All my fluids are nearly done now with the exception of the engine oil which was done in June by previous owner and I intend on doing in December, the next one to tackle is the transfer case.

At this stage I have already changed the fluid in both differentials, the gearbox, power assisted steering and the brake fluid.

You could put the car in extended mode and put a stand underneath as there is loads of room in this mode, I already had the car in the air so I did it at the time.

I used Smith and Allen Transfer Case 0753 oil.

Click image to enlarge

As you may have seen from my first post, the tailgate needed some attention before the rust created a hole and with winter approaching I made it a priority to get done.

As I am no good at bodywork I decided to get someone in to do it.

The rust on the surface was minor and the seam sealer underneath was trapping water.

This is a great thread

It's quite satisfying knowing you've got it all done when you're finished! I need to look at my top tailgate but I'm not brave enough to start painting it myself I don't think.

David. 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior

Headlight bulbs.
My HID's were looking a little dull and yellowing so I bought some OSRAM replacements.

If you do this, don't buy cheap knock off bullbs or you'll have all sorts of issues with overheating, beam pattern, dazzling, radio interference, CAN BUS errors etc. Stick with Philips or Osram.

They are D3S on my MY2011 so I went for OSRAM Cool Blue Intense Xenarc





The main beam aux lamp is halogen and they are very yellow, so I upgraded to some OSRAM LEDriving HL H7 bulbs.

The bulbs are dead easy to access, I didn't need to remove anything under the bonnet except the portals on the back of the headlight unit

This is the xenon lamp



This is the aux main beam lamp



These are the old vs new D3S lamps, new on the right. Notice the bubble in the middle of the envelope on the Philips one (on the left) has gone opaque.




New on the left.



These plus in and twist so the wiring is facing downwards, it's 1/4 turn only.


Next is the aux beam H7 lamps

Old vs New.






this is where it gets interesting.

there is a collar on the lamps that you need to take off, turn 180 and put back on and then it locks onto the body of the lamp and allows angle adjustment. Mine are oriented east/west for the two LEDs

Before I realised I needed to reverse this collar, I tried to insert the bulb as is and the collar fell off. Down into the engine bay.

That required some intense searching, and then the removal of the undertrays in a vain attempt to find the collar as the bulb cannot be fitted without it and they're £70 a pair for new bulbs.

I replaced all the spire nuts and screws with stainless ones, much better.







Turns out the collar was not even down there, it was wedged down the side of the radiator on the bracket standing straight up. Bearing in mind this thing is like a big washer and not magnetic I am surprised I ever found it.

The collar is the black and silver bit

Click image to enlarge

Great work, and you're reminding me that the HID bulbs on my facelift 3.6 (with the same lights) are a bit pants, so I'll get some new bulbs as they'll be the originals. The LED lights for the main beams look good too.

That’s a big improvement. Have you got a link to the bulbs you used? 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior

Both the bulbs I got from Amazon.

The HIDS

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01NA9...&psc=1

The LEDS

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07P5N...8&th=1 Christian.


Current Cars
2011 Range Rover Vogue SE
2020 BMW M4 Competition
2019 BMW X4

My RR Blog: www.facebook.com/L322Project
or
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic61540.html

Beam pattern looks wrong, where is the kick up to the left side to illuminate kerbs? Have you got it set to continental pattern by any chance? Drives:
2010 FFRR TdV8 Vogue - Stornoway Grey
2010 FFRR TdV8 Vogue SE - Zermatt Silver
1998 BMW E36 M3 GTII

I have never checked the lever to change the driving mode, I'll do that!

Do you know if the beam adjustment lever up or down is UK as the manual does not state which. Christian.


Current Cars
2011 Range Rover Vogue SE
2020 BMW M4 Competition
2019 BMW X4

My RR Blog: www.facebook.com/L322Project
or
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic61540.html

up for UK, down for euroland..  ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
.

Now rvbush has started me off! I cant see the beam pattern in the daytime and I have just fiddled with the levers which were both in the upwards position, but that shows a flat beam pattern (as per the photos).

I'm going to have a play at night and see what pushing them down does. Christian.


Current Cars
2011 Range Rover Vogue SE
2020 BMW M4 Competition
2019 BMW X4

My RR Blog: www.facebook.com/L322Project
or
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic61540.html

My front door speakers have blown (the spider has detached from the frame) so any bass sounds like a load of loose paper flapping about.

I bought a set of reasonable cost Focal speakers (they're not 2ohm) and fitted them to replace the older H/K ones. I couldn't find 2ohm ones for less than 100 quid a set and as this is our third car, I'm not going to go mad.

They're Focal RSE-165. they came with a crossover and tweeter but I did not use either

Here's the Focal speaker next to the H/K



Desoldered the old speaker terminals and soldered in the new one




Soldering complete. Make sure you check the polarity of the speakers before fitting or you'll have phase reversed sound which will be really weird in a car with multiple speakers

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Took the RR up to North Norfolk for a few days and she performed brilliantly, her first long distance and everyday use test since I got her.

I did notice a droning at speed however and I suspected it might be the propshaft centre support bearing so as soon as we got back i got her up in the air and dropped the prop.

This looks easy on first glance but it actually required me to drop the exhaust and remove two large heat shields which were a bit of a pain.

Here's the prop off the car, you can see the support bearing in the middle.

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

That's a good result on rebuilding the prop.

I read a lot of reports from people saying that rebuilding them never works properly and chickened out and bought a new shaft!

Sticking rear calipers are also common on these cars unfortunately.

David. 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior