Home > In Car Electronics (L322) > 2012 Audio quality |
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Siftah Member Since: 11 Jun 2018 Location: Barcelona Posts: 344 |
Did you replace your "mids" with actual mids, rather than just upgrading the tweeter btw?
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3rd Aug 2024 10:10am |
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RovingCanary Member Since: 20 Dec 2023 Location: Somerset Posts: 79 |
Any update on this from anyone replacing the speakers? Was looking at doing mine (I have the HD system).
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15th Nov 2024 9:38am |
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RobsterPC Member Since: 14 Oct 2024 Location: Kent Posts: 67 |
I've been pondering this. For me, the issue is that at higher volumes, the sound is more punchy with stronger bass. Lower volumes, the bass falls away. I've upped sub and bass as much as I can in the config screen but its not made much difference.
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15th Nov 2024 11:52am |
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RovingCanary Member Since: 20 Dec 2023 Location: Somerset Posts: 79 |
Hi Rob, I was talking about the door woofers, I probably won't touch the sub as it seems no easy replacements. Just wondering about the mids woofer near the door release if I don't change.
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17th Nov 2024 5:00pm |
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MSwiss Member Since: 11 Nov 2024 Location: Lausanne & Warwickshire Posts: 9 |
Jumping on the bandwagon with this thread. Picked my L322 2011 on Friday, there’s a strange high pitch squeal on certain frequencies. Has anyone else experienced this ?
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17th Nov 2024 8:48pm |
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RobsterPC Member Since: 14 Oct 2024 Location: Kent Posts: 67 |
Can't help with the squeal but my experience with the Invery wasn't great. I had to pair with the car first, then connect the Invery then connect to that. It was hit and miss until it finally connected then it made it every time. |
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17th Nov 2024 9:37pm |
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MSwiss Member Since: 11 Nov 2024 Location: Lausanne & Warwickshire Posts: 9 |
My invery has connected to the phone but the car keeps displaying “device error “ I’ve tried all the fixes but can’t make it work. I’ve ordered a bovee unit to see if that’s any different.
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17th Nov 2024 9:47pm |
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RovingCanary Member Since: 20 Dec 2023 Location: Somerset Posts: 79 |
My Invery was picky at first, took a few attempts to work, once it did it connected flawlessly as soon as I got into the car... Until last week when it only sent out right hand channel. Have emailed for warranty repair!
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18th Nov 2024 8:01am |
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Siftah Member Since: 11 Jun 2018 Location: Barcelona Posts: 344 |
I suspect the amp has less channels than there are speakers, especially in the HD version. There'll be a mixture of passive crossovers and likely work done in the DSP. On the none-HD version (the one I have), the front door speakers have the mids and tweeters on the same channel but using a passive crossover inline with the tweeters. I have no idea on the setup for the HD version, but I would expect it to be similar in that there's passive crossovers used to drive multiple speakers from a single channel on the amp. |
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18th Nov 2024 2:59pm |
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Siftah Member Since: 11 Jun 2018 Location: Barcelona Posts: 344 |
This is what Sam did in his video, you could drive the existing sub using a different amp which would give you more amplification to it. It looked to be pretty cheap to get hold of an old sub box and upgrade the speaker too though, well worth watching his video. |
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18th Nov 2024 3:01pm |
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RovingCanary Member Since: 20 Dec 2023 Location: Somerset Posts: 79 |
Thanks siftah, so if mine has a passive crossover, logic suggests you would still maintain the same frequency distribution across all three cones, you just might miss a little bit of the new cone capabilities through the mid. |
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18th Nov 2024 3:06pm |
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Siftah Member Since: 11 Jun 2018 Location: Barcelona Posts: 344 |
The problem with this approach is you're EQ'ing across 2 channels only, whereas the on-board amp and dsp is likely to be at least 6 channels (as it's 5.1). It might even have 8 or 10 channels to feed the 14 or 19 speakers in these cars. Passive crossovers are definitely used for the mids and tweeters up front, I'd expect similar setups in the rear. The connection between the head-unit and the DSP is digital, going over MOST and is (AFAIK) 5.1 channels when playing video and probably just 4 channels when playing audio sources. What the DSP applies after that is going to be anyone's guess, but it'll be tuned specifically for the OEM drivers and their placement within the car, likely adding time delay as well as crossovers being set. IMHO, there's three routes to improve the audio in these, in order of increasing impact; 1) Replace the speakers, with the hope that 10 year newer drivers with more sensitivity will improve the sound quality. 2) Replace the sub + amp, which will give you the ability to increase the bass volume, but not necessarily improve the overall sound quality much. 3) Rip out the amp and DSP and replace with a new 8 channel+ amp and DSP so you can really tweak it all to your preferences, after having already done 1+2. If you go the full amp+dsp route, you'll want to get an amp that can accept a digital signal over MOST, of which I only know of the Mobridge. If you don't want to go the Mobridge route then you'll likely need to swap out the original head unit (losing the OBC functionality) to something which has a 4 channel output over RCA. Upside of replacing the amp+dsp is also that you can potentially use more common 4 ohm speakers, which will lower the cost of replacing the speakers and give you a much wider range of choices. |
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18th Nov 2024 3:13pm |
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Siftah Member Since: 11 Jun 2018 Location: Barcelona Posts: 344 |
The source from the head unit to the DSP+Amp is digital, so your squeal must be being picked up somewhere between the amp and the speakers themselves. Look for a source of inteference would be my guess. If you're using AUX-In, then it will also be Analogue from the AUX socket to the ADC in the head unit, so there's potentially also a source of inteference along that path - is the inteference there from a CD or the Radio? |
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18th Nov 2024 3:15pm |
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Siftah Member Since: 11 Jun 2018 Location: Barcelona Posts: 344 |
Yes, exactly, or you can remove the passive crossover and replace with another one that you control (usually supplied in the kit). The problem is that the channel as a whole may have had a crossover applied in the DSP attached to the amp, that you couldn't do anything about. So realistically if your new mid-bass drivers go lower than the OEM ones, you'll never take advantage of that. In all likelihood, the range set for that channel is likely to be from mid-bass upwards, the crossover point between the tweeter and mid-range in the door will fixed based on the new tweeter+mid-range driver you install and their supplied crossovers. (FWIW, when I installed the Focals I retained the OEM crossovers and as per the charts I posted earlier in the thread, the sound profile looks fine still) |
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18th Nov 2024 3:21pm |
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