Presumably you've checked your PS fluid reservoir level.

Yes and I've just changed it for fresh cold climate fluid.

Very disappointing that!

Im going to disconnect the front and back anti roll bar links to rule out that part of the system.

Guys, i have just disconnected and removed my antiroll bar links at the front only and its made a difference! The car has a lot more stability going over slight bumps and feels a lot less harsh a long the road. What i noticed when letting the antiroll bar arm free the n/s moves free while the o/s is solid on the way up, engine was off and car was on level ground,Maybe this is normal? No lights on the dash showing. Its definitely made the small bumps more bearable/smoother. I will do the rear links when I'm back in two weeks time as i know it all goes through the same dynamic response block.

Thinking about this some more today.

Given landymansam converted his over to non cvd shocks and it didn't fix his issue and I've now got 3 pretty much new shocks and 1 dated 2018 on the nsf
but my issue came back could this be a case of either too much pressure in the air bags or something similar?

I thought about that too… and I think that would make the car lift up and/or down…. As the pressure changed.

That said, I think the dynamics system can increase pressure in the air bags momentarily when cornering etc…..

I’d still like to know what “normal” is like… mine was softer before, but there was quite a bit of body roll. In the back of my mind, I’m still wondering if it’s not been right for years, and now is…. The system is supposed to limit body roll… but I don’t think it’s changing back… but then we are on 20 inch wheels with lower profile tyres….

Not helping I know… just got nothing to compare to, other than it’s not quite as stiff as when you have Adaptive Dynamics Fault on the dash….

 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8

Previous cars :
2003 Range Rover Vogue TD6
1999 Discovery Td5 ES
1995 BMW M5 3.8 6 speed
1992 Range Rover 3.9 Efi Vogue
1992 BMW M5 3.8
1988 BMW 735i SE
1989 Ford Sierra XR4x4 2.9i
1981 Ford Fiesta Supersport

I still maintain that for general ride harshness the tyres are the main decider in reducing 'crashiness' which is easily demonstrated by changing tyre pressures (or type or profile). Changing air spring height just changes the height and not the pressure and I'm sure I read it's not connected with the stability system as it would not react quickly enough. Very sophisticated active suspension systems in some high performance supercars use hydraulic systems to instantly vary both the spring and damper rates. Lastly the LR description says it changes according to driving style so who knows what that means and it may even go stiff with moderate accelerator or steering inputs if it senses the driver is in a 'sporty mood'...... 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

I do completely agree with regards to tyres jaygee however mine is running correct sized 255 50 20 Pirelli scorpions with a date code of 2021 and around 6mm tread so should all be good and everything was in fact fine for the first 200 miles of my ownership until hitting that bad patch of road at 10-15mph.

Subsequent replacement of the o/s front shock absorber then returned the ride (a complete guess based upon feedback in this thread) but the fix only lasted 2 weeks now its stiff again.

I also had a thought which was landymansam used a current clamp in one of his videos to verify the correct 1.5 amps was being provided to his relatively new rear shocks whilst driving.

Even with this proven and the shocks theoretically operating at the softest setting he still found the ride to be poor.

I now want to get a hold of a current clamp and measure mine whilst driving so as to narrow down if this is a shock issue or not.

255/50 R20 are what I'd consider to be 'low profile' for these cars. Mine came with the larger 255/55 R20 from the L405 which many consider to be an upgrade in comfort. Even a few PSI above the recommended pressure and the ride quality suffers.
I have to repeat myself here but my old Audi Allroad with air springs and variable shocks had awful ride quality when going at slow speeds on the softest shock settings and was a lot more comfortable when set to the hardest setting. At higher speeds the reverse was true. This was a manual system and had no roll control via the shock settings ( didn't need it being a low car) One reason I got rid of it was the ride quality on less than perfect road surfaces and many times I pondered changing the low profile 19" wheels which were a factory fit for a last year rollout of that model for the standard 17" that it came with in it's previous production run. Any modern car with low profile tyres has awfull ride quality but that's what people seem to like.... 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

Completely understand what you are saying Jaygee however in my case the car was fine previously and it was only driving over rough cobbled road at 10-15 mph that caused an immediate degradation in ride quality.

The tyres haven't changed before or after this event.

Still puzzling over why fitting the new front shock seemed to fix it for a while as per coopss experience but now we're back to a firm ride

My car was noticeable harsh today with no real cause as far as I recall.
As usual, my mind then wanders thinking about possible causes and something came to mind…

It’s been mentioned that the car will stiffen for corners, and I assume the steering angle sensor is part of that calculation? At the moment my control arm bushes are shot and it is causing the car to wander and pull. Therefore it’s possible that the angle of correction is enough to fool the car?

If your steering wheel is straight, is it worth checking the steering wheel angle according to an IIDTool? Maybe reset the angle via the tool, or possibly the full lock to full lock procedure?

You never know… we’ve seen stranger things with these cars… Currently driving: 2012 L322 SE Overfinch 4.4 tdv8

Past rides:
2014 Audi Q7 3.0d (good riddance)
2010 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged
2011 L320 HSE 3.0 sdv6
2014 Jaguar XF-RS 5.0 supercharged
2007 BMW 535D
2005 Mini Cooper S

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic59478.html

That is a very good point, I calibrated my dampers yesterday, I'll do the steering today. Christian.


Current Cars
2011 Range Rover Vogue SE
2020 BMW M4 Competition
2019 BMW X4

My RR Blog: www.facebook.com/L322Project
or
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic61540.html

Hi all,

I've still not got around to fitting my new front struts. I went away for a week (back the the UK) then caught COVID which has put me out of action for over a week. Getting back to normal now though so hoping to get the struts done in the next week or so.

While I was down with COVID, I wasn't driving the L322, so it sat for over a week. Earlier this weekend I took it out on a long run and to start with, the ride was 100% better. This time it seemed to last a bit longer, staying decent for an hour or so. But by the time I was on my way back, it had deteriorated back to its usual harsh, unsettled self again.

It's so annoying because for those 50 or so miles at the start of the trip, it was the best car in the world. Reminded me why I love it so much. But then when the harsh ride returns it kind of ruins the whole experience.

Ah well, fingers crossed for the front struts and if not, well, onto the next cause I guess!  Sam's Motor & Machine YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCgNSRjY0I9FCzsi9ku3ccbw

Home of the 'Cheapest 4.4 TDV8 Range Rover"

Hi Sam,
Clearly, coming back to the UK isn’t good for you

It’s odd that being sat for a while seemed to revert to a smooth ride for a while. There was a comment made about raising and lowering through the full range of suspension heights which might be worth trying? I.e. fully raise, then lower (bump stops maybe?) before reverting to normal height?

Maybe next time she turns harsh, pull over and give that a go? Currently driving: 2012 L322 SE Overfinch 4.4 tdv8

Past rides:
2014 Audi Q7 3.0d (good riddance)
2010 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged
2011 L320 HSE 3.0 sdv6
2014 Jaguar XF-RS 5.0 supercharged
2007 BMW 535D
2005 Mini Cooper S

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic59478.html

Typical behaviour when a shock has lost some of its oil causing the oil to froth when worked then the air works its way back out when left to sit for enough time. Fully extending the shock forces the oil to the bottom when it can do its job for a little while.
116K miles a year ago - just fit the new front shocks.