right the rear subframe is finally done.

the tool worked pretty well, am sure i coulda made life easier for it by drilling out the fasteners but i just went for it.

whether they last or are decent since not LR who knows.

There was questions of them being slack, these ones we're tight af both front and back so no worries there.

it maybe time for me to man up and finally tackle the control arms. Its actually a sport

Not anymore, 4.4 TDV8 now

hmm lower control arm came off okay, the upper though turns out you need to drop the subframe, balls should have just done it yayday.

can someone clarify exactly what this means for my sanity please?

"CAUTION: Only tighten the nuts and bolts when the suspension is in the normal drive position."



i assume its as it sounds, but how am I supposed to get to the bolts I need to drop the subframe to loosen but when tightening Its actually a sport

Not anymore, 4.4 TDV8 now

right all done, once i dropped the subframe it was actually all rather easy.

but then came the toe link, to start with the height sensor wire was glued to it, and the bolts we're all basically .

to make life easier i just left that alone and unbolted the entire bracket.

turns out its not a 9mm socket like i hammered in but some allen.

ah wells its out.

also to make life easier I'd keep the subframe dropped. this gave me a ton of space to get to the toe link nut.

but the toe link was just seized, it happily "adjusted" but wouldnt come undone, ended up rounding it on the impact.

in the end i whipped out a saw then grind and cut it off. no big deal as i bought new bolts for everything but still.

everything on the left side is off. also i removed the halfshaft, i didnt want it dangling and tbf it came out super easily

i am tempted to replace its CV joint for a new one. i dont want to come to installing it into the new hub and a general nightmare ensue.

but ive seen an entire eurospare half shaft for 100quid. so we'll see.

all in all now just waiting on the blasting cabinet to blast the control arms/calipers and the parts from LR.

then i guess copy paste onto the other side.

i am wondering if it would have been easier to just drop the entire subframe.

i chickened out since I didnt wanna mess with the prop shaft at the side of a road.

ah wells Its actually a sport

Not anymore, 4.4 TDV8 now

So LR have said the rear disc dust shields are on back order and no stock anywhere...fml Its actually a sport

Not anymore, 4.4 TDV8 now

managed to get off the other knuckle/hub out other day.

also got to blasting the caliper i had started and some of the upper control arm.

turns out the other side caliper is the one that had seized completely and it threw off the wear sensor.

piston seems wedged in completely atm. Its actually a sport

Not anymore, 4.4 TDV8 now

If you have removed the Caliper from the car fit a suitable grease nipple to an open port and pump grease in, not failed yet for me. Kevin
2012 L322 Westminster 4.4 TDV8
1999 P38A 4.0 SE - Sold

everything is off the car now

ill give that a go thanks

the other caliper has now been sandblasted and i'll prime once the weather turns a bit here.

i really want to clean up the rust around the dust shield part, but i dont dare sand blast it.

also ordered some borg and beck cv joints. the old ones are not looking great, while they ain't oem we'll see how they last.

someones also been in there and changed atleast 1 of them since it has a different clamp.

also now tempted to replace the parking brake cables, one of them doesnt have the hole anymore to screw it into the knuckle, all seems in a sorry state but i noticed this in the manual.

Quote:

parking brake system has completed less than 50,000 cycles it is permissible to replace the parking brake cables. If over 50,000 cycles have been completed, then the parking brake cables can only replaced as part of the parking brake actuator and cable assembly. The parking brake cycle count can be checked using the Land Rover approved diagnostic system, (ON/OFF = 1 cycle). If a parking brake cable becomes detached whilst the vehicle is being driven, a 'parking brake actuator unblocking procedure' may be required using the Land Rover approved diagnostic system. If a parking brake cable breaks then the complete parking brake actuator and cable assembly should be replaced.

Ill need to check mine but is it because it assumes the cables are more or less impossible to remove?

Mine is working completely fine. Its actually a sport

Not anymore, 4.4 TDV8 now

Epson Green wrote:

If you have removed the Caliper from the car fit a suitable grease nipple to an open port and pump grease in, not failed yet for me.

this so much.

i spent an hour with an air compressor at about 100psi with nothing and managed to actually get a seal.

i order and hook up a grease gun and boom, straight out, no dramas.

also debushed one of the upper control arms.

it was a bit of a nightmare, bent my rod, but then a quick blast with some heat and away we go Its actually a sport

Not anymore, 4.4 TDV8 now

i noticed when reinstalling the bushes for an upper control arm that the holes in them can take an M16 which stock could only take M14. Its actually a sport

Not anymore, 4.4 TDV8 now

got the other side all stripped down as well.

although i am struggling to get the lower control arm bushes pressed in, they seem hard af.

but atleast they are all refurbed. Its actually a sport

Not anymore, 4.4 TDV8 now

well went away drinking and eating in naples so havent had a chance to work on this.

but got the other control arms bushes out and the refurbed lower control arm bushes fully pressed in.

it was just a matter of me and my brother and the sleeve kit and thread.

also finished refurbing the brake calipers. fresh pistons/seals/dust caps etc etc.

supposedly LR have the shields ready as well so will have to grab them

whats more or less left is basically strip down the right side control arms and knuckle from all the rust so a big copy paste.

then I can finally press in the new hubs then its a massive of reassembly.

then replace things like brake lines and anti roll bar bushes.

am shocked it hasnt fall off the jack stands  Its actually a sport

Not anymore, 4.4 TDV8 now

Just catching up on this now, it’ll be well worth it when you’ve finished. The 2007 car I did this to felt like a new car after I’d finished it. 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2007 Range Rover Supercharged in Java Black with Ivory Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior

I was mostly inspired by your subframe drop.

unfortunately can't go that far(looks like good fun) but am hoping this'll basically see the car out to the end of its days. Its actually a sport

Not anymore, 4.4 TDV8 now

edit: i accidently deleted my original post, id written something that more or less went like

the meyle bushes are M16 bolts rather than M14 like stock.

using the HN1 and HB5 from here

https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/p...and-rover/

would sort it.

also the new type of nuts would mean I wouldn't have to drop the subframe to torque them

problem is the subframe only accepts M14s.

edit: i ended up using the new type of nuts but had to order new bolts to match so both M14.

it meant i didnt need to drop the subframe to torque, it was massively helpful.

but torquing the upper arm was a bit of a nightmare anyways because getting a torque wrench in with the half shaft in is hard so id recommend doing it when the half shaft isnt in. Its actually a sport

Not anymore, 4.4 TDV8 now

Last edited by mgrover on 1st Jun 2024 12:04pm. Edited 5 times in total

mgrover,

I will be changing my rear subframe mounting bushes this summer. Where did you purchase the removal /fitting kit and 24mm ratchet ring spanner from? -----------------------
RR Vogue 4.4 TDV8 2011 - Galway Green
Kia Sorento 2.5 CDi 2007 - Bright Silver