154JON. You make a great point and something I meant to mention. I checked on TOPIX and if I follow the replacement procedure there, a torque of 70Nm is quoted, adding that you must use a new bolt.

But if you look up the torque specification independently of the replacement procedure, a torque of 60Nm is quoted.
So on the same information service provided by JLR they specify 2 different tightening torques for for the same bolt!

If I get time I’ll send a couple of screenshots.
However, I decided to go with 60Nm as the torque to use. It feels adequately tight. I would suggest that 70Nm will not make much difference to the gap in the clamp. Not going to try it on these new ones though.

Jon
It might be worth pointing out to the Land Rover people that refused the owners claim for the Knuckle failure due to the ball joint bolt being over tightened which is their current excuse for refusing the claim that thier own top arm replacement instructions tells there own fitters to over tighten the bolt by 10NM.

i suspect the topix '70' is more up to date than the older WM '60'

not being technical but would tightening by 10 less be a contributor to the failure? ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
.

Hi Stan
Both the 70NM and 60NM instruction were in the same topix document i have whater one it is i dont know, 10NM might not be enough to cause the failure but if it was my fight i would definitly print both lots of instruction of and walk into Land Rover where they refused the claim with a smile on my face waiting for an explanation.

154JON wrote:

Jon
It might be worth pointing out to the Land Rover people that refused the owners claim for the Knuckle failure due to the ball joint bolt being over tightened which is their current excuse for refusing the claim that thier own top arm replacement instructions tells there own fitters to over tighten the bolt by 10NM.

Jon Byrne wrote:

AJGalaxy2012. I edited this reply as I did not read your message properly on a first read. I based my assumption of over tightening based on the reduced width of the gap. But on reflection I feel I should withdraw any suggestion that over torquing the bolt would cause this. However, I’m certain that corrosion build up is significant and agree it is very much possible that the progressive build up of corrosion will close the gap in the joint. I have not yet witnessed an example of a failed clamping joint that showed a build up of corrosion within the original gap that caused the gap width to reduce. I don’t want to say it is not possible, but just that I have not seen it personally.
I have the broken clamp here with the bolt still in place. I might look at it under a magnifying lens to see if I can see corrosion in there.

I have brought an engineer onto the job to compile a report. Will be interesting to read his findings.
I’ve reported the fault to DVSA and will wait to see what the outcome of that is.

Hi I have had the same problem with the knuckles ,I am female and really don’t know much about cars but in February I was coming off a busy roundabout heard a loud bang and my steering went,I had never been so scared.when I got out of the car the drivers side wheel was bent inwards I had it towed to a local garage where the drive shaft and knuckle were replaced.then a few weeks ago I turned left heard a loud bang and the other side had done exactly the same thing.my bill for both repairs was nearly £5000 .I have a 2015 Range Rover and my vin no falls in this category

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Griz, have a look at gov.uk/vehicle recalls and faults. Step 1 is to tell the manufacturer. That would be Land Rover itself, rather than (say) a dealer, contact details on the LR website. Step 2 if you are dissatisfied with the response is to report to DVSA through the vehicle recalls and faults site.

This being an important safety issue anything short of a recall by LR of all affected vehicles would be likely to leave one dissatisfied. You will have seen earlier on this thread that LR effectively dismissed this sort of thing as ordinary wear and tear and refused to contribute to repair costs and there has been no recall.

There might be a case for consulting a solicitor on whether a claim against LR might succeed, on the basis that they have been aware of the issue for some time and have done nothing about it. The argument would go that awareness would have led to a duty of care, it being reasonably foreseeable that users would suffer loss if LR did nothing, so they would be liable to compensate anyone who has suffered loss as a result of their breach of that duty. In the US no doubt there would be a class action like this, the authorities would get involved and LR would be obliged to do a recall and compensate the people affected. But the chances in the UK are less good and sadly maybe someone has to be killed or seriously injured before there is any action. Litigation is such an expensive and uncertain hassle though that it is hard to recommend getting involved in it.

The motoring press would probably not push this as they would not want to fall out with major advertiser LR, but a mainstream paper might run a story.

Good luck anyway. It's a nasty business and the one silver lining is that you and your passengers were not hurt. Only Range Rovers since 1988

It would carry more weight and cost less if all of you on here got together and started a joint action against JLR, It would also be better for DVSA to have a group contact them with the same issue. BMW i3 Electric Car
2012 Full Fat RR 4.4 TDV8 (now gone)
2006 VW Touareg 3.0 TDi V6

All. I am the originator of this thread and it is now two years since I had the issue and made a case to the DVSA.

Two years on I am still waiting for a response from DVSA, who took the case up as an urgent issue!

I unfortunately having been getting any updates on this thread so I hadn’t realised it had gather a head of steam.

I would like to set up a WHATSAPP group for all those who are claiming from JLR and have a case in with Simon at the DVSA

I am now considering if we have potential for a “class action” against JLR and DVSA if needed, to progress this out. I am aware that Land Rover Russia are replacing these on a recall and Dubai are inspecting them on routine service and replacing if fractures are showing.

Please PM me if you would like to be added to the WA group

Griz wrote:

Hi I have had the same problem with the knuckles ,I am female and really don’t know much about cars but in February I was coming off a busy roundabout heard a loud bang and my steering went,I had never been so scared.when I got out of the car the drivers side wheel was bent inwards I had it towed to a local garage where the drive shaft and knuckle were replaced.then a few weeks ago I turned left heard a loud bang and the other side had done exactly the same thing.my bill for both repairs was nearly £5000 .I have a 2015 Range Rover and my vin no falls in this category

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

. I have reported it to Range Rover but am still waiting to hear from them.the car has full RR service history and had a major service last March at 55000 miles.Not quite sure what to do next.

Griz, if the garage that renewed the parts was not a dealer or independent specialist I would get a dealer or Indy specialist to check the torque on the new parts / fastenings, as reading the above post from Jon Byrne, if these were over tightened / torqued, then you could end up with the same problem again in the future.

Agree with the above, to change one and not both is highly unusual, especially under those circumstances, sounds like they were not used to RR's?

I can't believe that jlr are ignoring this issue and that there hasn't been a recall

Look how long its taken them to recall Evoque/Disco Sport steering racks