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GGDR

Member Since: 26 Nov 2016
Location: London
Posts: 3542

2011 Range Rover Vogue SE TDV8 Stornoway Grey

P040D-00 (2F) EGR temperature sensor replacement

Following my exploits here: https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic48131.html

The topic of error code P040D-00 (2F) and it's fix has been a dark-arts area and if you read the above you'll understand why.

Having finally nutted it, I wanted to write up a guide on changing the NS exhaust manifold temp sensor.

This is a confirmed fix for this error:

P040D-00 (2F) Exhaust gas recirculation temperature sensor A

Click image to enlarge

This error is common on the 2011-2012 4.4TDV8 L322 and the early SDV8 L405s. At some point the part was revised and that seems to have dealt with it. The part below is the revised part fyi.

You can read in the above thread the full journey to discovery, but in summary the main trap that many including some indy mechanics, (possibly even some MD’s) fall into is that the error code says EGR sensor. So they head there. But Sensor A is nowhere near the EGR, it’s on the NS exhaust manifold. This has led to many changing the sensor on the EGR (sensor B), having the error return and people writing this off as a "ghost" code. So they leave this error present under the "they all do that" category. Others have changed their whole EGR. Possibly unnecessarily.

This is a hard hard job due to (lack of) access.. But this guide will make it possible, and take less time than I did. I had a ton of trial and error. It was interesting to read a while back that CamTechCraig got this done on his 405 by a MD and they screwed it up. So size nines at the ready, let’s get started:

Part, Tools and Prep

You will need a replacement sensor - this part:

You’ll also need a special tool. There are two available, one is JLR (12-sided) and the other is by Laser tools (6-sided). I’d strongly recommend the Laser tools one as the 6-on-6 reduces the risk of rounding. More on that in a minute.

Laser tools Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Socket Jaguar & Land Rover
Part No. 6850
https://www.lasertools.co.uk/product/6850

Other tools:

You'll need a Flexi Head Ratchet handle (I got this one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/112745398503 )

You'll also need a specific combination of 13mm socket with an extension.
This needs to be more or less 115mm long.
I achieved this with:
1 x 3/8 drive 13mm socket
1 x 3/8 to 1/2 adaptor
1 x 1/2 drive 75mm short extension bar

IMPORTANT: I tried many many combinations and strongly suggest you order this combo as it works in “the hole” with the Flexi Head ratchet handle. EDIT: This worked for me however a couple of Others have reported a very long extension bar can work too.

WD40 with a cobbled long delivery tube. I used small-bore drinking straws 3-4 connected together. Like this:

8mm ring spanner, best to use a ratchet version.

Suggest dropping the car into access mode at this point. It will increase your reach down into ‘the hole’/

Step one:

Locate and identify the sensor. It’s on the NS exhaust manifold. For now I’d not remove anything. You just need to sight it. It’s down a kind of vertical shaft space. “the hole”. You can get one hand in there, but not two. You can look with a torch however when one hand/arm is down there, you can no longer see down the hole. Advance warning: the hole will drive you mad.

The hole is down here where the yellow arrow points:

This last pic from the WM shows the socket on the sensor.

Once you can see you need to get it lubed. Feed down your long tube of WD40 (or preferred penetrating oil) and douse. This is not a once only task, my STRONG RECOMMENDATION is to repeat daily for as many days as you want. Doing this is money in the bank. And BTW driving / heating the engine won’t affect this process.

Why is this important? Be aware there the risk with this job of rounding the sensor nut. ] If it rounds, like another member you will have to replace the exhaust manifold. And that's a dark place you don't want to go to. So you want to do everything you can to reduce this risk. As far as I can say, there are two things you can do to mitigate this risk:

- One is the regular, repeated pre-spraying with WD40 over many days.
- The other is to use the 6-sided tool.

The sensor takes extreme heat sitting there on the exhaust manifold. My sensor, baked in to it’s home for over 100,000 miles came loose almost immediately thanks to having daily WD40 sprays for a week. Others have not been so lucky. If you round the nut you have a HUGE job of removing the exhaust manifold.

Step Two
Remove air box.
Remove battery surround
Feel along the cable from the sensor, unclipping it as you will feel/follow the cable to find the connector towards the back of the engine. Undo connector.
Spray WD40 on the sensor again.

Step Three
The Exhaust Shields. These are bastards. There are two that overlap right over the sensor. The problem is that they have been designed poorly and whilst have an access opening around the sensor, the opening is just a little too small to get a socket over the nut and they have to be completely moved/bent out of the way before you can get a socket on the sensor. This pic shows the two shields in place. Ignore blue text in image.

Click image to enlarge

FYI I wasted many hours trying to figure a way of getting that opening just a bit bigger but trust me, you have to get the shield out of the way completely.

