Here an attempt 4. It keeps stalling and when the engine does spin, it sounds like a bag of spanners.. Putting that on the side, does this sound to you guys like a fuel issue?

If a diesel engine is spinning that fast and not starting I'd say it's a fuelling issue. Suggest you log the fuel rail and pump pressures in the IID when it's cranking. The fuel rail should be pressurised even before cranking. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

Quote:

If a diesel engine is spinning that fast and not starting I'd say it's a fuelling issue. Suggest you log the fuel rail and pump pressures in the IID when it's cranking. The fuel rail should be pressurised even before cranking.

Would you be able to tell me how to do that on the GAP IID tool? I’ve been unable to figure out how to view live data during cranking

Live values show fuel rail demanded and actual pressure in bar. You need to see pressure before cranking to start and this will display with ignition on. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

In the IID app go to:

Live Value > Complete List > PCM.

In there you should see actual fuel pressure and desired fuel pressure or something like that.

David. 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2007 Range Rover Supercharged in Java Black with Ivory Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior

If it was a petrol, I would be suggesting you check the firing order to make sure the spark plug wires were on the correct spark plugs. However, it sounds like it is backfiring into the exhaust or inlet manifolds. A possible cause of this on a diesel could be a faulty cam/crank sensor or the camshaft timing could have jumped (through worn or broken chain tensioner). This also might account for the lack of compression during cranking and the mechanical noise whilst the engine is ‘almost’ running. It’s a pity that there has been a series of faults that needed mended before arriving at the real problem. It will be interesting to hear what you find to be the actual fix and the extent of any subsequent damage. Thanks for keeping us up to date. 2012, FFRR Westminster TDV8 - Orkney Grey
2003, FFRR Vogue TD6 - Zambezi Silver
IIDBT

If fueling is ruled out, could it be a defective crankshaft position sensor? John
2008 Stornoway Grey 3.6 Tdv8 Vogue
2005 TD6 Java Black Vogue - Written off!!
GAP iiD BT
2003 Discovery TD5 Auto, Nanocom Evolution - gone to a new home!
MasseyFerguson 152 - No electronics!! - Sold

Last edited by Weegie on 15th May 2022 7:40am. Edited 1 time in total

dhallworth wrote:

In the IID app go to:

Live Value > Complete List > PCM.

In there you should see actual fuel pressure and desired fuel pressure or something like that.

David.

Thanks guys! I had to active the IID tool to see the 'complete list' under the 'live values'. Once activated, I could see all the variables. Annoyingly, I've been once again unable to start the bloody thing this evening due to what still seems like a bad earth. No matter how many times I tried connecting the jump lead cable directly from the battery to different areas of the engine block . This seems to be an intermitted fault and it's quite frankly driving me crazy! Anyways, with the ignition on, I could see that the desired fuel pressure should be 30,000kPa but the actual fuel pressure was only 600kPa. Obviously I need to see if this changes once I start cranking but I would expect the pressure to be at the 'desired' level even with just the ignition on..? Or am I wrong here? If it is the fuel pressure issue, is it likely to be one of the two fuel pumps?

The engine drives the HPFP so only low pressure until the engine spins.
Monitor the engine RPM display on the IIDtool to confirm that the crankshaft position sensor is working.

Some good progress here for sure… but although it’s cranking fast enough, the engine sounds like it has some good compression, and a lot of low compression. If fuel pressure is low, then what on earth could cause this… when we have so many other problems already found…. Possibly and injector is broken through damage and pouring fuel into one bore, and dropping the cranking fuel pressure… (just a guess of course). I hope it’s not piston ring damage giving low compression.. definitely try the east start method…. If it fires better, you are nearly there.. and an assistant can spray continuously into the air box pipe ( can’t remember which side is the low revs side, is it Left one?). Not sure it’s going to sound like a sewing machine yet… but definite progress. The earth strap must have got red hot previously and gone high resistance. Causing the mega fuse issues. Possibly, Sounds like you have had a bore seize (possibly with oil level low), and engine has been subsequently cranked over, all be it very tightly.. (starter goes on a timed start cycle, even if you take finger off button, so you can’t stop cranking….. then wiring over heated, and eventually blew fuse… just guessing, but trying to piece together logical clues we have from previous posts etc.

From hearing that and my knowledge of cars I would say it has been run short of oil and is partly seized also it is low on compression

at last maybe we are moving in the right direction. 2018 SE SDV8 4.4 Byron Blue

I strongly suspect by the sound of that video it has been overheated or run out of oil I think all this use of diagnostic code reads is a waste of time, I would remove the oil cap and have a sniff it will be awful and have what is know in the trade as a smell of death, if it was partly seized this would also account for starter not turning it over and blowing megafuse

Failed to get it cranking this morning despite many efforts to connect the battery's earth directly to the engine's block. So left it sitting for a few hours and tried again this afternoon when it just decided to crank again (go figure). Anyways, first I just watched the GAP IID tools live data and initially the fuel pressure was showing low (while cranking), but after a few seconds it shot up to around 30,000kPa and in that instance the engine tried to fire up but died right away (just like previous times). I also noticed that the 'engine speed' wasn't changing (crank sensor fault?). So I removed the left hand side airbox elbow in the attempt to use the easy start. First thing I noticed was that there was smoke coming out of the lower air intake tube immediately after removal. I asked my wide to start the engine for me while I was spraying the easy start into to the tube. We tried three times but on each time the car was cranking for very unusually short period with no start. So I went to the driver's door to check the dash board when suddenly a massive bang came out of the engine bay with something shooting into the air. Scared the bejesus out of me! It turned out to be the rubber hose connecting the air throttle body with the radiator. There was a lot of white smoke coming out of the radiator after the bang. Somehow it pressurised the air intake system blowing the hose.. Is this normal? I was also thinking that I should try spraying the easy start into the throttle body directly rather than airbox end, however since a few of you suggested doing it through the air box hose I decided against it. Is there a reason why I shouldn't do it through the throttle body instead?

I thought I was recording the whole thing, but stupidly I wasn't. After the incident, I also noticed a strange sounds in the engine bay around the fuel filter area so I recorded it with my phone. There was a range of sounds from clicking type (valve opening / closing) to something sounding like an actuator at work etc. I couldn't pin point the sources of these sounds but perhaps some of you might be familiar with them?

https://youtube.com/shorts/sltYEBTO2FY?feature=share