Fox wrote:

Vogue wrote:

ha ha, yes been there done that, very good use of a RR to get a baby to sleep

Didn't work for us, it was too smooth!
Had to use the Defender, getting bounced about all over the place did the trick.

Trist78 wrote:

Why is it a dealer cant even clean a car without scratching it ???

Because the plum doing it doesn't care , it's a low paid basic job washing some posh nob's car. (IMO)

Yup my IIa with the Jag lump in and side exit exhaust had the same effect Its in the blood

As for what I did with my FFRR.. trod on the FFRR OE mats that are currently in the Pathfinder
and moved the knackered steering wheel motor / paperweight across the computer desk. 2010 Disco XS TDV6, 2009 Freelander 2 GS

Previous Landrover products -1990 110 TDI CSW, 2003 TD6 Vogue - RRC TD Vogue, RRC v8 Fleetline, Disco ES V8 LPG, 101 Ambulance "Morph", 1964 SIIa Auto Powered by Jag 4.2 Lump - "Percy".

Trist78 wrote:

The FF came back from the steelers with the diagnosis of the two breathers requiring a change !!!

I was bang on thanks to the forum!

The decided to wash it as well!! I went mad Ive only started detailing the rangie and now it has more swirl marks!!!

Why is it a dealer cant even clean a car without scratching it ???

Make sure they change the four breathers, they won't want to do the lower two, but they will need doing... 

dan_uk_1984 wrote:

Trist78 wrote:

The FF came back from the steelers with the diagnosis of the two breathers requiring a change !!!

I was bang on thanks to the forum!

The decided to wash it as well!! I went mad Ive only started detailing the rangie and now it has more swirl marks!!!

Why is it a dealer cant even clean a car without scratching it ???

Make sure they change the four breathers, they won't want to do the lower two, but they will need doing...

PITA to change and would be hard for you to check.

Took the dog out in mine today after changing the rear discs and pads.

Because they are REALLY difficult. The one off the cyclone is hard, but the one on the bottom of the PCV valve itself is nearly impossible. Some garages insist on taking the inlet manifold off to get enough room, and that's not a road you want to go down! 

dan_uk_1984 wrote:

Because they are REALLY difficult. The one off the cyclone is hard, but the one on the bottom of the PCV valve itself is nearly impossible. Some garages insist on taking the inlet manifold off to get enough room, and that's not a road you want to go down!

Nope, what sort of crazy do you think I am!?

I've done the top two myself and they are a peice of cake. I need to do the lower two, which I will use my cheap local mechanic. But not this one:
http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic1786.html

So my last forray into getting this changed didn't work out so well! I ended up having to replace the whole valve and everything :'( 

Hang on a minute - According to your profile you have a TD6! You don't have a PCV system! 

dan_uk_1984 wrote:

Nope, what sort of crazy do you think I am!?

I've done the top two myself and they are a peice of cake. I need to do the lower two, which I will use my cheap local mechanic. But not this one:
http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic1786.html

So my last forray into getting this changed didn't work out so well! I ended up having to replace the whole valve and everything :'(

Looked dejectedly at the "service due" message on the TFT

It's booked in for next Wednesday - so that will be £450 for the service, £400 for the brakes, £1200 for the tyres no doubt  Land Rover Addict
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2009 5.0V8SC Autobiography
2006 4.2V8SC Autobiography
2004 4.4V8 Vogue

I do most things myself - just some jobs are worth paying someone else to do if you know what I mean!

There is nothing on the service schedule that you cant DIY. With the exception of the gearbox oil which must be done every 50-60,000 (regardless of if the garage tell you they are "sealed for life" - that is the life of the warranty) 

dan_uk_1984 wrote:

I do most things myself - just some jobs are worth paying someone else to do if you know what I mean!

There is nothing on the service schedule that you cant DIY. With the exception of the gearbox oil which must be done every 50-60,000 (regardless of if the garage tell you they are "sealed for life" - that is the life of the warranty)

Personally I tend not to use genuine, I've never found LR parts particularly good quality and got fed up with every time I bought an oil filter it was blatantly made by a different manufacturer - usually whichever would knock them out cheapest I guess.

For air filters I would stick with genuine, but oil filter I go with K&N these days as they are the same price as LR. For brake pads I go for cheap ones as they tend to be softer it means you go through pads rather than discs... Fluids I usually buy whatever is on offer, I use Carlube oil but change it twice as often (summer and winter grade) I've never changed anti-freeze, something always bursts and dumps the coolant yearly anyway! 

dan_uk_1984 wrote:

Personally I tend not to use genuine, I've never found LR parts particularly good quality and got fed up with every time I bought an oil filter it was blatantly made by a different manufacturer - usually whichever would knock them out cheapest I guess.

For air filters I would stick with genuine, but oil filter I go with K&N these days as they are the same price as LR. For brake pads I go for cheap ones as they tend to be softer it means you go through pads rather than discs... Fluids I usually buy whatever is on offer, I use Carlube oil but change it twice as often (summer and winter grade) I've never changed anti-freeze, something always bursts and dumps the coolant yearly anyway!

Yup, I get everything off The Bay!