Their overlapping layout doesn't really show well in the above pic so I did a quick diagram:

You need to feel for two retaining bolts 8mm on the heat sheild going from the sensor heading towards the firewall. Use a ratchet ring spinner to undo them. You can’t see them, you have to find and undo them by feel. It’s also a one hand job that’s why the ratchet ring spanner is best, it reduces the risk of those bolts falling - I kept one finger over the head of the bolt while undoing. One bolt is 25-30mm right below the sensor (but completely out of sight) and the second you’ll have to feel along the shield towards the firewall until you feel it. You'll be doing this all completely blind.

Here's another angle of the heat shield (you can't see it like this ever):

Click image to enlarge

Once these two upper bolts are off (I only undid the top two) you can bend and swivel the shield(s) off and away from the sensor. I bent mine quite a lot but they’re aluminium and bent back all fine after.

Now's a good time to spray WD40 on the sensor again.

Step Four.
Snip the cable to the old sensor right on the end nearest the sensor end with some cutters. You’ll be binning this sensor anyway and it means you can fit the socket on and rotate it 360°.

Step Five;
Ok now you can fit the 13mm socket onto and over the sensor nut. You should feel with your fingers that the socket’s gone down right over the hex faces of the nut. Check again. You want to be absolutely sure it't engaged down fully on the nut before you start pulling on it anti-clock. You can leave the 13mm socket in place and attach your 115mm long extension combo, and the flex-head ratchet and go ahead and try a bit of a turn of the nut. With daily WD40 for a week prior, mine cracked loose easily. I think garages would not be able to practically afford the long WD40 prep I was able to do and I am guessing that is why they hit problems.

Just a note here, you don't use the special socket for removal because it may open up having an open side.

If it cracks loose then keep turning and once the nut is would all the way off, the sensor, with a wiggle the sensor should pull out. I mistakenly broke my sensor stem and I had a few hours trying to extract the actual sensor once the nut was off. So learn from me and clipping the cable as above will leave a stem and that is what you need.

Hang onto the nut btw. And also fyi the sensor sits on a lip so it won’t fall into the manifold.

Step Six:
There’ll be a bit or crud around the thread in the sensor hole so you need to clean the thread out. I used pipe cleaners, and also a little bale of 5-6 cotton buds. Insert into the sensor hole and wind anti-clock. Repeat until you feel it’s clean. Now take the nut (just the nut) from the old sensor and you want to wind that into the thread in and out to make sure it’s clean. The reason for this, and the cleaning is that if you cross-thread the new sensor you will be in as bad a place as rounding the nut removing the old one. Hand winding that in an out is recommended. Clean again if need be.

Step Seven:
Carefully feed the new sensor into the hole. With that thread cleaned, you should be able to hand wind that nut in a fair bit. You want to be 100000% sure it’s engaged on the thread correctly. Even with a clean thread, mine was fiddly to engage on the thread. Once you’re sure, Grab the special socket and this should allow you to wind it in by hand another few turns. Oh, and if you want to put a little anti-sieze grease on the thread, it’s a nice idea for the next guy.

The special socket has a slot to accommodate the cable. The cable means you can only safely make about one-eighth turns on the ratchet. So take your time and check the cable is not twisting after each eighth turn. You’ll need to lift the socket off the sensor nut, rotate it backwards, re-check the cable is not trapped and turn again. So it's not quick but doing this slowly and carefully will prevent damage to the cable. Repeat many times until tight.

The torque setting is 32nm but challenge is can you get a torque wrench in there? Not likely. Suggest you turn another nut to that torque and ‘feel match’. Not ideal but the only ratchet arm I could get in the hole was the flexi-head.

Step Eight:
Re-fit everything else:
Clip the cable on it’s route to the connector and then plug it in.

Re-fit heat shields. you’ll need to carefully bend the sheilds to get them back into position kind of over the sensor, then bend them flat. Re-fit the two 8mm bolts. Take your time. Rushing can lead to dropping one of the 8mm bolts and good luck finding it! Refit air box and battery surround.

Fire up the engine, and the IIDTool and run an error scan.
All being well you’ll get this:

Click image to enlarge

Kettle on.

Hopefully these all make sense.
Fire me any questions if you need.

Good luck! Cheers, Greg
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
2011 Vogue SE 4.4 with lots of toys in Stornaway

Last edited by GGDR on 14th Jun 2020 6:55am. Edited 18 times in total

8th Feb 2019 11:45pm

Joe90

Member Since: 29 Apr 2010
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 6407

Nice work ggdr

Have a rest now...

Is there one on the other side as well .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

9th Feb 2019 12:44am

mpirie

Member Since: 26 Jun 2012
Location: In the Highlands
Posts: 898

2013 Range Rover Autobiography SDV8 Luxor

Well done ggdr, i'm sure Stan will find a slot in the Wiki for this fix.

