The red curve is an MOT fail……
I’ll bounce mine and report back. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

Hi Sam,

Watched your latest video on this last night and I could really feel your pain and frustration with it all.

It will be very interesting to see if the Aerosus struts solve this for you!

I agree with what you have said with regard to data logging and the input/test roads being different so that is something to think about.

I'm now considering replacing the rears on my car too as I can definitely feel a difference from front to back.

I wonder if Coopss still has those Bilstein rears for sale

LandyManSam wrote:

Hi all... apologies for the long delay. I don't get as much time for forum reading and posting as I'd like!

Whilst I can't say I'm 'happy' that you guys are having suspension problems with your FFRRs, I must say I'm pretty relieved that there are others out there grappling with the same issue!

I've read through everything and I think that we're on the right track with changing the front struts - especially after Mariana's apparent success - most encouraging. I have a pair of front struts from Aerosus sitting here ready to fit (yes - the same Aerosus whose air springs leaked on my first go with them...) which they kindly sponsored to the channel. With how expensive 'proper' struts are for these, I'm willing to give Aerosus another crack of the whip and see what happens.

I too was intending to get SDD back out and do some more logging, so it would be interesting to compare data, although without driving along the same 'input' (road), it might be a bit meaningless.

Regarding accelerometers, I'm pretty sure there are only 3 on the L322 despite what the wshop manual says. I've tried replacing the one in the boot for a good used one, but haven't bothered trying to dig out either of the front ones yet. Not entirely sure where they are but it might be worth a go.

Anyway fingers crossed for all of us that the front strut replacements help all of our problems!

I am having an issue with my rears at the moment, though the difference is this throws a fault so the whole car just goes stiff like driving a sports car. My issue is the plug on my right rear keeps popping off!! i now have it cable tied in place. but I did take some live readings with Icarsoft V2.

when you have the car running no voltage is supplied and the rears were static at 899NM, as soon as i engaged drive this figure dropped to 250NM and we could see the voltage change, from there it is all a bit crazy as you drive down a road the voltages to each shock changes and this changes the NM value and they are all different according to what the wheels are doing.

on going round a right corner you can see the NM of the left side (F &R ) increase as the voltage drops. as we straighten up you see the right side NM value increase.

when i get time i will try and record a video and post it, but from what i saw the higher the voltage the lower the NM value of the shock.

as soon as you engage park the voltage goes to 0 and the NM value sits at 899NM. i did not try to bounce the car in park so cannot comment if you need to be in drive. My suspicion is you need to be in Drive for the system to go active. 2012 Vogue 4.4 TDV8 - Current
2014 Navara V6 - Gone
2004 Vogue TD6 - Gone
Grand Cherokee - Gone
Discovery V8 (LPG) - Gone
Discovery TD5 - Gone

That makes sense for how I imagined it might work.

Can’t see anyone in the UK that remanufactures or rebuilds them. A few in the US.

 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8

Previous cars :
2003 Range Rover Vogue TD6
1999 Discovery Td5 ES
1995 BMW M5 3.8 6 speed
1992 Range Rover 3.9 Efi Vogue
1992 BMW M5 3.8
1988 BMW 735i SE
1989 Ford Sierra XR4x4 2.9i
1981 Ford Fiesta Supersport

It’s frustrating that you are able to get readings from your icarsoft, whereas the IIDTool is unable to. I did ask GAP, but only got a rather terse response about only showing what Land Rover supplies.

If the icarsoft can do it then the IIDTool should have no problem.

Anyway, I am still hopeful that there is a solution that works for all. Certainly MarianaWestminster has promising news, and if Sam finds the same with the new struts, then we may have that answer. And Coopss, I will eat my hat for ever doubting you  Currently driving: 2012 L322 SE Overfinch 4.4 tdv8

Past rides:
2014 Audi Q7 3.0d (good riddance)
2010 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged
2011 L320 HSE 3.0 sdv6
2014 Jaguar XF-RS 5.0 supercharged
2007 BMW 535D
2005 Mini Cooper S

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic59478.html

MarianaWestminster, now you’ve had a bit longer with the new strut, how are you finding it? Still happy with it?
And are you happy leaving the bilstien on the other side? Currently driving: 2012 L322 SE Overfinch 4.4 tdv8

Past rides:
2014 Audi Q7 3.0d (good riddance)
2010 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged
2011 L320 HSE 3.0 sdv6
2014 Jaguar XF-RS 5.0 supercharged
2007 BMW 535D
2005 Mini Cooper S

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic59478.html

Hi ffrr lover,

Yes still happy with it also happy keeping the 2018 date marker Bilstein on the other side as I can't really tell a difference side to side.

