Wish I could just pay someone to do mine! Its a struggle to find the time to do this kind of thing. I've only got light surface rust on the front of the arch so I'm hoping its all just going to be preventative, but I really want to get it done before it gets any worse.

I did get a quote from a body shop but I don't think they would go anywhere near as far as is necessary. 2010 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE

Doing mine next week. Got a bag of spare clips from Advanced Factors, Fertran rust converter, chassis black paint, Dynax S50 for sill cavity, and traditional clear waxoyl (hand brush it) for other areas.
And I’ll be doing the Classic’s sills and rear cross member at same time
 Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
--------------------------------------------------

Jim - what wax did you use to coat the arch? Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
--------------------------------------------------

jim4244: I think a lot of us are now contemplating looking/doing the rear arches & under the inner shroud, had a look at my arch & there is slight surface rust there.
One question, you've jacked your rear up from under the rear hub rather than the 'BMW style' rectangular jacking point......any reason for this?
I have a new Sealey 2ton trolley jack ready for the job, but unbelievably, crap scared of jacking her up  2012 Orkney Grey Westminster 4.4TDV8 with Ivory interior.........nice!
Alfa Romeo Giulietta
Just one Montesa now, 349 White Wonder
Austin A40 Farina MK2
1975 Morris Marina 1.8TC

I've just done mine on my 2003, previous owner had had the surface rust done in the door shut / arch and it was just showing through again.

When I took all the trim off, it was a right mess, my little hammer wend straight through the sil, passenger side was worse.

Had to do a fair bit of welding in the end. Don't be afraid to test it with a small hammer - the MOT man wont!

Fox889 wrote:

jim4244: I think a lot of us are now contemplating looking/doing the rear arches & under the inner shroud, had a look at my arch & there is slight surface rust there.
One question, you've jacked your rear up from under the rear hub rather than the 'BMW style' rectangular jacking point......any reason for this?
I have a new Sealey 2ton trolley jack ready for the job, but unbelievably, crap scared of jacking her up

DrRob wrote:

Doing mine next week. Got a bag of spare clips from Advanced Factors, Fertran rust converter, chassis black paint, Dynax S50 for sill cavity, and traditional clear waxoyl (hand brush it) for other areas.
And I’ll be doing the Classic’s sills and rear cross member at same time

Do you have the part number for the clips? (I'm too lazy to go look it up )

Read the whole thread. There’s a link to the clips  Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
--------------------------------------------------

Re jacking I tend to jack on either the chassis or the rear subframe.

I used a 3 ton jack to raise the car up and then lowered onto axle stands. I also alway always slide any wheel I have removed under the vehicle. In the photos I have 2 axle stands positioned, both wheels under the side beams of the chassis and a 2 ton and a 3 ton just touching the rear subframe as back ups.

I used a couple of tins of this on the wheel arches.

DrRob wrote:

Read the whole thread. There’s a link to the clips

D'oh!

Hang on before ordering those clips until I’ve taken my covers off. I’m not convinced they are correct but will confirm soon  Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
--------------------------------------------------

BMG wrote:

the lower two piece clips ( the ones where you are inserting a pin to expand ) .

Scrivets.

I think I now have the correct part numbers from a Facebook post that Matt Stevenson has done Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
--------------------------------------------------

These are the correct fit for the plastic rivet type that run underneath.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/190801217540