Thanks for the update, for the mid drivers, I cannot find any designed for that purpose and it looks a pain to do.

How does yours sound now? Did you do anything to the rear speakers or the center ? I generally use Logic 7 turned on for audiobooks and podcasts and off for music.

One of the "bass" speakers in my door was bust, so I swapped that for a Focal.

The tweeters were fine, but they were part of the kit so I swapped them anyway. The mid and tweeter share a channel in mine and I kept the original mid and original crossovers.

It sounds much better, but then it's nothing like the audio in my other car (which is a custom install of 8 speaker setup with 8-channel amp and DSP).

For me the Logic 7 sounds ok at listening volume, but it needs more amplification to drive the bass properly and could do with some better control of the DSP than the stock head unit provides.

I didn't touch any other speakers - the centre is only used (AFAIK) for Logic7 and I always turn that off.

If I were to do anything else it'd probably be in this order of preference;
1) Sams sub woofer mod; older box, new driver, new amp
2) replace midrange drivers in front passenger door (they're closest to where I sit)
3) Upgrade the tweeters and midranges in the rear passenger doors
4) The rear pillar speakers in the boot (I doubt I'd ever get this far)

These would all be fairly cheap mods. If I was feeling like doing the job properly I'd rip out the amp+dsp and replace with the Mobridge unit, this would make the biggest difference as I could time-align and properly EQ the whole thing to get the best out of it.

Thanks, yes my understanding of Logic 7 is essentially turning surround sound on, I would guess (but haven't tested) that the rear pillar speakers would only be used for the Logic 7 as well, like the center.

Did you find a matching midrange speaker for the door? The 2ohm thing means it's a bit harder to find, I cannot see any 3 way kits in 2ohm at all

I'm not sure what the mid-range speakers are in the fronts, they look to be smaller than 10cm, possibly even tweeters put into a 10cm sized housing?

There's some 10cm @ 3ohm here, they'd probably work:
https://masori.de/collections/4-10cm-tiefm...1x3+Ohm%29

Might need 3d printed housings or similar to get them to fit...

Siftah wrote:

IMHO, there's three routes to improve the audio in these, in order of increasing impact;
1) Replace the speakers, with the hope that 10 year newer drivers with more sensitivity will improve the sound quality.
2) Replace the sub + amp, which will give you the ability to increase the bass volume, but not necessarily improve the overall sound quality much.
3) Rip out the amp and DSP and replace with a new 8 channel+ amp and DSP so you can really tweak it all to your preferences, after having already done 1+2.

Not in car, but my home TV amp has a dynamic EQ, which will change the EQ as the volume increases, I think it's maybe the human ears which are non linear and don't perceive bass as much as lower volumes.
That sounds a fairly technical modification if not already built into the car, I don't know where you would start without ripping out the head unit

RobsterPC wrote:

I was thinking about this today. My challenge with the audio quality is that the bass amplification seems to be non-linear with volume. At lower volumes, the sub is lacking or you have to max out the settings to get good response. Then you turn the volume up and the bass levels increase, resulting in a bass overload, if such a thing exists. My original plan was to try and stick with teh original sub but add an inline amp to tweak the volume levels but I suspect this will simply provide a better bass level at regular volumes then an overload when louder.

To put it another way, I'd like to change the equalisation levels at different volumes to get a more linear/consistent bass level.

Makes total sense and I've been thinking the same with my other car (where I listen to music more). What I'd like is for DSP's to have an option where you can adjust a level based on the overal volume.

This is basically, AFAIU, why radios have a "Loudness" option, so give extra mid-range and bass when the volume is lower.

My head unit on my other car does have a Loudness option and also an equaliser which can be used to overcome this, but I'd love it to be non-linear and adjustable in the DSP settings, ideally.

As it is, I EQ'd the car based on a normal listening volume of about 75dB or so. That particular car I tend to drive myself (weekend car), so it's not so critical - but for the Rangie I usually have a passenger, so I'd really like to get more bass at a lower level of volume so I can have a conversation but still have good music.

Most decent amp's (especially bass orientated single channel) tend to come with a remote adjustment knob so you can do this btw. The 8 channel amp I have in the other car has an adjuster specifically for the 2 bass channels which just affect the amplification of those channels, which would work - though I hate aftermarket knobs and switches in the car, as a rule

RovingCanary wrote:

Not in car, but my home TV amp has a dynamic EQ, which will change the EQ as the volume increases, I think it's maybe the human ears which are non linear and don't perceive bass as much as lower volumes.

RovingCanary wrote:

That sounds a fairly technical modification if not already built into the car, I don't know where you would start without ripping out the head unit

Ah so you can bypass the existing amp in preference for an aftermarket with more power and configurable EQ ? Quite pricey units from Mobridge

I will see how new speakers sound first, I almost exclusively listen via phone, with the 1200w sound of the HD new speakers might be all I need!

Well, it's 1200watts, but at 4ohms rather than 2ohm.

AFAIU, 1200watts @ 4ohm is equivalent to 2400watts at 2ohm, so in theory it's twice as powerful.

They're not actually that pricey for that type of amp, you'll pay 800+ for a non-DSP 8-channel amp with circa 1000 watts into 4ohm anyway.