Hello folks!
Are you ready for some Russian words? I already tried to find the answers to my questions on the Russian forums, groups, and workshops but now I have only assumptions about what I can do. "We can try to replace this, or try to replace that. Without any guarantees". I'm stuck.

I became an owner 2007 L322 TDV8 a few months ago and was faced with some problems with the fuel system. I've replaced a fuel filter, a high-pressure fuel pump, and a few injectors. The battery is fine. I have a problem with an ignition lock switch, the wheel column doesn't lock.
But some annoying faults down below there are still with the car. When I drive a car I've got a bunch of errors like "Engine System Fault", "HDC Fault", "Gear Box Fault", "Parking Brake Inactive", "Suspension Lowered", and so on. When I restart the engine I can keep the ride before the next faults. I have replaced the ECU module already because of that. But it's doesn't help.
Here is a DTC fault codes from SDD (here is the translation for you).

U0401-94 ATCM 129 919 km Invalid data received – engine control module (ECM)
U0416-94 ATCM 129 919 km Invalid data received – vehicle dynamics control module
U0402-94 ATCM 129 919 km Invalid data received – transmission control module (TCM)
U0403-94 ATCM 129 919 km Invalid data received – transfer box control module

U0401-68 VDM 129 911 km Invalid data received – engine control module (ECM)
U0401-00 PBM 129 911 km Invalid data received – engine control module (ECM)
control module
U2023-86 TCM 129 911 km Fault received from external node
U0416-86 RLM 129 911 km Invalid data received – vehicle dynamics

The main condition for that is a uniform riding on a road with a constant speed. The various mileages between the faults: or one kilometer or a few days and hundreds of kilometers between it. Sometimes I can get the faults after the acceleration when RPM lowering. Sometimes with the acceleration, seems like the gearbox can't choose the correct gear.

Buuut... When I use gearbox in a manual mode, not just a sport mode, but manual. It seems my Land Rover works perfectly. Maybe it's just a period without faults, I don't know.

Does someone have thoughts about my faults combinations? What the main DTC code? I think it's the problem with an engine wire harness. But in which area? I'm not in the mood to check the whole wire harness and every connector, it's not productive. Maybe it's a kind of problem with the PCB of the transfer box or some issue with the PCB of the gearbox? Any thoughts? Also, I worry about the "P117E-00 PCM" code in "Unknown events" down below in the attachment.

I appreciate your attention! Hope we can find a way to solve the problem. I like that car but this problem makes me disappointed.

Click image to enlarge

I would start with a new battery and check the alternator output... if battery voltage is not correct loads of codes keep coming up... I had loads of codes from different systems but when I replaced my alternator and battery all the codes went.

Could also be the steering angle sensor, given you already have issues with the lock.... .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Thank you for the answers!

It's a good idea to check the battery with the alternator. Voltage, current, leaking current, etc. The previous owner installed the AGM battery instead original WET battery. And I'm sure that nobody hadn't reset the BMS (if it's installed in our cars).
Does anybody know the correct voltage digits for the alternator on the idle? About 14,6-14,8 volts?

To Joe90
Good point, but I never had a fault when I turn the wheel or something like that. I'll keep it in mind anyway.

Well, I have to say something about my alternator.
When I make the cold start of the engine, I see 11.8 V on the battery. Then the voltage grows up to 14.4-14.6 V. After 30-40 minutes voltage goes down to 13.6 Volts and holds on to that level till the end of my road trip.
I believe the alternator is well. The next step it's the battery itself.

Hey Vadim L. Did you ever find the answer to your problem??

Hello mate! I have sold this car last year with no heavy issues that I’ve described. But the new owner says he has the same errors. In my opinion here is the problem with the fuel system at all. Maybe it’s a good idea to check every inch from the low-pressure pump to injectors through the fuel lines and high-pressure pump.

i would go into each module with your code scanner and look for faults there.
these are all U codes and one item in one of those modules can trigger all of them.

for me recently i had all the ABS and traction control and Hill decent modules come up (All U Codes), when i checked each module i found in the ABS module there was a C code for ABS Speed sensor.
replaced the speed sensor and all codes went into history as soon as i moved the car forward. no problems since.  2012 Vogue 4.4 TDV8 - Current
2014 Navara V6 - Gone
2004 Vogue TD6 - Gone
Grand Cherokee - Gone
Discovery V8 (LPG) - Gone
Discovery TD5 - Gone