Mike

9th Feb 2019 8:55am

mm289

Member Since: 11 Mar 2016
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 207

2011 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 V8 Ipanema Sand

Awesome write up GGDR, well done for the right up and for the perseverance on the original thread/issue which I have been following

I have this error code so at some point...... I am tempted to phone my local MD and see what they quote for the job though!

Cheers,

Paul. 2011 TDV8 AB
2006 TD6 AB (Gone to Wales)

9th Feb 2019 10:08am

stan
Site Moderator

Member Since: 13 Jul 2010
Location: a moderate moderated moderator moderating moderately in moderation
Posts: 35248

a lot of work has gone into this write up and duly wiki'fied , thank you greg ..

Last edited by stan on 9th Feb 2019 10:48am. Edited 1 time in total

9th Feb 2019 10:32am

Bushy30

Member Since: 03 Jun 2018
Location: Oxfordshire
Posts: 1098

2011 Range Rover Vogue SE TDV8 Galway Green

Genius Sir Current: 2011 FFRR Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8
Previous: -
2004 FFRR Vogue 4.4 V8 with LPG
1997 P38 4.0 SE with LPG
1997 P38 4.6 Vogue with LPG

9th Feb 2019 10:44am

mpirie

Member Since: 26 Jun 2012
Location: In the Highlands
Posts: 898

I wonder if there are any JLR main dealer "mechanics/technicians" who use the information and techniques collected on this forum in their daily repairs and servicing?

This is a valuable resource for the members and potentially JLR.

Mike

9th Feb 2019 12:45pm

GGDR

Member Since: 26 Nov 2016
Location: London
Posts: 3542

Thanks for your kind words chaps.

This did take me a LOT of research and detective work even before I stated the job to get to the above fix and instructions. That sensor does not come up as a readable value on the IIDTool and it's not documented/labelled int eh workshop manual as an EGR sensor.

So it's somewhat invisible to the normal channels of checking (IID and workshop manual) and there was no way of confirming replacing that sensor would get rid of the error code. This was also set against a strong feeling from many that this error code is a 'ghost code'.

On the practical side i.e. doing the job - all my instructions are the quick answer to so much trial and error throughout every step I've listed. Trial and error of access, methods, and tools.

There was also an element of 'it can't be done' gee-ing me on to prove it could be done - and it would work. Hey beats taking up chess as a hobby right ?

Many thanks too to all who helped in the process throughout the 15-odd pages on the other thread. Cheers, Greg
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
2011 Vogue SE 4.4 with lots of toys in Stornaway

10th Feb 2019 12:07pm

DrRob

Member Since: 16 Apr 2015
Location: Petersfield, Hampshire
Posts: 4298

2011 Range Rover Vogue SE TDV8 Buckingham Blue

I've enquired to Rob at Rovertune about doing this. I have a reasonable quote and will be booking it in sometime in March. I'm not going to post the exact figure as that would be unfair to Rob but it starts with a number that rhymes with tree... Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
--------------------------------------------------

14th Feb 2019 3:27pm

GGDR

Member Since: 26 Nov 2016
Location: London
Posts: 3542

Just a note to clarify that these instructions relate to the L322.

Although the sensor replacement is essentially the same, the engine bay / access on the 405 is a little different.

Member Tore2ls just did his and you can see how he did it using different tools. He also removed the fuel filter:

ttps://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/post505480.html#505480

Well done Tore2ls
. Cheers, Greg
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
2011 Vogue SE 4.4 with lots of toys in Stornaway

17th Feb 2019 4:29pm

j9ffy

Member Since: 27 Mar 2018
Location: Indre
Posts: 33

2011 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.4 V8 Santorini Black

GGDR - thanks a ton for this. Not only has your excellent research helped me to identify the underlying issue that generates the "mystery" fault code, but your huge determination to complete the job and share your experience has helped me enormously. Even with this, it's still taken me a full day to remove the sensor... now just awaiting the special tool before I can fit the new sensor... I've done plenty of spannering in my time but this job takes the biscuit - I just wish I had smaller hands.

Unless you've tackled this job it's impossible to describe just how awkward it is and how little space there is to work in, and the added restriction of then having to get a socket arrangement on the end of the sensor to get into the one spot that has enough space for a movement range that allows for undoing the nut by one click of the ratchet at a time! The joy of getting the sodding thing out almost makes up for the battered knuckles, squeezing oversized hands into an undersized gap...

For the diyers cobbling together hybrid tools to tackle this, I have a couple of recommendations...

