Best to replace the oil cooler as it can warp and leak again. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

I recently changed the oil pipe O-rings, only to cause an even bigger oil leak afterwards! I think the pressure build up caused the “main” oil leak to get worse. I have a whole new oil cooler ready to be installed, complete with a donut scrub and a few other bits and pieces along the way.

The bell housing on mine is thick with years of old oil drips and I’ll be getting in there with gallons of brake cleaner to get that all spruced up. Interestingly, when I bought the car, the undertray was “missing” and the engine was open to the elements, and a folder full of car wash receipts, including underbody treatment every time, gave the game away. For the cost of those washes, he could have had the cooler changed out at a main dealer… go figure.

I just decided to replace the whole cooler rather than just the gaskets. That’s going to be followed by a complete service and coolant change, so that’s me good for the winter! -------------------------
2012 4.4 TDV8 Vogue
2001 Audi A2 1.4 16V
2019 Skoda Kodiaq (don't ask...)

Jamesonfox wrote:

If oil is in the coolant, can this be fixed by replacing the two gaskets on the oil cooler? Or must the entire oil cooler unit be replaced instead?

Not wishing to go against the grain of popular opinion...... but......

I only changed my gaskets and O-rings on New Years day! Had the cooler off, cleaned and visually inspected. I didn't change the oil cooler, as I felt that the stories about warped coolers might just be a bit of a sales technique - most garages (including independents) like to go the easy route and take your money for unbolting/replacing parts.

Nearly a year down the line and approaching 10kmiles later - everything is still 'hunky dory'! In short, the whole sorting the cooler leak 'thing' cost me £50!! The older I get, the more I realise that people confuse wrinkles for wisdom

66,000 kms since I changed just the gaskets. I wouldn't be surprised if they leak again as they were the original part number gaskets rather than the new part numbers which hopefully are made of more heat-resistant material. My EGR is currently still functional so heat from the EGR cooler is still heating the oil cooler.

Hello @JMC

I can assure you the stories of warped coolers are not a sales technique. I attach an image of the split in mine.

I only discovered the cracks at the back of the aluminium housing using a borescope.

FYI : The cracks closed once the cooler was off the car.

Click image to enlarge

Thanks for the heads-up 'blackpool'....

All I can say is that I checked mine thoroughly when it was on the granite worktop in the kitchen - much to my wife's dismay!

Click image to enlarge

Kinger wrote:

Sun was shining today as the postie arrived with my Viton O rings, so i thought i may as well do the job right away.
I allowed an hour to do the job and i did it in around 40 minutes by the time i had been asked what was wrong with it by 3 neighbours,

I read this thread from start to finish and pretty much every aspect of this job has been covered.
My own tip though....instead of taping the first groove i cut the back one out and replaced it leaving the old first seal in place and sliding the new one past it

The other thing i havent seen mention of is just how brittle the seals get, mine were almost hard plastic like and i could snap them easily...no wonder they leaked, my car has only around 67,000 on the clock

The hardest part, i found was lining the holes up and getting the bolt back in ...
Anyhow, i took the car for a run and searched for leaks after and i couldnt find any, illl check again next week to be on the safe side.
I had a good look around the oil cooler and looks like mine is OK with no sign of a leak
I took a few pics although most of them will have been seen on other posts.
Cheers
Mike

Guys,

Anyone had any recent dealings with Duckworth’s and if so is Rob still the main contact?
I have the dreaded oil leak from the under tray so looking to order some bits up to do a full seal change plus the top coolant hose hose in case the small spigot snaps as is covered in an earlier post.

Cheers

Just did this myself.

First thing I did was just to replace the seals on the pipe at the back....thought it fixed it but a week later it started again. Then replaced both seals on the cooler but was still getting fluid coming out.....then swapped a new cooler in and I....think...it is fixed. Only 24hours since it has been back together

Click image to enlarge

@Jimmies.
Thanks for the details.
Rob got back in touch with some prices so going to go for a full seal change whilst I have it stripped down and hope that solves the leak.
Judging by what yourself and others have done, if that fails then a cooler it will be.
Service is due soon so was wanting to get it done before then.
Cheers

Hi guys I have had all the same issues here symptoms burning oil smell smoke from back of engine only when car is warmed up horrible fumes in cabin so had oil cooler replaced 3 weeks ago but still the same fumes and smoke so now thinking its the pipe that feeds into the back of oil cooler the o rings as Craig said at start of this thread. Is this the same setup then for the L405 as the L322 this pipe that feeds the back of oil cooler causing the issue.
Cheers
Jay Range Rover Vogue SE 4.4 SDV8 SVO Stying Pack
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Yes.

Can anyone tell me what size bolt is used for the feed pipe at the rear? Mine has snapped!! Getting a new cooler, does it come with the bolts for the pipe? TIA

The bolt is M6 x 12mm according to Microcat 2012. The same size bolt is used to hold brackets on the branch of the pipe that heads towards the secondary turbo.

Thanks Graham. I thought it might have been an M5 as the head is 8mm and the shaft is 5.5mm wide.