Actually, I did originally replace the split hose with a genuine LR item so I had the original o/s hose and a new genuine on the n/s.

Noticed the car drove crap straight away so I assumed the new hose wasnt sealing/was defective and ordered the silicone ones

Are you just changing/checking the hoses or do you disconnect the battery or something else?

I know you did a smoke test but is it possible there may be a crack in the plastic, either end of the hose connections? 2007 3.6 TDV8

I can imagine how infuriating this is. Clearly something is being disturbed. Methodically check the multiplugs for good connections especially around the area of the split hose. Could something stupid like a mist of oil on a connection. A small break in wire. Its strange there are no codes though. 2007 Vogue TDV8 in Zermatt Silver with Charcoal

Cheezels,

In the case of yesterdays tinkering I fully removed and repLaced the upper intercooler hoses and the n/s turbo to intercooler hose (lower hose)

Nothing else was touched!

Grofus, I will remove and clean all connectors with isopropyl alcohol tomorrow evening and refit checking they are making a good connection.

Perhaps remove each of the 3 hoses with a drive test between each successive hose to close-in on the area being disturbed that temporarily solves the issue, starting with the lower turbo hose.

Leave the plastic engine cover off and see how you go. Maybe it’s squishing summat 2007 3.6 TDV8

GraemeS wrote:

Perhaps remove each of the 3 hoses with a drive test between each successive hose to close-in on the area being disturbed that temporarily solves the issue, starting with the lower turbo hose.

This sounds like the old issue you would get on 200 and 300 TDI Discovery engines. De-lamination of the interior of a hose. At idle you are putting ZERO load on the turbos, there will be no appreciable boost. When driving that all changes and if you have a hose that is being 'sucked' from the inside and restricting airflow you'll get sluggish response. The fact you are getting no codes make me think the issue is further along the induction system - engine codes will be generated if the readings from the MAF and MAP don't correlate. If the issue is further up, the codes won't occur. There are two hoses (at the back of the engine) - very short ones - it is possible that one of these is causing an issue. I haven't tried to take these off so can't vouch for how difficult it may be - but they are easily accessible.

Hope this helps..... Land Rover Addict
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That is helpful DMRR, I have already checked the 2 short hoses at the rear of the manifold for splits by loosening the jubilee clips and rotating the hoses whilst in position. I have also removed and checked the 2 90 degree hoses at the front LR and RH of the manifold.

Obviously this wouldn't highlight a de laminating hose.

Will mess a bit more tonight after seeing the dentist

A delaminating turbo to i/c hose on my TD5 D2 caused copious amounts of black smoke and choked the engine until it was stopped to allow the layer to spring back, never recovering under load. However only slight delamination might not have such a drastic effect.

Ok, I think we are getting somewhere.. where exactly I do not know!

Ive tested removal and refitting of the hoses one by one.

I have confirmed the removal and re installation of the n/s intercooler to inlet manifold hose causes the RR to drive better, a noticeable difference straight away. (Again, I imagine it will drive crap tomorrow)

When I say removal and re installation I mean physically removing the hose, placing it in the passenger footwell, waiting 10 minutes then reinstalling.

Here's a video of SDD after the hose removal routine, taken whilst the car is driving nice.

&feature=youtu.be

Next time that you remove that hose, look closely at both ends looking for any signs of oil oozing out from between the layers. However next time you remove that hose you might be fitting a new one.

Graeme,

The hose im referring to is a new silicone one I fitted in November.

You have jogged my memory in that I thought I had fixed it when i fitted these silicone hoses and I had just assumed the new genuine LR hose wasnt sealing properly. It was then back to driving crap the next day.

So that backs up my thoughts about removing and refitting the hose improving driveability for a short time.

I must be missing something in that area of the engine bay.

Sorry mariana, I’m a little confused.

Are you saying you’ve replaced the two air cooler outlet hoses with silicone ones, and both air cooler inlet hoses with silicone ones as well? 2007 3.6 TDV8

Has rubber material been blown from the old hose and restricting flow. Throttle body for instance.
What I cant fathom is why simply removing the hose and refitting it sorts the issue for a short time. 2007 Vogue TDV8 in Zermatt Silver with Charcoal