| Sprayed my RRC with rattle cans!! (20 photos) | |
A few years ago I decide the body on the old girl needed a spray so being the clever bloke I am I brought two air guns, the mother of all compressors plus base, thinners clear coat etc etc and had a go. What a mess! more orange peel than Tescos which could not be flattened.
I lived with a dull embarrassing paint job for 3 years until I could take it no more.
Having got respray quotes which would make your toes curl (£5k+) I started thinking 'It can be that hard again surely'. As one YouTuber says - "don't over think it its just paint!"
So fast forward a few days, £300.00 out of pocket - I have all the gear but still no idea.
.
Gave myself a week (all of which I needed). I decided the roof was too much of a challenge. Managed to evict my Sons project Mini R53 from the garage and started work.
First thing... bit of dismantling..
Then some masking out and set to work with 320 grit on my cheap as chips dual action thingy. (brought from the NEC for £50 years ago when proper ones were fetching £100's). Had a 125 disc with a soft interface pad. See - told you... all the gear no idea.
The past attempts at painting efforts gave no resistance at all and before I knew it we were back to factory primer plus several areas of actual aluminium!
Then it was time for a 600grit disc and some hand hold 600 grit mesh cloth before three coats of etch primer.
I was surprised just how rough the etch primer dries so a good sand down with 320 and 600 again was required.
Then commence base coat colour... first a dusting..then 3 more coats before multiple clear coats
 | | Click image to enlarge |
 | | Click image to enlarge |
 | | Click image to enlarge |
At this point photos seemed to be the last thing from my mind. I forgot to photo the additional colour coats or any of the separate black work. All black was simple alcohol cleaned and plastic primed then simple matt black sprayed. the light guards are rough but I did my best to remove rust before priming and black.
After 24 hours from clear coating I 2000 gritted the whole car. It was pis*ing down outside so that seemed the perfect conditions for wet sanding.
Then put it all back together with a bit of obligatory tyre black...
Quite pleased with the result but a concours car it aint. It used to be a 20ft car now its a 10ft car. Its difficult to show the finish but there is a decent sheen and tbh for a my second DIY attempt I'm happy as larry.
Plus an hour tarting up the engine bay..
Would I do it again? - yes it was very rewarding.
Lessons learned...
1. Check all rattle can nozzels spray well before shooting on the body and the fan pattern is good.
2. Buy stuff from specialist suppliers not Halfords etc.
3. Buy good masking tape not B&Q sh*t
4. Take your time
5. You will miss bits - dont sweat it. you can always do it again
6. You dont need a heated space - My garage was approx 15-17 degrees ambient.
7. The decals were a one shot deal. The 'Vogue' decal was not level (my bad). By the time you read this it will be gone.
8. Buy more paint than you think. I went for 1 can per panel plus 3 for the bonnet and 1 spare. I used all of it.
9. Clear coat covers far more. I still have 4 cans left!
Go for it! What can possibly go wrong.  405 AB exec seats Baltic and Cirrus
93 RR Classic efi
Remember it's easier to get forgiveness than permission!
Gone in order:
4.4 TDV8 SE - gone to a good home
93 Classic hard dash Plymouth Blue
03 L322 Oslo Blue
2000 Disco TD5 ES Epsom Green
98 P38 Rioja Red
89 Classic Cairngorm Brown
|
7th Oct 2024 7:33pm
