I've just replaced all the rear arms and bushings and the car is sitting on axle stands in extended mode. It hasn't got the air bag or shock absorber fitted at the moment for easier access for all the bolts.
I've made a gauge, and jacked the hub so the centre is 483mm to the wheel arch so the bushes will be in their neutral position before tightening them.
I've had a mental block and can't figure out if the car needs to be in normal height mode with the full weight of the car bearing down, ie, air bag inflated to normal and shock fitted.
Please unblock my mind!!
Thanks Kev.

Just looked at the workshop manual and it says all bolts should be tightened at normal height. I can't see how having the airbags and shocks on or off will make any difference as it won't change the angles of the suspension geometry. Brave move doing all that BTW  2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

please keep me posted, i am about to do the same
i have all the bushes RR 2005 4.4 petrol
Any spelling mistakes are the fault of spellchecker
Previous MG J2, CITROEN light 15 x 2 gone unfortunately
Present MERC 180e, RANGE ROVER L322, JAGUAR XJS, MERC 280SE, MG F, JAGUAR S-Type 6v 2003, jaguar s-type 8v 2004, Ford Cougar

JayGee wrote:

Just looked at the workshop manual and it says all bolts should be tightened at normal height. I can't see how having the airbags and shocks on or off will make any difference as it won't change the angles of the suspension geometry. Brave move doing all that BTW

Cost me a fortune for the garage to do just the rear toe links and front upper and lower arms. They said it was a nightmare cutting out seized bolts so would have been impossible for me with a jack and axle stands. The more I drive it the more I think it's money well spent. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

When I did mine I put it back on it's wheels at normal height with the rear shafts out which gave me plenty of room to get in there and tighten the top bolts.

Either way, as long as the height is correct so that the bushes aren't twisted after they're tightened, you'll be good

David. 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2007 Range Rover Supercharged in Java Black with Ivory Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior

Thanks for that David.

JayGee wrote:

Cost me a fortune for the garage to do just the rear toe links and front upper and lower arms. They said it was a nightmare cutting out seized bolts so would have been impossible for me with a jack and axle stands. The more I drive it the more I think it's money well spent.

When I did mine I removed the entire rear frame so I was lucky enough to be stripping it on the bench. The only thing that was seized was the toe control arms. The bushes that go through the bushes were absolutely seized solid. No amount of heat or anything was freeing them so I ended up having to cut them.

Would have been a nightmare of a job on the car!

David. 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2007 Range Rover Supercharged in Java Black with Ivory Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior

The only thing that was seized was the toe control arms
Would have been a nightmare of a job on the car!

It was, I remember it well, hacksaws, cold chisels, s,b,t  .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

The only thing that was seized was the toe control arms
what are these RR 2005 4.4 petrol
Any spelling mistakes are the fault of spellchecker
Previous MG J2, CITROEN light 15 x 2 gone unfortunately
Present MERC 180e, RANGE ROVER L322, JAGUAR XJS, MERC 280SE, MG F, JAGUAR S-Type 6v 2003, jaguar s-type 8v 2004, Ford Cougar

Knares, have a look for PART NUMBER RGD500180. Called 'Rear toe link' on my receipt.

Deffo normal height as others have stated. I did this with mine, however Ive had to replace my Delphi front arms (I then went back to genuine) and have one britpart bush (each side) also in need of replacement. All under a year old.
Searching the forum afterwards I read that it should be done under load.

I appreciate that the geometry will be correct, however is not being under load when tightening definitely ok?

I was considering borrowing a ramp somewhere just to loosen and retighten all bolts as part of the rear bush re-replacements… Currently driving: 2012 L322 SE Overfinch 4.4 tdv8

Past rides:
2014 Audi Q7 3.0d (good riddance)
2010 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged
2011 L320 HSE 3.0 sdv6
2014 Jaguar XF-RS 5.0 supercharged
2007 BMW 535D
2005 Mini Cooper S

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic59478.html

kevinp wrote:

Knares, have a look for PART NUMBER RGD500180. Called 'Rear toe link' on my receipt.

Thing is, FFff-lover, my thinking is that the bushes need to be 'gripped tight' at a certain position. So if I've got the suspension arms at the correct height and tighten the bolts then surely they will be in the required neutral position.
Thanks Kev.