After a recent full service the "Oil Service Due" warning appeared accompanied by the Engine Management Light, which I'm hoping was there to alert me to an oil change (supposedly) being due.

I went back to the garage and they brought out their diagnostics kit to reset the Oil Service Light.
After much faffing about trying to reset, which included updating the software for my 2006 4.2SC to 2006 then 2007 and then 2005, the tech decided to disconnect the battery to reset the oil warning.

Now to the bit that is bugging me.
I also had the gearbox oil and filter changed and before the car had the service the gear changes were seamless, lovely and smooth. Since the car was serviced, I had noticed a slight clunk from the gearbox each time I drew to a halt.
However, since the software updates and battery disconnection, the downwards changes are more noticeable to the point that it is disconcerting and downright irritating!

Am I correct in thinking that a the gearbox has got its wires slightly crossed since the updates and will need resetting at the garage, or (as with Mercedes-Benz vehicles) I can reset and then the box can re-learn out on the open road?


I'm sure not all service indicators can be reset if the car is not at the main dealer, so I'll give the benefit of the doubt on that one, although if I owned a garage, I'd make sure the reset was done by hook or by crook - it just doesn't make sense to have paying customers raising their eyebrows IMHO.

Any help or opinions greatly appreciated.

After a gearbox oil change, the adaptive values should be reset, so the box can relearn all its values/pressures/ratios

Disconnecting the battery does not reset anything, so the gearbox will adapt (eventually)

However, it should not have made anything clunky. It may be worth double checking the oil level

Is the correct oil in? You don't say if it's main dealer or other? My last cars fear change improved hugely after oil change so definitely shouldn't have made it worse, even with a reset. My Previous RR's!
2018 P400e Autobiography
2008 TDV8 Vogue
2006 TD6 Vogue
2007 TDV8 Vogue
2007 RRS (I know, it doesn't count!)
2005 4.4 Vogue on LPG
2005 TD6 Vogue
2003 4.4 Vogue
2001 4.6 HSE
2000 2.5 DHSE
1999 4.6 HSE
1997 4.6 HSE on LPG
1995 2.5 DSE
1989 3.9 EFI classic
1988 3.5 EFI classic

Mikey wrote:

After a gearbox oil change, the adaptive values should be reset, so the box can relearn all its values/pressures/ratios

While trying to find out what the 3-4 shift problem with my 4.2 was, I also reset the adaptive values to see if that made any difference. It did but not in a good way, the shifting became quite unpleasant until the run-in sequence was completed (it is still in my gearbox post thanks to RRPhil). After the run-in sequence the box will shift a lot better then just after the reset and within a few days/weeks it is smooth as, well once the problem was sorted that is.

Since the resolution we thought was best at the time, all solenoids were replaced and therefore I reset the adaptive values again to let the box learn the new solenoid behaviour. Again the run-in sequence was driven (only takes 10 mins or so) and the box was fine again within days.

I agree with Craig there is no reason (nor instruction from JLR/ZF) saying you have to reset the adaptive values, that is something to be done after a major job on the box (like solenoid replacement).

My guess is that the re-flashing of the ECU (always use the latest programming for that box, on mine it helped as well getting the latest software into the ECU) the adaptive values were either reset due to the programming or by the person doing the programming. But going to an older version software is not the way to go. I'm wondering whether this guy was actually clued on in what is going on. Maybe he even loaded the wrong software. Using the Faultmate, you can only load the relevant (and latest according to BBS) software for your specific ECU. Maybe you should get the ECU reflashed again with another outfit, like a MD or a Landrover Indy with the proper gear, just to be sure. I would also like to suggest to have the motor management ECU to be reflashed with the latest software, it made heaps of difference to my car

If the box is not shifting properly, there is a problem, fluid level seems the most likely culprit considering the work that was done.

By the way, the most current solution for the 3-4 shift problem is replacing only one solenoid and not the entire lot (we were just starting to find out what it was and a total replacement wasn't too expensive). EDS4 if I remember correctly but please check my other post on the actual problem, where RRPhil gave the update.

Resetting the service counters can be done with the T4 Testbook of JLR, the Faultmate of BBS and I'm pretty sure with the IID tool as well (since I don't have one, I'm not sure but do expect it can do it). I bet there are other systems that can do it but don't know for sure. Disconnecting the battery does not reset the service counter, only the EML if I remember correctly (but that comes back soon if the problem is still around). MY 2010 5.0 SC Galway green and sand interior!!
Have the Faultmate MSV2 Extreme to be tinkering with the settings etc. !!

If you reset the adaptions on a worn gearbox even without an oil change, you run the risk of it self destructing anyway

When flushing gearboxes, there are many factors to take into account before you even connect the machine up to the car.
Fault codes, live data, mileage eye all have to be considered. Indeed, flushing a gearbox can make matters worse, and finish off a gearbox.
I have turned down quite a few gearbox flushes on these cars, due to potential problems down the line


That said, on the vehicle owners instructions, I have flushed a number of gearboxes that I had no hope for, and all of them report a vast improvement in gearchange, and general driveability...


