get mine done?

Wished I could do it like that though...

Well done

 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8

Previous cars :
2003 Range Rover Vogue TD6
1999 Discovery Td5 ES
1995 BMW M5 3.8 6 speed
1992 Range Rover 3.9 Efi Vogue
1992 BMW M5 3.8
1988 BMW 735i SE
1989 Ford Sierra XR4x4 2.9i
1981 Ford Fiesta Supersport

So it looks like I may have this issue, to the T. I thought I had low freon and tried to add some yesterday. The low side went a bit high and the high side stayed low. That prompted me to come to the forums. That's how I found this.

Has anyone done this on a 5.0L SC petrol engine? I see much of the input has been from v8 TDI folks, but wondering how different the procedure is with the 5.0 engine. 2012 Range Rover Autobiography
91 BMW 850i 6 speed
94 BMW 850 CSi 6speed
Supercharged Tbirds
Audi S8, Audi V8 Quattro

Having had the whole compressor replaced a year ago, supposedly with the new improved valve, mine has started exhibiting the same symptoms again. Just had it back in to the indy that replaced it and it is indeed the compressor assembly (presumably the valve).

Unfortunately, as its a LR warranty issue, it apparently has to go into a main dealer to double check and replace. Not very happy about it. 2010 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE

Wow, so they don’t work for that long once fixed.  2011 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8

Previous cars :
2003 Range Rover Vogue TD6
1999 Discovery Td5 ES
1995 BMW M5 3.8 6 speed
1992 Range Rover 3.9 Efi Vogue
1992 BMW M5 3.8
1988 BMW 735i SE
1989 Ford Sierra XR4x4 2.9i
1981 Ford Fiesta Supersport

It's so discouraging. I'll have to pull my service history but I recall the previous owner had the compressor in mine replaced, too. 2012 Range Rover Autobiography
91 BMW 850i 6 speed
94 BMW 850 CSi 6speed
Supercharged Tbirds
Audi S8, Audi V8 Quattro

kooky_guy wrote:

Having had the whole compressor replaced a year ago, supposedly with the new improved valve, mine has started exhibiting the same symptoms again. Just had it back in to the indy that replaced it and it is indeed the compressor assembly (presumably the valve).

Unfortunately, as its a LR warranty issue, it apparently has to go into a main dealer to double check and replace. Not very happy about it.

I can ask, but it was just the genuine LR one. 2010 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE

I have just replaced the valve on mine.

Same symptoms as everybody else, driving over bumps seemed to help which make sense if the valve is sticking.
No problems since replacement.

The instructions on the forum were invaluable every time I got stuck reading the forum gave me the answer.

Thanks everybody and especially John W.

A few pointers from my experience.

1. I do not think it is not worth trying to replace the valve with the compressor still in the car. You have to remove so much just to move the compressor that it is better to take it out and replace the valve on the bench. I removed the nearest belt idler pulley and tied the power steering pump out of the way, it comes out quite easily.

2. You spend a lot of time underneath working with you head near the NS front wheel looking up at the compressor and turbo pipes so make sure you have positioned your car for good access before you make it immobile.

3. Print out John W’s pictures and write up so you have them with you.

Picture below shows the access for the compressor going back in.