Hi, have just done this job today to clear the P040D-00 (2F) code.
Lots of thanks to GGDR and all the other contributors, without this help it would have been difficult to even find the correct sensor!
It’s certainly not an easy job due to the tight access.
I found the correct choice of socket combination was key.
I had some long reach six sided sockets which would fit but they tended to try and pull off the nut before enough torque could be applied.
In the end a short six sided socket on a wobble bar did the trick.
The only other item to note is that a hacksaw blade with a handle on the end was the easiest way to cut off the stem of the sensor.
And the best bit, no fault codes!

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Congratulations and welcome to the club Cheers, Greg
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2011 Vogue SE 4.4 with lots of toys in Stornaway

You make it sound so simple! How easily did the sensor nut crack open? Had you been dowsing it in WD40 for months in advance? This is on my to-do list one of these days… -------------------------
2012 4.4 TDV8 Vogue
2001 Audi A2 1.4 16V
2019 Skoda Kodiaq (don't ask...)

Mine came off quite easy, witout WD40.

Thanks, I did spray mine with the WD40 release agent on the Saturday and tried it but then left it overnight.
When I tried with the long socket on Sunday morning it was trying to slip off the nut when you applied some weight.
I think the reason for this is the angle is not quite correct with a long socket and the length of the socket tends to want to pull it off the nut.
I changed over to a small socket on a wobble bar and with a very satisfying crack, it came undone.
As the nut is stainless steel, if using the right tools, I would expect these to release most times.
Once cracked off it came out easily.
I can't show the old nut as it disappeared down the side of the engine never to be seen again!
Hope this helps.

Thanks for sharing your experience BAZ8046.

Looks like you did this job with the heatshields still in-situ?

How long should be budgeted for the job?

Gary 2015 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 SDV8

Hi Gary,
Yes you can just bend the heat shied on the inner wing back and I just had to pull up the RH shield corner over the exhaust manifold.
There is a gap in the heat shield to get to the sensor but it just depends how well it is aligned.
I would allow half a day but it all depends on how easily the old sensor comes out.
My view is that it wasn’t working anyway so if the job has to be abandoned, as the old sensor won’t come out, nothing has been lost.
Good luck if you do take it on.

Barrie.

Old sensor unscrewing was the easyest part with mine. Heatshield takes long time. I just bend it littlebit, but due poor acess its not easy.
Another hard thing I remember was get in new sensor due too bad angle. Need to avoid get it in wrong thread, because in this case you can demage the thread and then you are in deep , you can imagine.

Another question in the air, why 100% of RR-s have this issue with only this temperature sensor? There is 6 similar sensors on exhaust, but only thisone die on apr. 50 000-100 000km.
Is the aswear sensor location? Too close to burning chamber and therefore in very hot conditions, especially when DPF regeneration cycle in progress?

I did my gas sensor today. Thank you all for your inputs so far.

Unfortunately it was a pig of a job for me. Looks like mine has been done before - the braided cable wasn't in one of the cleats, and the heatshield was completely covering the nut.

Nothing was too difficult to remove actually - the battery shroud, the outer heatshield and the inner heatshield came off without a fuss - nothing a 1/4" socket set and ratchet spanners couldn't handle.

Removing wasn't a problem, because I cut the cable and put a 13mm deep socket on it, which gave me loads of purchase to remove it (good reason why I did this - see below). This on the end of a 600mm ratchet bar was enough to get it out.

So just over an hour in I thought it was all going so well and I had the sensor out!

I bought a genuine sensor from Maltings 4x4 (great company if you don't know them). Regardless of who you buy these from though, it is a lot of money for what is essentially a thermistor!

When removed, I tested the old sensor with a multimeter and sure enough, the sensor had gone open loop, compared to the new sensor, which was reading 0.2kohm at ambient temperature.

Here's where the job became a pig.

Now, installing and putting back together is what took the time. A word of warning over the Laser 6850 part. Unfortunately I'm the unlucky one who got one with a manufacturing defect - the socket was a fraction of a millimetre too small for the nut! Additionally, this meant it also kept slipping off, making my install job a major ordeal, moving fractions of a turn at a time and then falling off the nut again.

