Your engine has either a current or historical oil cooler leak issue where the gaskets fail and allow oil into the coolant. The ensuing blackening of the header tank is the result and that’s why yours looks like it did. Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
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I have a bill for the oil cooler at 9,000 miles ago last year, so I presume the garage did not change the tank at the same time. It's certainly not in the bills that came with the car.

Did they change the oil cooler or just the seals? 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

A correction is required as I have misread the wrong bill. That was for the transmission cooler.

What I should have said is that the oil cooler and tank were replaced at 108,000 miles in December 2020, so nearer 50,000 miles ago.

As I will probably replace the doughnut intake hoses I will carry out an inspection in the 'V', or is it likely to be new seals required at this sort of mileage?

Hmmm. Any oil underneath the engine in the round cross member on the trailing edge of the engine undertray? Classic symptom. Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
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Thanks, I will take a look.

Finally I have it all connected and an engine start today. I ran it up for a bit and there are signs of warm air from the heater but I ran out of coolant so it's now cooling down. It never reached above a quarter on the gauge so I doubt the thermostat has opened.

I will revisit tomorrow.

I decided to replace the door handle cable as it was notchy and at the end of its travel. Apart from discovering plenty of dust, I've made a massive blunder.

The cable was fine before closing the door as I tested it, now it won't open from the outside. I forgot to attach the inner handle cable so can't open from inside. I am now searching for a way to release the door.

Click image to enlarge

]I've watched a couple of YouTube videos that show cutting the door striker but using a knife on the other side as a test, I don't think this is practical unless the blade is very bendy

it's not pretty and in hindsight I would probably go through the door card but it's open. A bit of scraping on the door though. All because I did not secure one end of the cable correctly. Fool.

I tried a hacksaw but I lost interest at 90 mins so a friend's electric saw made quick work of it.

The handle release still doesn't feel as good as the other doors so I may buy a new latch. It was nice to drive it again though.

Does anyone know what are these? Part of the inner door harness, they look as LEDs but I am not sure and it is not obvious where they should go.

They look like the little ambient light led's that back light the handle and the armrest pull recess. They slot in the back of he door card, simple push fit. Drives:
2010 FFRR TdV8 Vogue - Stornoway Grey
2010 FFRR TdV8 Vogue SE - Zermatt Silver
1998 BMW E36 M3 GTII

Great, thanks. I haven't screwed it back in yet so I will try to place them in their correct positions, though it is not obvious.

I'm pretty sure they are coloured led's, just check the other door panels to get them the right way around. Should be fairly obvious where they go. Drives:
2010 FFRR TdV8 Vogue - Stornoway Grey
2010 FFRR TdV8 Vogue SE - Zermatt Silver
1998 BMW E36 M3 GTII

A couple of parts arrived today: a decent used rear lamp and NOS OSF body weatherseal.