Hi Vadim. And everyone else who needs help with this problem. Thanks for getting back so quickly. The reason I asked, was to actually help you and any other poor sole that "like me" Has spent a small fortune on this car trying to fix this unique problem. I followed all the forums and replaced battery, both MAF sensors, both MAP sensors, brake light switch, fuel filter. We took it to a garage last week because it got so bad it would not even start. Garage said turbo has gone but we knew it wasn't. The car was in the same spot as when we left it, it was obvious they didn’t want to get involved. I was convinced it was a single problem causing ~ LOSS OF POWER, ENGINE SYSTEM FAULT ON DASH, SUSPENSION LOWERING AND COMING UP FAULTY, HDC FAULT, TRANSMISSION FAULT, ALL TERRAIN FAULT, PARKING SENSOR FAULT ETC - ETC - ETC. It got so bad, the fault code reader was coming up with all manor of faults, it even said ALL my lights were faulty. ANYWAY, Lads and lasses, I decided to bin the fault code reader and chuck it in the back of the car and go back to basics and with a friends help, physically look and feel our way around the engine so you must first pop off the big plastic cover on top of the engine. And I am glad and pleased to say we found the cause of this problem, and you won’t believe it when I tell you. One tiny wire shorting out, causing ALL these” sort of” unrelated faults happening, because the short was just spiking the whole system. Basically, the short is located in the wiring loom for number 7 and number 8 injectors. The short is precisely on number 7 injector pipe. The location if you’re not sure is when you are facing the front of the car the right side from front to back is bank 5,6,7,8. The cause! There is a big metal cover that covers the injectors and leak off pipes. You must remove this cover, it’s a bit awkward but not hard. Locate number 7 injector pipe and the loom in directly on top, lift it and cut the mesh surrounding the loom and take a very close look ( pics before and after enclosed) My guess is the metal plate put pressure on the loom. The really strange thing is, the injector pipe does have a type of insulator around it, BUT! Only part of it, almost like a zebra crossing. So, the loom was rubbing on the uninsulated part of the pipe. I guess it is really hit and miss where the loom touches. Anyway guys, I hope this helps you. Just one thing though, I found the loom on the other bank was tight too so I stuck a bit of rubber between the big metal plate and the loom, so best to check all the injector wiring. I would just like to thank my mates brother John Ade for finding it, he is the Poirot of finding faults and believe it or not, it only took him just 10 minutes to find it, but there again, he is a genius. Oh! By the way, fault code reader has found not faults 😊

Great suggestions here. I am researching a similar issue now too on a car I just bought. I will definitely check the injector loom now. 2007 L322 TDV8 3.6 Vogue SE
2006 L322 S/C 4.2
2003 L322 TD6 Vogue with Facelift conversion
2000 Discovery 2 TD5 ES. Daily
1990 RRC 3.9 V8 LPG
Too many Jaguars!

j7wal wrote:

Hi Vadim. And everyone else who needs help with this problem. Thanks for getting back so quickly. The reason I asked, was to actually help you and any other poor sole that "like me" Has spent a small fortune on this car trying to fix this unique problem. I followed all the forums and replaced battery, both MAF sensors, both MAP sensors, brake light switch, fuel filter. We took it to a garage last week because it got so bad it would not even start. Garage said turbo has gone but we knew it wasn't. The car was in the same spot as when we left it, it was obvious they didn’t want to get involved. I was convinced it was a single problem causing ~ LOSS OF POWER, ENGINE SYSTEM FAULT ON DASH, SUSPENSION LOWERING AND COMING UP FAULTY, HDC FAULT, TRANSMISSION FAULT, ALL TERRAIN FAULT, PARKING SENSOR FAULT ETC - ETC - ETC. It got so bad, the fault code reader was coming up with all manor of faults, it even said ALL my lights were faulty. ANYWAY, Lads and lasses, I decided to bin the fault code reader and chuck it in the back of the car and go back to basics and with a friends help, physically look and feel our way around the engine so you must first pop off the big plastic cover on top of the engine. And I am glad and pleased to say we found the cause of this problem, and you won’t believe it when I tell you. One tiny wire shorting out, causing ALL these” sort of” unrelated faults happening, because the short was just spiking the whole system. Basically, the short is located in the wiring loom for number 7 and number 8 injectors. The short is precisely on number 7 injector pipe. The location if you’re not sure is when you are facing the front of the car the right side from front to back is bank 5,6,7,8. The cause! There is a big metal cover that covers the injectors and leak off pipes. You must remove this cover, it’s a bit awkward but not hard. Locate number 7 injector pipe and the loom in directly on top, lift it and cut the mesh surrounding the loom and take a very close look ( pics before and after enclosed) My guess is the metal plate put pressure on the loom. The really strange thing is, the injector pipe does have a type of insulator around it, BUT! Only part of it, almost like a zebra crossing. So, the loom was rubbing on the uninsulated part of the pipe. I guess it is really hit and miss where the loom touches. Anyway guys, I hope this helps you. Just one thing though, I found the loom on the other bank was tight too so I stuck a bit of rubber between the big metal plate and the loom, so best to check all the injector wiring. I would just like to thank my mates brother John Ade for finding it, he is the Poirot of finding faults and believe it or not, it only took him just 10 minutes to find it, but there again, he is a genius. Oh! By the way, fault code reader has found not faults 😊