What also took the time was reinstalling the inner heatshield - locating those bolts with less than 5cm of room to play with took a significant amount of time.

I wasn't overly impressed by the Laser part either - not particularly heavy duty and will flex under load. I'd recommend sourcing a proper 13mm difficult access socket, injection line socket or something like the Neilsen EGT sensor set: https://amzn.eu/d/8OdIP4f . Much more heavy duty, and you have the choice of both a straight and offset socket to wind the sensor in properly.

So, the job is done , but please do make sure the socket for installing a) fits properly and don't just trust the specification and b) get something better quality than the Laser socket, it will pay dividends. 2015 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 SDV8

Hi Gary, glad it all went well in the end.
There is always a good sense of satisfaction from doing the job yourself.

Barrie.

Now your EGR cooler bypass valve working properly.

BAZ8046 wrote:

Hi Gary, glad it all went well in the end.
There is always a good sense of satisfaction from doing the job yourself.

Barrie.

I'm not sure about satisfaction that was very time consuming with the faulty socket and actually took just as long as the whole job changing the air conditioning compressor!

The other thing I'll have no clue on is the tightness of the nut. All I know is that it felt tight enough on a 600mm bar, although the threads in the hole provide quite a hit of resistance.

Checking the before photos, the nut was sitting slightly proud of the hole, so this is what I opted for also. 2015 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 SDV8

Firstly thank you to everyone who has helped me recently.

I bought a 4.4 TDV8 AB a couple of months ago for my wife, after she had a TD6 for the last 9 years. I wasn’t thinking of changing but this one came up and peaked my interest. Anyway TDV8 bought, TD6 sold and that leads to where I am now.

I knew there were some issues that I needed to fix with it, and I am one of those people who likes to get involved, and after that if I find I can’t, then off to my local indy.

So faults were, so I thought, oil leak back of the engine, some paint work on bonnet, little bit of rust starting to surface on underside of rear tailgate. Not too bad.

There ended up being a few more jobs than that which I will list at the end, but one of these “new jobs” was EGR temp sensor. So I read through the excellent wiki from GGDR, Greg and the the comments that followed and managed to complete it over a few days. I wasn’t at it all the time, there were many breaks and “how am I going to get my hand on that” moments, but I found these breaks and a cup of tea helped.

I only used Gregs steps just as a reference and how each of these went for me.

Step 1 was as Greg says find the sensor and over the next week I lubed with Plusgas. I found the best way to achieve this was endoscope camera (the endoscope camera proved vital for most tasks, due to no vision once my arm was down the side of the engine), and a three small straws taped together with tin of Plusgas on the end, as per instructions. It was difficult to spray all around the sensor nut as the top is under the incline of the engine, so I filled the centre where the sensor is, and it overflowed evenly running down the sides of the nut. I did this all week, once a day.

Step 2. Remove the pollen filter air box, battery surround. The cable for my sensor was already unclipped from its clips and looking at the heat shield, this sensor had been changed before. Unplugged sensor wire.

Step3. My step 3 was to cut the top of the sensor before the shield movement, as I figured this would give me better access to the retaining bolt for the heat shield, right next to the sensor. This proved to be one of the biggest hold ups for me. Tried hack saw blade, then I ordered Dremel type tool with Flexi shaft (like aids22) to cut it, but scared me how close the sensor top was to the hard pipe, and how this would give me another job if I messed up. So ordered small bolt cutters, but again a problem as the arms had to open so wide I could not find a way to get them in. Finally back to a hacksaw blade and persevered. Took a while but finally did it .

Heat shield bolt was then very visible and easy to remove with a socket, 300mm extension and ratchet.

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Hello guys, greetings from Spain!
After reading the excellent wiki from Greg and all the comments that followed I´ll try to explain my problem with the support of this video and screenshots of IdTool.
Already ordered the sensor and tools but in LHD seems very difficult to access...

INLET HOSES MOVEMENTS:
https://youtube.com/shorts/bmO1DOCP500

What do you think about the movement in the hoses? Clamps are tighten.

IIDTool SCREENS:

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