Have you tried using one of these http://www.maplin.co.uk/automotive-current-tester-217879

Identifies the circuit draining your car battery
Available for mini or maxi fuses
Provides an easy-to-read LCD display of the circuit's performance
Simply plugs into standard blade type fuse holder

No, i did'nt. But I've done many drain tests from the earth on the battery, seeing no drain.
Would this tool see a drain on the fuse in this case?
Also, to test it I guess I'd have to lock myself in the car for half an hour and then begin the tests (not a prob given the time already wasted). 2008 TDV8 VOGUE - Buckingham Blue on Sand

Ibartsimp wrote:

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Would this tool see a drain on the fuse in this case?
).

I get the overall functionning but why would I see a drain in the fuses I don't see (with all fuses in) when testing the drain from battery -ve to earth jump stud? 2008 TDV8 VOGUE - Buckingham Blue on Sand

Useful little device, I use one.
You need the maxi version to fit the standard size fuses in a RR.
You don't need to shut yourself in the car to use it, just lay it on the passenger seat whilst connected to a fuse and then you can shut the car, wait for it to go to sleep and then read the display thro the side window.

yes but to test the fuses individually one after the other I need to be in the car and do the swaps, but that's anecdotic. real question is above.

Quote:

why would I see a drain in the fuses I don't see (with all fuses in) when testing the drain from battery -ve to earth jump stud?

You wouldn't.
It's just another way of measuring the same thing.

Now I agree I still have to see a constant drain after the car's been locked for 30 mins, then that's a great investigation tool (I've seen equivalents that can be linked to the ohmmeter). 2008 TDV8 VOGUE - Buckingham Blue on Sand

Well I still have a drain, even with fuses 22 & 49 and venture cam off
Went from 12.55 to 11.8 in 24 hours
Will indeed try an inside the car test on fuses... 2008 TDV8 VOGUE - Buckingham Blue on Sand

You're not having a lot of luck.
Couple of things I would do.

Disconnect the red feed cable to the rear fuse board and leave disconnected and see what happens to the battery.
This means all the bits served from the rear fuseboard will be disconnected instead of removing fuses individually.
Be careful when you remove the cable it will have 12V on it so don't touch anything with the end.
Also wrap the end of the cable with cloth or similar to stop it touching anything overnight.

Second, remove the glove box light bulb and the 3 loadspace light bulbs and leave out overnight just to see if you happen to have a faulty light switch causing lights you can't see to come on.

I'm now running out of ideas fast.

Well, let's say I have one f.. hard drain to locate. The rest is fine and I'm very pleased to discover that I have a venture cam.
Now if I could have a reliable car, things would even be better
I'm not sure to understand where the

Quote:

the red feed cable to the rear fuse board

In the rear loadspace side compartment, opposite side to radio etc.
Disconnect the large red wire in the centre of the picture.
And be careful with it.

I have the same issue and will try this tonight. The easiest tell for me as to if the battery has drained is that the screen takes a few mins to come on after startup.

Ok, I had not detailed look at this part. Now a few questions arise, as usual
1. I suppose it's the lead you"re talking about. Will I still be able to open (and close) the load area once removed (with the remote key for instance)
2,3,4 & 5. What are these pending plugs? Still trying to understand why my car has the SatNav menu and if these bits are related...

Last, why haven't you asked me to mess with the fuses in this area of the car?
Put a link to the image since I made it huge (detailed) on purpose

Click image to enlarge

Sorry you are correct, if you remove the cable you won't be able to lock or possibly open the tailgate.
I thought all the central locking was fused at the front of the car which appears not to be the case.
Although as removing the cable from the fuseboard means it won't lock presumably you could still open it.
Never mentioned the rear fuseboard before as you still have about another 50 fuses to work thro on front fuse board.

Number 1 on picture is cable to remove if you wish to, the alternative is pulling fuses individually.
If you wish to remove fuses I will check which fuse serves the tailgate locks.

Number 2 is supply to tow bar sockets.

Numbers 3,4 and 5 no idea what they are for.