Anyway, to your "issues" with my post...

The viscosity of the new oil is different to old oil, you are correct. And a reset of adaptive values does clear the gearbox memory, whether it has had an oil change or not...

After a reset, the gearbox then DOESN'T see the difference in pressures, and adapts to them, instead of expecting "X" pressure, and seeing "Y", which then WILL cause the gearbox to self destruct

And all of my customers are warned to drive a certain way after a flush and reset. By not following these instructions, you can cause much, much bigger issues yourself...

Tell me again Craig, how you "specialise" in these cars?
That's duff info you have been giving out on EGR issues, Turbo issues, and now, Gearbox issues

Many thanks for the replies so far.

The service was carried out by an indy who shall remain nameless (for now).

How do I check the oil level, please?

i learnt this when i reset my gearbox adaption settings, ended up having a new recon gearbox i wouldn't advise anyone to reset this on a worn gearbox.

Dave The difference between theory and reality is that in theory it will work.

Engine running, gearbox oil temperature between 30-35 degrees, and undo the filler plug on the side of the gearbox.

8mm hex to undo, on the O/S of the gearbox, right at the back, just above the sump line

There should be a slight dribble of oil come out. Obviously, if there is no oil coming out,it will need topped up

When I had my transmission serviced at mackies a few weeks back I forgot to ask if they reset any software etc. But I think they may have. The car drives pretty much the same as before however the 2-1 rollout shift doesn't happen atol anymore. Before I had the service done my driving had adjusted to avoid this issue when at junctions etc but was sometimes unavoidable. But since after the service I have just drove as normal, actually almost trying to make the car do it and it just won't, problem seems to be completely gone and as far as I can tell it can only be software changes that could have sorted this as surely just new fluid wouldn't have that effect ? Range Rover Vogue 2006 4.4 AJV8 | Buckingham Blue | Parchment Leather | Supercharged Grill+Side Vents | CA02 HEY ( NOT 02 PLATE )

Not wanting to hi jack the thread but this is a very relevant post for me. Car is now at 120,000 and no gearbox issues so should I run the risk of getting the oil changed and flushed. ? Re the jerk from 2 to 1 st I have had this on at least two FFRRs where this has been present. So are you sure it wasn't there before and you have only just noticed ? 2013 L405 AB 4.4SDV8 Luxor/Ivory, 2007 Vogue TDV8 Epson Green/Sand, 2008 Vogue TDV8 Buckingham Blue/Sand, 2003 Vogue 4.4 LPG Epsom Green/Sage, 1998 Vogue SE 4.6 LPG Epsom Green/Cream

I was in the same position as yourself exept a little less miles (90k). I would say go for it but its one of these things its imperative that you put it in somewhere they know exactly what they are doing. From the research I done I came to the conclusion that if there is problems after a gearbox service its either not been done correctly or the owner has problems before hand and are led to belive a service/flush will cure the box, then the new fluid etc just finishes off the already faulty unit.

Luckily Mackie Transmissions are a 10 minuet drive from me. Guys definetly know their stuff and im very happy with the service they provided.

As for the 2-1 roll out shift what I was saying was I had it before the service and now its is gone  Range Rover Vogue 2006 4.4 AJV8 | Buckingham Blue | Parchment Leather | Supercharged Grill+Side Vents | CA02 HEY ( NOT 02 PLATE )

Tell me again Craig, how you "specialise" in these cars?
That's duff info you have been giving out on EGR issues, Turbo issues, and now, Gearbox issues



Im not here to argue with you Mickey! There is no need to be rude!

You may disagree with the information posted by me after conversing with Midland Turbo's ref to a customers "overspeed turbo" weather you agree or dis-agree with their/my findings/opinions i fail to see how informing customers to get EGR issues resolved in a timely manner is "duff info"???

BUT!!! Telling forum members its ok to reset adaptions whilst flushing/changing gearbox oil is verging on reckless! And can only damage your reputation as an "independent LR specialist"

Now let that be an end to this stupidity!

Cam-Tech-Craig wrote:

BUT!!! Telling forum members its ok to reset adaptions whilst flushing/changing gearbox oil is verging on reckless! And can only damage your reputation as an "independent LR specialist"

Mikey wrote:

When flushing gearboxes, there are many factors to take into account before you even connect the machine up to the car.
Fault codes, live data, mileage eye all have to be considered. Indeed, flushing a gearbox can make matters worse, and finish off a gearbox.
I have turned down quite a few gearbox flushes on these cars, due to potential problems down the line

Tell me again how this is reckless

It takes a trained eye to spot issues with a gearbox before a flush. If there are issues, generally, I walk away unless the customer insists on having it done, regardless of the outcome or consequences

The adaptive values SHOULD be reset after an oil change, due to:

Quote:

After a reset, the gearbox then DOESN'T see the difference in pressures, and adapts to them, instead of expecting "X" pressure, and seeing "Y", which then WILL cause the gearbox to self destruct

I have flushed over 60 ZF 6HP26 boxes now, all without issue. So what am I doing wrong?