Hi guys!
After DPF removed (cutting), cleaning (120€) and reinstalled with new gaskets and 60mm clamps I moved the car to specialist to clear DPF fault cuz Gap tool not allow this operation. During the road test restricted performance appear again, also P006A-00 in Gap tool.
It seems confirmed that the intake system has a leak, but where?
Decide to perform a new smoke test again but this time well done and my suspicions were confirmed, after a while smoke appear in the valve cover...the worst and expensive failure possible in this scenario!
Now I´m reading the manual where says discard all fuel tubes once removed...I´d like to know what do you think about this. Thanks again for your support.


SMOKE TEST VIDEO: https://youtube.com/shorts/9E7I_EugG58?feature=share

Click image to enlarge

Failure point between the plastic welding of ducts cover and valve cover.

Baltic Blue wrote:

I have had the PO 40D fault permanently for at least 5 years, but I have never seen PO486 ?
Mike.

Finally a LHD candidate! I need to do mine and reading all the posts of RHD changes it sounds relatively easy in comparison. On LHD cars there is even less room to get in there and wiggle that sensor out, or even get near the heat shield bolts etc. Has anyone done a LHD sensor change on here by themselves, and if so, how on earth did they get near it? -------------------------
2012 4.4 TDV8 Vogue
2001 Audi A2 1.4 16V
2019 Skoda Kodiaq (don't ask...)

I bought the sensor and the special tool and planning to do it on my own soon.

jaguar3 has done it on a LHD  2011 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8

I think its even easyer to replace it on LHD cars due there is no battery box on the way. Just remove airfilter box and you can start straight away with sensor/heatshield work.
I dont think there is any difference in clearence between engine and car body.

Today I tried to do this job on my LHD Range Rover. had to remove the plastic trim where battery would be if it was RHD car.

Click image to enlarge

Am I completely missing something or is the LH exhaust manifold temperature sensor change being made to be a few metric tonnes more difficult than it should be? The LR Manual procedure is only 3 pages long and the key part is: First you take out the cabin air plenum which is secured by 2 x 13mm nuts. Then take out the fiddly plastic stuff around the battery box area. Then get up on top of the engine (I use an old bit of mattress foam in a bin bag as a comfortable rest mat) and reach down the back where access isn't easy but it's a whole lot less stressful than mining your way in from the near side of the car. While you're in there change the turbo oil feed o-rings and feel good about how efficient you are. 2011c Vogue SE 4.4 Oil Burner
1991 Hilux 2.4d MkIII. Sadly goone due to space and time.
2008 Skoda Octavia Scout
2000 TVR Tuscan 4.0
Loads of crap. Gone

Now that’s a new approach! As I’m about to do this on my LHD, this might actually be easier than I thought. There’s not much you can move out of the way on left hand drive cars to get at that sod of a sensor, so maybe the back-door route might be better than tearing my hands to bits squeezing them in from above… -------------------------
2012 4.4 TDV8 Vogue
2001 Audi A2 1.4 16V
2019 Skoda Kodiaq (don't ask...)

I still think you'll need to use a socket with extension bars directly onto the sensor but if you can just about get a hand in around the back it should be a lot easier, particularly if the battery box surround is removed and the wiring loom in that area detached from it's mountings and shoved out of the way leaving a linear route to the sensor. There is NO mention of needing to move heat shields in the workshop manual and LR are seldom shy in creating lengthy lists of ancillary tasks to get into somewhere. I had a dry run earlier and got all the way to detaching wiring loom anchors in about ten minutes or so. I could have done this but didn't have replacement tie wraps to hand and I needed the car this afternoon. I think I'll get someone to assist when my new sensor arrives as fiddling down the back while operating a ratchet seems unnecessary self flagilation.
In addition, I have Laser 4984 'Difficult Areas' Socket Set 3/8" D. I am hoping this will do instead of the JLR part or the Laser clone, both of which are a tad pricy. 2011c Vogue SE 4.4 Oil Burner
1991 Hilux 2.4d MkIII. Sadly goone due to space and time.
2008 Skoda Octavia Scout
2000 TVR Tuscan 4.0
Loads of crap. Gone

shinchan wrote:

Failure point between the plastic welding of ducts cover and valve cover.

Job done! I finally got the sensor replaced and must say it was nowhere near as challenging as I thought (thanks to your help here!).

The worst part of the job is that bloody heat shield. Once I got that upper “lip” out of the way, it was plain sailing.

I cut the sensor down with a mini hacksaw and cracked it loose with a 1/2 inch 13mm socket and a variety of extensions.

The new sensor went in beautifully by hand before I tightened it up with the special socket. Torque setting: niceandtight.

Getting the heat shield bolts back in place is without a doubt the worst thing I’ve ever had to do on any vehicle ever. The front one right under the sensor was a pig and a half to get going, but the rear one? I gave up after several hours of lying on top of the engine trying to get it to bite in its hole. After the 14,000th time dropping it, I just gave up and left it off for the time being. I’ll go back to it another time, once I’ve devised a cunning way of locating it and starting it in its thread.

The positive part of doing this job is however a fault-free L322. At least for today.

Now to replace all brakes and the front to rear brake pipes. I splashed out and bought the pre-formed originals. By the time I would have bought all the necessary tools to make my own, the originals worked out cheaper.

Thanks again for this wonderful forum.  -------------------------
2012 4.4 TDV8 Vogue
2001 Audi A2 1.4 16V
2019 Skoda Kodiaq (don't ask...)

To all the people that have replaced the sensor since 2019: is the new sensor holding up?

Ever since I have an IID I know I have this fault and I don't like it, even when many say it has no effect.
IOW: is it worth it to replace the broken sensor?

 2012 4.4TDV8
2000 Honda S2000

mine is perfect from what was it 3 years ago

. Cheers, Greg
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2011 Vogue SE 4.4 with lots of toys in Stornaway