1. definitely remove the two screws in the rear heat shield - impossible to do this job without moving this heat shield back due to inexcusably bad design. PITA removing these unless you have tiny hands and arms... I had to use a magnet on a stick to offer the 8mm spanner over the screws and then a stick to push down on the spanner etc etc - crazy, but eventually got there... however, not as bad as what follows....
2. cut the sensor as GGDR suggests. To do this, you want to try and cut it just below the "corrugated" top section, where it transitions to the narrower section. This is a pig to do without specialised cutters. I did it by bending the sensor shaft toward the front of the car to give a better angle of attack. I then found some steel tubing that fitted neatly over the arms of my tin snips, thus making a "long" set of snips (helps here to never throw anything away, like old bits of pipe etc!). I could then just about get the snips onto the thin shaft of the sensor and (with a bit of brute force) cut the end. Don't waste time trying to get a hacksaw etc down there... ask me how I know. This sort of makes it sound easy. It wasn't.
3. a small screw in a strongish lath of wood makes a good tool for hooking into the heat shield holes (where the machine screws securing the shield were) to bend the shield out and down, to clear a way for the socket.
4. I used bits from four different socket sets, and a long breaker bar, to get the rest of the removal done. You want to get a hex 13mm 1/2inch impact bit onto the nut if you can. Once this is on and well seated, add on a short extension. You should then be able to get the breaker bar onto this. The breaker helps as the head angles and the head also has a relatively "thin" profile. You will have to swear a bit at this stage while you finagle the set-up until you have the bar on in an optimised position to give you a cm or two of possible anti-clockwise movement. At this stage, double check the seating of the socket, and get a solid lath of wood between the back of the head of the breaker bar and the inner wing to lever the socket and extension firmly against the sensor nut. All feeling solid? Give the breaker the full two cm! If you're lucky (like me), you get the joy of a fractional movement of the nut that says you're on the home stretch....
5. Still takes an age from this point... I managed to swap out the breaker bar for a ratchet and then used a large socket/extension bar combo as an extension handle on the ratchet, then it was five mins of ratcheting a click at a time until, joy of joys, the nut was out. The remains of the sensor were then relatively easy to extract due to the "tail" left after cutting... hats-off, GGDR, for your amazing patience in extracting your stub section with a self-tapper!! Nightmare...

So, nearly there, and thought I'd share my thanks and my thoughts. Not looking forward to getting the screws back into the heat shield, though!

I'm tempted to say that the best idea is to get a pro to do it, and if you're not remotely handy then don't even think about the DIY route, but job difficulty generally commensurate with job satisfaction, so I'd do it all over again (well, if I don't -up the instillation part....!)

Thanks again - J.

13th May 2019 10:55pm

Corsica

Member Since: 03 Jan 2019
Location: Corse
Posts: 50

2011 Range Rover HSE TDV8 Santorini Black

Hello Guys

I have the same error code.
I will probably change the probe but the question is: if on my vehicle I have no problem except a smell of badly burned fuel is it really necessary to change it only for remove a fault code ... I would like to know what we re the symptomps that you had before the changing of the sensor and the difference after?

14th May 2019 12:18pm

GGDR

Member Since: 26 Nov 2016
Location: London
Posts: 3542

j9ffy - great effort! I do think you may have had less trouble using the ratchet arm I got, but you've also proved it's possible with something else! Well done. And good luck getting the new one in.

Corsica - Hmmmm. It's not definitive. I "think" I have less smell at the exhaust pipe but there is no test to prove that. Driving seems the same. My DPF still fills up at the same rate, I just keep it on watch (using the IID) and I'm happy that I've eliminated the sensor as a cause. I'm now convinced my DPF fill rate, which seems frequent, is caused by my city driving / short commute. It's very satisfying to have that error code disappear. Was it all worth it? Kinda.

. Cheers, Greg
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
2011 Vogue SE 4.4 with lots of toys in Stornaway

14th May 2019 1:10pm

Corsica

Member Since: 03 Jan 2019
Location: Corse
Posts: 50

the problem is to know if when we cut the wire of the sensor we have to be sure if it won’t create an erreur indicator of engine and make it Turn in restriction mode...

14th May 2019 3:42pm

j9ffy

Member Since: 27 Mar 2018
Location: Indre
Posts: 33

This shouldn't be a problem as the wire is cut after disconnecting the sensor, and the vehicle should remain off until the new sensor is fitted. Even so, others here (Tore2ls, I think) have sensibly fitted the new sensor in place of the old one (ie connected the new sensor after disconnecting the old one from the wiring harness, but before extracting it from the manifold) to check that the fault clears with a sensor that is working and that the new sensor is not a faulty item before fitting ( I didn't do this but probably should have if I were being thorough ). In any event, I don't think any part of this procedure is likely to trigger restricted mode, especially since the error itself doesn't seem to trigger restricted mode.

14th May 2019 3:53pm

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