A few folks on here have experienced a leaking rear washer motor which results in dirty brown water on the inside of the back window and onto the parcel shelf, so rather than replace the entire motor, and referencing other "how to's" on here, I've come up with a much cheaper alternative!

Credits to those other pioneers will be as I go along!

Parts Required
==========

10x16x4 Radial Oil Seal - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10x16x4mm-Metric...2568bea0f8 - Thanks to user adara for this lead.
Costs the princely sum of £1.50 + P&P!

This is what it looks like :-

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Neat repair job

Damnit!

My repair cost 100x more ! Discovery 4 HSE
1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF
1982 Series 3 Hard Top

*Gone:L462 D5 HSE LUX, L663 Defender 110 HSE, Discovery 3 HSE, 2014MY Range Rover Sport 5.0 Supercharged AB Dynamic; L405 Exec Vogue SE 4.4, 5.0 Supercharged Autobiography, Defender TDCi XS CSW, Defender TD5 HT, Vogue SE TDV8, Vogue TD6, RRSport SC 4.2V8, Classic 3.9 Vogue Auto, Land Rover Series 3 SWB

Excellent howto and repair  .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Cheers Alan

Now I can get the washer I can finish the repair to mine

I used araldite to get mine back on though but I reckon the washer looks like it could be squeezed into the slot thru the hole so for £2 I'll give it a punt as at the minute the pipe is disconnected and just dumps the water under the spoiler

Just need to get some kits sorted now with the screws in as small screws are always hard to find.. FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

It's not actually a washer, so it's not flexible, which is why you need to remove the washer inlet to put it in place, but it's not that difficult!  Got - 2017 SDV8 Autobiography in Loire Blue
Had- 2008 TDV8 Vogue SE in Java black
Had - 2007 S/C in Stornoway Grey

Just to add to that excellent "How-To"

If anyone thinks they will never have to do this........WRONG. It will happen, it's only a matter of time. And one of the biggest reasons it happens is the poorly designed washer jet location. It only needs one of the two jets to block and the resulting pressure fills the wiper motor with slimy gunk. Two preventative measures.
1. Once a year remove the wiper arm and clean the jets out. Whilst it's off pump a few litres through the pipework to flush it through.
2. Do this modification to protect your (stupidly expensive) wiper motor.

It goes without saying that you use a decent screenwash all the time.

kingpleb wrote:

Cheers Alan

Now I can get the washer I can finish the repair to mine

I used araldite to get mine back on though but I reckon the washer looks like it could be squeezed into the slot thru the hole so for £2 I'll give it a punt as at the minute the pipe is disconnected and just dumps the water under the spoiler

Just need to get some kits sorted now with the screws in as small screws are always hard to find..

I've found these screws on the Bay - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-5mm-x-6mm-Self...2a190bef88

I know it's to buy 50 pcs, but they're still as cheap as chips!  Got - 2017 SDV8 Autobiography in Loire Blue
Had- 2008 TDV8 Vogue SE in Java black
Had - 2007 S/C in Stornoway Grey

in the wiki now...  ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
.

If anyone happens to have a spare washer inlet could you let me know. My washer/wiper is good except for the washer inlet bit where the pipe goes on being broken off. 

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Thanks for the 'how to' alanm_3.

I have done this repair today on mine and now have a working rear washer!

A few things I came across:

Rear wiper arm was a PITA to remove as it was caught up on the thread on the drive spindle. Took two of us to get it off with some considerable persuasion required.

After splitting the assembly, the drive spindle was very coroded and heavily pitted which, coupled with the fact that with the old seal had gone hard, was what was causing the leak as the seal had nothing to seal against!

After replacing the old seal the unit was still leaking due to the spindle so I put another seal in so that it was located at a different position on the spindle where there was no corrosion, and reassembled. Problem solved. With this in mind it may be best to leave the old seal in place and put the new one on top of it depending on the condition of the spindle.

If the screw heads are too large they catch on the 'cam' inside the assembly and stop the mechanism from working so I filed the heads back so they were in clearance.


It took a bit longer than anticipated but pleased its now working. Finally I have spare washers and screws if anybody wants me to send them a 'kit'. I have 5 spare washers and 996 screws!!

Excellent write-up!

Better sort a repair kit out. Si. <This is my name.

I eat rat poison.

A man ain't truly been insulted until he stands buck naked in front of a woman and she didn't even notice. Or care.

alanm_3

Its so much easier to hand over £140 and just bolt in a new one!  Discovery 4 HSE
1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF
1982 Series 3 Hard Top

*Gone:L462 D5 HSE LUX, L663 Defender 110 HSE, Discovery 3 HSE, 2014MY Range Rover Sport 5.0 Supercharged AB Dynamic; L405 Exec Vogue SE 4.4, 5.0 Supercharged Autobiography, Defender TDCi XS CSW, Defender TD5 HT, Vogue SE TDV8, Vogue TD6, RRSport SC 4.2V8, Classic 3.9 Vogue Auto, Land Rover Series 3 SWB

Only if you're rich!  Got - 2017 SDV8 Autobiography in Loire Blue
Had- 2008 TDV8 Vogue SE in Java black
Had - 2007 S/C in Stornoway Grey