Sounds exactly like my issue….

Any tips on the job. Assume access from the bottom?

I think it's Item 3 you are looking for, but don't quote me. Should be able to see it on the front of the engine.

That's right it`s not stuck just not activating? the unit solenoid is a JLR part that is located before the turbo,
If you look down the radiator to the left you will be looking for a unit with what looks like servo bellows with other tubes attached, access is from the top and bottom Torx screws hold it on.
I did not do it myself (too old to get under the car) should only take about an hour to do?

Firstly - thanks everyone for the incredible level of info and help on this forum. 6 months in to my ffrr ownership and loving it so far. I have a RP issue when revving over 2500 and second turbo just not kicking in at all. Same error codes as posted on this thread.

Tinman - do you have a part number and ideally where you bought your solenoid from to resolve this issue? I think have the exact same issue. I’m going to try freeing up the actuator and valve first but think it may actually be the solenoid.

Thanks
Ciaran

I did not do the work myself the part was supplied by the indie,
I would recommend you take it off and see if you can free the mechanical side. Then remove the solenoid and put current across the pins.
It may save you the price of the part. 2017 SDV8 4.4 silicon silver AB
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2011 TDV8 4.4 Buckingham Blue
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Nice one thank you.

For info - mine was degraded vac pipes, I put a whole new vacuum harness on, although I’m sure you could have just fixed the dodgy bit. Looks like an oil leak in the past caused it.

Brilliant thank you. I’ll definitely check that as well while I’m in there.

Thanks again for everyones help on here. Problem resolved - one of the vacuum hoses was collapsing. Had it replaced at an independent and now its running fine. I've only had the car 6 months and on reflection I dont think the second turbo has kicked in the whole time I've had it. Mainly because I've only pushed the car beyond 2400rpm a few times.

Just to add to the knowledge pool and to hopefully help others with the same problem here is the sequence of events and fault codes.

I had an EML come on the dash just cruising at 70mph on the motorway. This remained on for a few weeks while I was waiting on getting a diagnostic reader. Just before my code reader arrived I was accelerating hard (over 2400rpm) and got a red restricted performance warning. Turned car off, waited 5 mins and turned it on again and restricted performance issue was gone but still had EML.

After my code reader arrived I checked the codes and they were as follows;

P00BF-07 - Historic - Mass or volume air flow B circuit range/performance - Air flow too high
P0235-94 - Historic - Turbo/supercharger boost sensor A circuit
P245A-64 - Intermittent - EGR cooler - bypass control circuit
P004D-77 - Intermittent - Turbo/supercharger boost control Solenoid B - circuit high
P004B-71 - Intermittent - Turbo/supercharger boost control solenoid B - circuit range/performance

Cleared all the codes and took it out for hard acceleration beyond 2400 rpm and again red restricted performance. The following codes reappeared;

P245A-64 - Intermittent - EGR cooler - bypass control circuit
P004D-77 - Intermittent - Turbo/supercharger boost control Solenoid B - circuit high
P004B-71 - Intermittent - Turbo/supercharger boost control solenoid B - circuit range/performance

Checked plenum 4 boost hoses and they were fine (already upgraded from the original error prone ones)
Checked the 2nd turbo actuator arm and was both moving freely and is the newer updated version (no nut on top)
Checked vacuum hoses to and from the 2nd turbo solenoid and couldn't see any disconnected or leaking.

Local independent garage confirmed that one of these hoses was collapsing when under vacuum. So no leaks but just faulty/perished. Replaced it and its now running as it should and the second turbo clearly kicking in over 2400rpm!

Happy lad now!

I should add from my research on this forum, other forums and FB groups I could only find 5 others with the same fault codes from hard acceleration (others did get these error codes just cruising along). From those 5 - 4 were problems with the vacuum hoses like mine, 1 was a faulty solenoid. So if you have this issue and these codes - go get those vacuum hoses checked first! £10 replacement to fix it.

Great news and thanks for updating to add to the forum knowledge for future reference 👍 Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
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My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
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It would be interesting to know the locations of the hoses that are starting to degrade. There's dozens of them.

Is there a part number for the vacuum harness or of the individual hoses that need replacing?

Common procedure for old Turbo cars was to replace all vac/boost control hoses with silicone which resisted age/ heat/oil deterioration. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

hmm am facing this at the moment.

checked the hoses, replaced any funny looking onces but still same issue.

i tried putting 12v across both the grey and black solenoids. no clicking or anything, am guessing only thing for it is replacement.

for anyone trying to get it out.

i found it easier to remove the airbox and remove the bracket holding the two solenoids. its 3, 8mm bolts that does it.

also the grey one can actually pull straight out via the rubber thing thats holding it on

edit:

also does anyone have any pics or a diagram of how the vacuum lines should go?

edit:

so in the end still not fixed, I checked the actuator, its the old style but still functioning perfectly(tested with vacuum tester). thought i'd lube just in case.

i start to with the left side as well, took of the vacuum pump and whatever else to get to the 2 solenoids there and low and behold i notice one of the pipes had been caught by the fan and .

long story short, just do the smoke test, woulda saved me a ton of time given I actually have the machine sat in garage, just too lazy to get it

but tbf my vacuum pump gasket was leaking and i needed to change oil pressure sensor so not end of the world.

i've ordered a few different sized silicone hoses to replace all the current ones anyways to rule and issues out.

also it was easy enough to free the solenoid just by squirting in brake cleaner and connecting to some 12v. but i think the black ones need "resetting" via vacuum before the next attempt.

final edit:

I bought some silicone hoses. 5mm and 8mm in size.

Also I think with some elbow joints you can tidy up a lot of the LR mess.

The 5mm did most of the work but is a bitch to get over the T's they provide. I used the 8mm to go into the vacuum pump and those other pipes on the right side of the engine.

The only downside with the 5mm is they aren't super tight around the solenoids.

When I had initially used 4mm then fitted that into an 8mm to use for the T junctions that was the most ideal fit imo.

But seemed too much like a bodge job imo so resorted to 5mm/8mm. If one is worried they could just clamp the pipes at the solenoid but imo once they experience the suction they'll seal pretty tightly, I struggled getting the 4mm off. Its actually a sport

Not anymore, 4.4 TDV8 now