After fitting the weatherseal the sill plate would not go back, but it's had it anyway. I presume this is illuminated if it was working?

A win and a fail.

New air filters fitted: From left to right > RH; LH; new.
Depending on useage I reckon one could replace the LH filter at twice the mileage of the RH.

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I think I have fixed the door, fingers crossed. I RTFM more closely and I noticed a missing grommet where the three screws are that hold the latch. A peep in there is a 4mm Allen screw. I turned it fully clockwise and now the door reliably opens. The manual says wind it two turns but that does not open the door.

Coupled with the new weatherseal, the door has a more pleasing action. I need a new grommet though.

A test drive yesterday reveals a loud viscous fan and possible coolant loss. More research required.

The new rear lamp screws are much better and I sourced a decent used LH rear lamp. I decided against the Chinese eBay ones as I could not find a review on them, good or bad.

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Watching this thread with great interest. You’re a brave man and hats off to you for tackling so many jobs which is enjoyable to follow. Good luck and keep up the good work. 2012 4.4 TDV8 Vogue Santorini black ivory leather

The real fun/pain will start once I start poking about the underside

Oil change done today at 155,088 miles, though I made a meal of an easy job. My £10 Lidl oil pump would not suck a drop but I may have blundered by hooking it up to the vacuum hand pump tank and that may have been too air tight for it - not sure. Anyway, two pumps by hand and away it started. I used the same pump as Sam's M&M. 9.5 litres out/in - I had to empty the tank as it was full at 9 litres.

Costs are (everything from eBay bar the Lidl pump):

Nielsen hand pump £48
Oil from S&A £85 (enough for two changes)
Mann oil filter £16 IIRC
Lidl pump £10
36mm socket £5-ish

I checked the oil level this morning and it's one notch below maximum so all good. I reset the service required message after finding the two pedal process.

It's definitely losing coolant though, another 0.75l to top up.

The coolant bottle is nearly empty after driving around 80 miles to/from work this week. I've bought an oil analysis from Oil Labs so I'll send it off later and should have a report next week.

Have a look down under teh intake donut into the V where the oil cooler and under it the EGR cooler sits. This is where mine is loosing coolant but at a slower rate than yours. There are also examples where some of the push fittings for the coolant system are leaking due to failed O rings so that's work looking at as well. You can buy cheap USB endoscopes / borescopes to look in these tight spaces without having to remove stuff. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

Thanks JG and agreed. I have some intake work to do soon. I am thinking 4 x doughnut intake hoses, plus oil cooler gaskets/seals.

I have the oil cooler O rings and 3 x intake O rings (see Sam's M&M) but not the lower gasket seal yet.

As long as the oil report doesn't mean an offload to WBAC then I will carry out the work next month.

The oil report is in. I am not sure what to make of it just yet but this was for 10,000 miles.

If I'm reading this correctly you don't seem to have a water ingress problem as the sodium levels are way below what would indicate a problem.

Silicon levels suggest a possible air intake leak, so best look intp that, but it's not excessive.

You'd expect to have some fuel dilution but it's not calling it out as excessive.

However, your iron levels are higher than the recommended expected max so warrants further invest.

But it doesn't say how old the oil needs to be before these figures apply to, i.e. is this for oil that's done 1000 miles or 10,000.

When I worked on choppers we tested the oil daily, or every 5 hours running time and monitored the difference, this doesn't seem to have a comparison reference. Fuji White / Jet 2012 4.4 TDV8 Westminster

Change the oil and test again at the next service at the 5-7k interval most owners have settled on for higher mileage engines. Oil dilution and viscosity loss increase in rate as the DPF capacity declines from ash loading meaning shorter regeneration intervals. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

Yes, I think that is the next thing to do. Also, I think I'll undo the sump plug after suction to make sure it's empty of oil.

Right. I am off to a vilage car show near me, then a DPF run on the M4 then watch the F1.