completed just going to check oil level and fire her up!!
have a wiz round the block then do oil and filter change 2012 Vogue 4.4 TDV8 - Current
2014 Navara V6 - Gone
2004 Vogue TD6 - Gone
Grand Cherokee - Gone
Discovery V8 (LPG) - Gone
Discovery TD5 - Gone

Brilliant Guide. Just done mine at weekend. I changed the O rings a few months ago but still got the oil smell now and again. Gaskets done now so hope it's solved it. The old ones were very flat and it was a good opportunity to clean out all the crud from the intake manifold etc 2011 Vogue SE TDV8

I found mine still smelt for quite a while after I did the change, I think the oil only burns of certain places when it is really hot or long run. Been fine for the last year or more but took months before it cleared initially.

Cheers,

MM 2011 TDV8 AB
2006 TD6 AB (Gone to Wales)

Yes, same here. Done a couple of weeks ago and still had a feint oil smell for a few days. Was worried I'd not put something back properly. Nothing now and when someone is in the car with me I don't have to blame the car in front  2011 Vogue SE TDV8

Finding myself in the same situation as most of you here, I prepared the tools, consumables and extra spare time to get the job done on a nice Saturday morning. The disassembly was going pretty smooth, took me something around 2 cups and an hour until I got the cooler assy out ... just to find out that some F% wit has already been in there before me, and plastered EVERYTHING with silicone:

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Delivery arrived from Rob at Duckworths today and it's worth noting that the oil cooler gaskets have new part numbers, signifying an update / change to the original parts.

New part numbers are LR113003 & LR113004.

JMC, do you have a part number for the large air hose and connectors shown in your photo. I'm just about to start the whole process on my 2011 V8.

Great guide - i ordered the o-ring for the coolant hose, but elected not to replace it as it seemed ok - may live to regret that...

I've just completed the fix. It would have been extremely difficult without this great guide. Some of the bolts were tricky to find without reference to the photos. I got the new seals part numbers are LR113003 & LR113004 and replaced the orings in the oil feeder and the water pipe.

What was a pain was the amount of crud that came out of the intakes. Bits of it fell out onto the ground and it makes for a very messy black goo which seems to get everywhere!.

No leaks so far and so I am very happy.

So my original "new to me car thread" has in reality turned into the oil cooler replacement thread - but that's cool, happy to be of help

The AB will probably be going up for sale in the next few weeks so I though I would do the last preventative maintenance task I had on my list ready for the next owner.

So on with the rear wheel arch inspection Nice how to video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4-_cU20rfgs if you want to see how to do it as I am a bit picture short on this one.

Basically,
Remove rear wheel
Remove 2 x 8mm bolts inside wheel arch and 1 x 10mm nut under the top of the wheel arch.
Depending on if you have mudflaps or not you can then remove 2 or 3 retaining screws that secure the liner to the rear and front of the arch.
Remove the rubber trim strip from around the rear edge of the arch.

The liner itself is a tight fit but I peeled it away from the inner lip of the front of the arch and then peeled it out of the arch lip all the way around. It takes a fair bit of force but you won't break anything - just be careful you don't scratch the paintwork

The liner will then come out; NOTE if you have TPMS you will find a wire attached to the trailing edge of the liner so be careful when you remove as it doesn't have a lot of slack on it.

Once the liner is out you can see the wheel arch itself - after a wipe over mine were pretty much perfect so that was great.

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

It's nice to see one so solid in the cills after recent pictures!

I'm almost scared to take the covers off mine!

Are the covers easy to remove? 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior
2013 Range Rover Sport SDV6 HSE Black Edition in Santorini Black with Ebony Interior

Not difficult to remove but fiddly. If you have sidesteps these need to come off first which is easiest done on a ramp.

Then popping the clips underneath is pretty straightforward and popping the trim retainer clips near the top is just a matter of giving it a slap - with the normal caveat that sometimes one or two will break.

The faff was getting it all lined up nicely when putting back together.

Cheers,

MM 2011 TDV8 AB
2006 TD6 AB (Gone to Wales)

What a superb walk through mm289 A pleasure to read and view.

Thanks to your post as well as Graeme and Kinger I just replaced my oil feed pipe "o" rings and even though i was a tad reluctant I decided to go ahead.
Your explanations were so thorough it actually took no time to get it done. The rings where rather tired and I am sure I have eliminated a leak i suspected came from there.
For info, I placed a bit o sticky tape to the end of the 8mm socket to remove and reset the bolt which made the task much easier. Was afraid it would be swallowed for ever inside the engine labyrinth.

best

A RR HSE TDV8 4.4 2012
Jaguar S type 3.6l
Jaguar XJ8
Jaguar X type 3l
Triumph TR6 1976 - Jeep CJ7 1976

Just done the O Rings on mine yesterday.
Fantastic guide with great instructions 👍👍👍 2001, 4.4 TDV8, Vogue, Baltic Blue

Hi

Just on with the oil cooler change and as usual for me, I’m having problems splitting electrical plugs….
How do I split this one? Tried but it just won’t budge