sounds like good progress. engine spinning fast... sounds fast enough to start to me. I would be buying a can of easy start, and giving it 'both barrels'. _ie both intakes a good spray. -if only to know that it wants to fire up.
there has been a good amount of discussion on here regarding the 4.4 tdv8 starter no crank issue, and im going through it right now. the general theory, is that a surge, towards the starter motor actuating wire, during the starter engaging, shuts down the start function.. maybe something to do with it thinking the engine has started, and disengages solenoid etc.... I have it occasionally. I had been tempted to run a bit of wire from the actuating wire on the starter motor. (the thin wire under a screw connection) and run that up to the positive terminal, with a manual momentary switch, to manually crank the starter/engine, with the ignition on. I had wondered if it would work, but wondered if it relies on fuel pressure during cranking.. but surely enough residual pressure would get a few squirts in on first spin etc. this 'popular' fault could be including itself on your issue, which does sound like a solution/start is very near now. I would think that the lazy slow cracking issue is behind you now, and the 400 amp fuse is safe to give a longer spin. I would be making sure all accessories are off, like auto lights, heather motor, and radio etc.
n.b. when I get the starter motor no crank issue, it helps to do the start sequence in two stages, ie turn ignition on, then depress pedal, and then press start button firmly. if mine wont go, it makes a very feint click sound. and you try again...

Dont want to sound stupid but are you sure the fuel in the tank is diesel, these days if mixed it can be difficult to tell i would take a sample of fuel from filter and test it for a presence of any petrol years ago had same problem with a rover 75 that nobody else could fix and sure enough it has mix of petrol with the diesel

Dave

Having seen the oil filter (never ever seen anything like that ) and comments of very little oil in the engine when you first checked.Plus the effort to manually only ever getting 20 degrees initially.

Who knows what components were starved of oil and for how long?
It is obvious, your engine was initially seized who knows what the condition of the moving parts are after you have finally got it turn over.
A previous poster mentioned removing sump etc etc for a look see. I am thinking maybe you need to remove whole engine and check everything, including Turbo's etc as they certainly dont perform well without clean plentiful oil.  2018 SE SDV8 4.4 Byron Blue

I've just watched your cranking video's again.

Towards the end of the first video there's a ticking noise that starts to develop. Can you narrow that down at all?

Also, as it's cranking it does sound like compression starts to build versus what it sounds like at the start of the video.

Not sure if anyone has mentioned it before, and I'd not recommend it really, but have you tried giving it a small shot of EasyStart? Not recommended but it'd tell you if it'd run or not. It could also do more damage if it fires and something really isn't happy. 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior

From experience with the 3.6 which is a totally different engine, it would die with 60 miles range still showing. I used to put fuel in then have someone turn the ignition on whilst I held a Schrader valve in the fuel rail open with the tip of a screwdriver. When the fuel bled through it hit the open bonnet with some force. Then the car would start. I assume the 4.4 will have a similar duel fuel pumps arrangement as it has the saddle tanks. So look for a Schrader valve on the high pressure fuel rail.
The IID tool should also allow you to check the fuel line pressure?
Hope this helps. Rehab is for quitters!!!

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A starter motor will slow after cranking for several seconds due to the battery depleting, not necessarily slowing due to increasing compression but still possible especially if the exhaust is blocked.

The schrader valve is in the low pressure supply line.

Lot of things to check...

According to the Owners Manual, there is fuel system inertia switch in the system that can be tripped. It says to seek assistance should it have been operated. 2012, FFRR Westminster TDV8 - Orkney Grey
2003, FFRR Vogue TD6 - Zambezi Silver
IIDBT

See above 2012, FFRR Westminster TDV8 - Orkney Grey
2003, FFRR Vogue TD6 - Zambezi Silver
IIDBT

Sorry guys for the lack of updates as I was snowed under with work this week. Unfortunately I seem to be stuck on the 'no start / no crank' issue once again unable to resolve it. I get no IID fault codes, and all the engine compartment fuses seem to be fine (including all three MEGA fuses). I also manually checked the voltage at the starter motor and all seems to be in order. However when I press the starter button (with ignition on), it just restarts (see video below). I feel at complete loss now on what this could be as I believed that the original cause behind the no crank was the blown 400A MEGA fuse. Once this was replaced alongside the starter motor and the alternator, it was cranking for about three days days, until it wasn't for no apparent reason! Any ideas on what could be causing this would be greatly appreciated!



Last edited by PeterRRVogue on 13th May 2022 6:15pm. Edited 1 time in total

Maybe do a reset ? Disconnect the battery, wait 30mins (?) then touch the pos and neg leads together briefly and reconnect. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

Quote:

Maybe do a reset ? Disconnect the battery, wait 30mins (?) then touch the pos and neg leads together briefly and reconnect.

Have you checked the earth side of the battery? Engine earth strap etc? 2012, FFRR Westminster TDV8 - Orkney Grey
2003, FFRR Vogue TD6 - Zambezi Silver
IIDBT

Quote:

Have you checked the earth side of the battery? Engine earth strap etc?

How is the positive terminal?

Alright guys, so it's indeed most likely is a bad earth after all Moving the jump lead cable around to a different location this morning seemed to have fixed the issue. Will have to locate and examine the engine earth strap to see if that's faulty but I will worry about that once I know if the engine is running. So I tried cranking it again three times this morning and on each time it fired up for a split of a second (after a few second of cranking) only to stall straight away (see video below). It made the gear knob to raise for the first time.

Start attempt no.1:


Start attempt no.2:


Start attempt No.3:


I did buy couple of cans of easy start but I haven't tried them yet. Also will need to get a second pair of hands to do that