Finally got around to fitting the new Aerosus front struts over the weekend. Even with me filming it for the YouTube video, it was a quick and easy change over. Especially when you've got a dugga-dugga gun for the big lower strut bolts.

After fitting, I carried out a height calibration followed by a damper calibration using the IID tool (which I've done numerous times before to no avail - but I think it's still a good idea after major suspension components have been replaced).

I've been driving it a few days now and have made the following observations;

- Front end is more compliant and floaty feeling than before (primary ride). Especially noticeable over speed bumps. Still pretty jarring over potholes or surface imperfections (secondary ride).

- Rear end still has a firm primary ride and poor secondary ride (very harsh over smaller imperfections, potholes etc)

- Overall, the car feels OK over large undulations. Secondary ride quality is the main issue - imperfections and potholes are pretty jarring in the cabin at times.

Hi Sam, shame that the front struts haven't made a big difference.

I have changed most of the rear bushes and that seems to have made a small difference each time a set has been changed out.

The bushes I have yet to change are the ones that connect the arms to the sub frame ( the top ones look like they will be a to access) But I do wonder in my car if these final bushes are the ones that are still transmitting the harsh feel over the smaller imperfections on the road.

(my rear shocks have not been changed yet, mainly because most people don't seem to notice a significant difference with the new shocks so I'm leaving them till last) 2012 TDV8 Autobiography Baltic Blue
Previous
2007 BMW M5 E60

Yeah, had new rear Bilstein shocks for MOT, and car was exactly the same ride wise.

Gonna end up giving it to the garage to diagnose at some point I think.

 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8

Previous cars :
2003 Range Rover Vogue TD6
1999 Discovery Td5 ES
1995 BMW M5 3.8 6 speed
1992 Range Rover 3.9 Efi Vogue
1992 BMW M5 3.8
1988 BMW 735i SE
1989 Ford Sierra XR4x4 2.9i
1981 Ford Fiesta Supersport

has anyone completely replaced all the bushes with something better than OEM - like Polybush ??
but £347 ex vat for the whole set - which seems a lot for bushes

https://www.polybush.co.uk/polyurethane-su...erby=price

Click image to enlarge

If you want to create a crashy uncomfortable ride quality then fitting pollybushes is the way to do it . Having said that if you costed up a OE set of bushes it would likley be the more expensive option and they are often easier to fit as you don't have to press fit metal sleeved joints. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

DO NOT USE POLYBUSHES!

We fitted them to a P38 years ago as they were meant to be superb. 6 months later the ride was awful and when you hit a pot hole it felt like the front axle was going to fall off. The radius arm bushes had shrunk and were loose in the radius arms.

I've just replaced every single bush on my L322 and I've not used anything other then genuine Land Rover and the ride on it now is absolutely spectacular.

Land Rover pick bushes designed for the car. Given that none of mine were in that bad a shape at 15 years old, I'd stick with OE. After market companies won't put the same level of R&D in as the vehicle manufacturer.

David. 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior

I'd tend to agree with polybushes adversely affecting the ride quality.

They are much firmer than original rubber bushes which would be great on something sporty but in my opinion not really befitting of a Range Rover.

Having given this whole adaptive damping thing some more thought I'm wondering if the module isn't sending the correct PWM signal.

I know landymansam tested the output of his with a current clamp which showed the 'correct' 1.5 amps being output to the dampers but I'm sure I've read in the WSM that the signal is PWM.

Would I be correct in thinking an oscilloscope would be needed to check the PWM signal being output?

I was thinking about this the other day…
Is it possible that the connector in the struts are all getting old? I mean the part connected to the wires to the struts that’s inserted into the top?
I’m just wondering if they become less efficient as they get older? So if the wires have the correct amps, and signal… are they getting to the solenoids in the struts via that connection?

Just a thought… Currently driving: 2012 L322 SE Overfinch 4.4 tdv8

Past rides:
2014 Audi Q7 3.0d (good riddance)
2010 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged
2011 L320 HSE 3.0 sdv6
2014 Jaguar XF-RS 5.0 supercharged
2007 BMW 535D
2005 Mini Cooper S

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic59478.html

I fitted the wire repair kit, to one of mine… that had a new connector on… still the same.

Not ruling out the other 3 of course….

Did 350 miles over a few days last week. Ride made it tiresome. Annoying me now….

Service is due, and I want MOT so I’m not trying to fix it over Christmas, like the last 2 years 🤣.

Garage need to diagnose suspension when it’s in for service me thinks….

 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8

Previous cars :
2003 Range Rover Vogue TD6
1999 Discovery Td5 ES
1995 BMW M5 3.8 6 speed
1992 Range Rover 3.9 Efi Vogue
1992 BMW M5 3.8
1988 BMW 735i SE
1989 Ford Sierra XR4x4 2.9i
1981 Ford Fiesta Supersport

could the Meyle brand be an option for a full set of bushes, am sure all mine propably need replacing after 11 years and a lot of miles - but if I do go OE, who is best to buy a full set from - any ideas welcome on this ?

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic54858.html

I’d stick with OE and just replace obviously worn ones. Some are difficult jobs and may not need replacing. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

This has to be a damper problem. I just don't see bushes affecting the actual ride, road noise and harshness yes, but not actual ride. Are you sure the adaptive suspension is working and not set permanently to 'hard' as in an ECU fault? Drives:
2010 FFRR TdV8 Vogue - Stornoway Grey
2010 FFRR TdV8 Vogue SE - Zermatt Silver
1998 BMW E36 M3 GTII

It’s definitely a damper problem. Or signal to damper problem.

I have next to no body roll on corners, bushes don’t do that.

 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8

Previous cars :
2003 Range Rover Vogue TD6
1999 Discovery Td5 ES
1995 BMW M5 3.8 6 speed
1992 Range Rover 3.9 Efi Vogue
1992 BMW M5 3.8
1988 BMW 735i SE
1989 Ford Sierra XR4x4 2.9i
1981 Ford Fiesta Supersport

I think its a damper control problem as my front LH damper is 4 years old. Front right and the rears are new fitted this year.

It's horrible at the moment, honestly feels like I've got steel girders fitted instead of shock absorbers.

Plenty of people driving round in facelift l322s without complaining about the suspension so this is something that should be fixable (one day!)

Also, a bit on the back of the connector theory earlier…. The wires… they get brittle and eventually break, mainly near the top of the front struts where it swivels… but what if it’s brittle and iffy somewhere else along the length to the ECU?

We don’t have Adaptive Dynamics fault on dash… but does that only come up when it’s open circuit? Could the wires be iffy enough not to carry the PWM signal, but not iffy enough to be a full break and throw the error…

My suspension isn’t quite as hard as when the error is showing, so I’m guessing something is getting through.

As you say, the fix for this seems to be eluding us all…… and I now have a clonk going over bumps… deep joy 🤣

 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8

Previous cars :
2003 Range Rover Vogue TD6
1999 Discovery Td5 ES
1995 BMW M5 3.8 6 speed
1992 Range Rover 3.9 Efi Vogue
1992 BMW M5 3.8
1988 BMW 735i SE
1989 Ford Sierra XR4x4 2.9i
1981 Ford Fiesta Supersport

Last edited by mjdronfield on 14th Sep 2022 6:56pm. Edited 1 time in total