The mids are a pig to do, they are plastic welded into the doorcards, not so straightforward to swap them…the others are an easy swap.

Did you replace your "mids" with actual mids, rather than just upgrading the tweeter btw?

Do you know if that speaker is actually receiving a signal that makes it worthwhile, as in, it could be the DSP is used to set a crosover that makes it only receive higher frequencies, rather than a full range, do you know if that's the case?

Any update on this from anyone replacing the speakers? Was looking at doing mine (I have the HD system).
It looks like a branded 2 way component speaker system is approximately the same price as 2 OEM woofers, hopefully would be higher quality.

I am not sure where that leaves you with the mid woofer. Although I expect a 2 way set would cover all the frequencies, it looks like the crossovers are all set within the head unit, so need to use all three. I cannot find any aftermarket mods, so appears running n aftermarket tweeter and woofer, and keep stock mid woofer, is the best way...

I've been pondering this. For me, the issue is that at higher volumes, the sound is more punchy with stronger bass. Lower volumes, the bass falls away. I've upped sub and bass as much as I can in the config screen but its not made much difference.

Like you, I was thinking about pulling out the sub and replacing it with something else including a separate amp so that I can better tweak the settings. That got me thinking, has anyone tried using a simple mono digital amp to drive the existing sub, so that you can increase the bass level and have more control? Replacing the speakers, especialy the sub, is hard unless you start fully customising sub housings to fit anything larger than a 6.5" speaker into the existing location. Something that can take a high level input can simply take the existing speaker feed and drive the exising sub.

Hi Rob, I was talking about the door woofers, I probably won't touch the sub as it seems no easy replacements. Just wondering about the mids woofer near the door release if I don't change.

On your point on bass control, if an Android user, worth trying Wavelet, it EQs your Bluetooth output depending on the target. I used a pink nose generator to try to adjust the peaks and troughs, seems to sound better, and you can prevent the loose bass sound

Jumping on the bandwagon with this thread. Picked my L322 2011 on Friday, there’s a strange high pitch squeal on certain frequencies. Has anyone else experienced this ?

It’s driving me nuts listening to music. Im wondering if one of the speakers has an issue and needs replacing.

I bought a Invery also but can’t for the life of me get it to work.

Can't help with the squeal but my experience with the Invery wasn't great. I had to pair with the car first, then connect the Invery then connect to that. It was hit and miss until it finally connected then it made it every time.

My invery has connected to the phone but the car keeps displaying “device error “ I’ve tried all the fixes but can’t make it work. I’ve ordered a bovee unit to see if that’s any different.

In the squealing, I wonder if á midrange has failed…

My Invery was picky at first, took a few attempts to work, once it did it connected flawlessly as soon as I got into the car... Until last week when it only sent out right hand channel. Have emailed for warranty repair!

Not sure on the squeal, I would be tempted to try a noise generator and fade the speakers and vary frequency to identify the issues area. Sounds like you will need to use the 3.5mm input for now!

RovingCanary wrote:

it looks like the crossovers are all set within the head unit, so need to use all three.

RobsterPC wrote:

I've been pondering this. For me, the issue is that at higher volumes, the sound is more punchy with stronger bass. Lower volumes, the bass falls away. I've upped sub and bass as much as I can in the config screen but its not made much difference.

Like you, I was thinking about pulling out the sub and replacing it with something else including a separate amp so that I can better tweak the settings. That got me thinking, has anyone tried using a simple mono digital amp to drive the existing sub, so that you can increase the bass level and have more control? Replacing the speakers, especialy the sub, is hard unless you start fully customising sub housings to fit anything larger than a 6.5" speaker into the existing location. Something that can take a high level input can simply take the existing speaker feed and drive the exising sub.

Thanks siftah, so if mine has a passive crossover, logic suggests you would still maintain the same frequency distribution across all three cones, you just might miss a little bit of the new cone capabilities through the mid.

RovingCanary wrote:

Hi Rob, I was talking about the door woofers, I probably won't touch the sub as it seems no easy replacements. Just wondering about the mids woofer near the door release if I don't change.

On your point on bass control, if an Android user, worth trying Wavelet, it EQs your Bluetooth output depending on the target. I used a pink nose generator to try to adjust the peaks and troughs, seems to sound better, and you can prevent the loose bass sound

MSwiss wrote:

Jumping on the bandwagon with this thread. Picked my L322 2011 on Friday, there’s a strange high pitch squeal on certain frequencies. Has anyone else experienced this ?

It’s driving me nuts listening to music. Im wondering if one of the speakers has an issue and needs replacing.

I bought a Invery also but can’t for the life of me get it to work.

RovingCanary wrote:

Thanks siftah, so if mine has a passive crossover, logic suggests you would still maintain the same frequency distribution across all three cones, you just might miss a little bit of the new cone capabilities through the mid.