Tempted to do the rears as well now to see if it can be improved even further but I'm not unhappy with how it rides as it is currently.

Hopefully mine and coopss experiences will give others the confidence to change the front shocks and then we will gain more feedback.

Eagerly awaiting Landymansams news following the fitment of his new front shocks

Might be a couple of weeks now until I can get to it, on a mission next week to rescue a certain big green Cummins powered machine from the UK

But yeah I'm quietly getting my hopes up about the struts... Sam's Motor & Machine YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCgNSRjY0I9FCzsi9ku3ccbw

Home of the 'Cheapest 4.4 TDV8 Range Rover"

Site sponsor Advanced Factors sell BWI ones which I understand are OEM spec.
https://www.advancedfactors.co.uk/front-ai...-292-c.asp
Don't forget the discount code: AF4LRP
Hope you all get things fixed soon and that new front shocks is the answer. Fascinating thread
And hopefully Sam can video it all on his  Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
--------------------------------------------------

I went with LR genuine for the front. Wasn’t much in it when I looked 1995 4.6 v8, green/tan (long gone)
2005 4.8iS X5, blue/black
2011 4.4 tdv8, black/black (gone)
2003 3.0d X5, Oxford green/black/manual
2021 p575 SVR, BR green/vintage tan

Hi all

reading the post with interest and also keeping a keen eye on LandyManSams videos!

I have a 2012 4.4TDV8 with 120,000mls and have the harsh ride, so far I have changed both front arms, rear hub bushes(these did make an improvement, mainly because the lowers were seized), rear toe links and all the drop links, I'm now onto the rear subframe bushes and then next will be the rear upper and lower wishbone bushes.

I have not changed any of the struts yet even though the car has high mileage, mainly because of the cost and I don't want to change them and have the continued disappointment of the ride not improving.

I am very keen to see if any others have success with changing the front struts, mine feels like its the rears and it bounces at the rear a lot easier than the front. (by hand)

Would be good if we could get together and compare each others cars in person to see if they all feel the same or what the differences are.

Last edited by colalowe on 18th May 2022 9:11am. Edited 1 time in total

Yeah, it’s a bit subjective till we ride in another one…. Difficult to tell what’s “correct”.

At the minute, I’ve a feeling I start to slide out the seat before the car starts to roll on corners.

 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8

Previous cars :
2003 Range Rover Vogue TD6
1999 Discovery Td5 ES
1995 BMW M5 3.8 6 speed
1992 Range Rover 3.9 Efi Vogue
1992 BMW M5 3.8
1988 BMW 735i SE
1989 Ford Sierra XR4x4 2.9i
1981 Ford Fiesta Supersport

I replaced mine's fronts after having already replaced the rears and noting that the front of the vehicle rode my 2km rutted dirt track driveway very harshly compared with the rear, feeling every little bump. With air-springs not having the return to centre characteristic of steel springs that causes bounce even on quite smooth surfaces, worn-out shocks can be less obvious.

So after reading the thread I thought I would try a bounce test,

Front feels very hard not much bounce it does move though so not solid
Rear bounces ok, probably one bounce then stops

So I'm thinking now, if the front shocks have gone then when they go over a bump the impact is felt through the car and the sensors think they need to stiffen up so the rears go hard thus giving the harsh ride over small imperfections.

With this in mind I have just reversed up and down my road (neighbours will think I've lost the plot)

It does feel like the rear shocks work ok in reverse when they hit the bumps first and the ride is acceptable vs driving over front wheel s first when it just crashes over the bump. (there was just one or two bumps/imperfections on the road, if the whole road is bad then I don't think it will show because once the fronts hit the shocks all stiffen up)

If anyone gets a chance have ago and see if you get the same feeling if you reverse over the bumps (I did it around 5-10mph)
It could just be a placebo effect as I'm thinking now the front shock are the problem

Last edited by colalowe on 18th May 2022 6:10pm. Edited 1 time in total

I'm guessing you were bouncing the car at a standstill?

In which case the dampers should actually be locked solid in 'hard mode', as the dampers don't get energised until the vehicle starts moving.

So, the fact that you can bounce the rear at a standstill might mean your rear dampers are worn out to the point that they can't go 'hard' any more? Sam's Motor & Machine YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCgNSRjY0I9FCzsi9ku3ccbw

Home of the 'Cheapest 4.4 TDV8 Range Rover"