So planning to do oil change every 6k miles.

I have some Liqui Moly for flushing which according to the instructions you use 500ML per 5 L of sump capacity. So for a TDV8 3.6 I am assuming one litre.

Is it safe to add one litre of oil flush to the engine and then run it or do I need to drain a litre of oil out first so as not to overfill....? L322 2007 TDV8 3.6

I would not bother with oil flush, warm the engine, use a quality oil, changed regularly like you mentioned and at the most 6k miles.

If you block off your egr’s the oil will stay relatively clean after a couple of changes as well.

I'm no expert, I just happen to work for a global engine manufacturer, some of my colleagues are pretty smart and have been around engines all their lives.
Alot of the engines we build run 24/7, 365 days a year. up to 95Litres and 4000hp.

This is what I've picked up from my technical colleagues over the years.
Modern detergent oils are designed to collect dirt which is then trapped in the oil filter.
As long as you are changing your oil on or before the due service interval all should be good.
No need to flush - I certainly don't flush my engines.

If a previous owner has not adhered to service schedule and the oil has become overloaded with dirt - no detergent left in the oil so it deposits dirt on ledges and dirt traps in your engine.
If you then flush that all out in one go, with an already end of life oil filter you could find the filter bypass opens due to a clogged filter - the result is all that dirty oil is circulated around all your bearings.
Also you just diluted the oil - thinner oil = thinner oil film for your bearings.
I'm not taking that risk - I don't flush my engines.
If you suspect a previous owner has gone over the service date the best thing you can do is just increase the oil change frequency, the detergents will pick up the dirt and trap it in the filter.

On another point, engine manufacturers have to test their engines to ensure they will survive, one of our tests is +10% max power & Torque.
There's an argument that people that drive their cars like they stole em have fewer problems than people who tootle about gently taking care of their engines. Would be fascinating to get data on that.
The engines were designed and tested for full power.
If I drive my FF like I stole it I won't have a license very long (but oh what fun!)
Used to always ride my motorbikes like I'd stolen them - never missed a beat.

Always warm an engine before working it hard - always always give turbos time to spool down and cool down.
Think how black baking trays go in the oven from baked on oil! that's what happens inside your turbo if you turn it off whilst it's very hot, the oil is burnt and turns to carbon, carbon is very bad for bearings.

These are just my observations and opinions formed over the last 35 years, they are not the thoughts of my employer.

So I checked the oil today... when I bought the RR 6 weeks ago I had it serviced at a local garage. I bought 20L of Castrol EDGE Professional C1 5W-30 and asked them to use this oil which they were happy to do. Since the oil change I have done about 500 miles. The oil is already black. I had to remove about 1.25 litres today as I found that the garage had overfilled it so I was able to see the colour.

I am not a fan of blocking off the EGRs I would rather put new ones on if I felt this was needed however the RR only has 73k on it and a full service history.

Looking back at the garage invoice I see that they did an engine oil flush when they changed the oil.

What should I expect to see after 500 miles, is black oil the norm ? L322 2007 TDV8 3.6

On diesels yes, black as black can be almost immediately after an oil change

Superb sound advice from Treebor. Should be required reading for anyone working on engines.
Engines we deal with range from truck sized units, then varying sizes of engines up to 40000 HP with 45000 litre sumps - all diesel engines, oil condition monitoring is obviously critical. I have only seen flushing used once in over 30 years, and that was due to VERY special circumstances.
Same as treebor, we run engine 24/7, longest diesel engine run I have ever seen was for 64 days from starting the engine to stopping.
Most engine builders would NEVER recommend using flushing oil, be it diesel or petrol.

Basically the mention of flushing oil gives me the heebie jeebies

I always baby my engines until they are warm, one of the reasons I like an oil and water temp gauge in my cars.

The FF’s at least have a water temp gauge which you can monitor, however, my 510bhp XFR doesn’t have a water or oil temperature gauge which is really annoying.

Once any of my cars are warmed up properly I’ve never had to change an EGR valve or anything but I do drive them properly once they’ve warmed up.

I’ve got a couple of friends who will use full power when cold and it makes me cringe.

I never use an engine flush either as am worried its thinning the oil whilst it works.

David. 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior

Merchy wrote:

Superb sound advice from Treebor. Should be required reading for anyone working on engines.
Engines we deal with range from truck sized units, then varying sizes of engines up to 40000 HP with 45000 litre sumps - all diesel engines, oil condition monitoring is obviously critical. I have only seen flushing used once in over 30 years, and that was due to VERY special circumstances.
Same as treebor, we run engine 24/7, longest diesel engine run I have ever seen was for 64 days from starting the engine to stopping.
Most engine builders would NEVER recommend using flushing oil, be it diesel or petrol.

Basically the mention of flushing oil gives me the heebie jeebies

I totally agree will be putting the Liqui Moly away and just doing the regular filter and oil changes thanks guys.... L322 2007 TDV8 3.6

Exactly.
If u are worried do a 1000km oil changes a couple times..
I started doing this to auto transmission doing partial change.
It really affected positively. 2010 3.6tdv8 180k km.
sold 06 td6 160k
Sold 03 td6 260k

i did the timing chains on mine and since then i have been draining the oil and changing the filter every tank full of petrol
i remove the sump plate every time
i have done it twice now and although the oil is perfectly clean looking, there has been a lot of rubbish in the sump RR 2005 4.4 petrol
Any spelling mistakes are the fault of spellchecker
Previous MG J2, CITROEN light 15 x 2 gone unfortunately
Present MERC 180e, RANGE ROVER L322, JAGUAR XJS, MERC 280SE, MG F, JAGUAR S-Type 6v 2003, jaguar s-type 8v 2004, Ford Cougar

On a TDV8 3.6 Knares ? I did not think the timing chains on the 3.6 were an issue ? L322 2007 TDV8 3.6

dingg1 wrote:

On diesels yes, black as black can be almost immediately after an oil change

Chris1573 wrote:

So I checked the oil today... when I bought the RR 6 weeks ago I had it serviced at a local garage. I bought 20L of Castrol EDGE Professional C1 5W-30 and asked them to use this oil which they were happy to do. Since the oil change I have done about 500 miles. The oil is already black. I had to remove about 1.25 litres today as I found that the garage had overfilled it so I was able to see the colour.

I am not a fan of blocking off the EGRs I would rather put new ones on if I felt this was needed however the RR only has 73k on it and a full service history.

Looking back at the garage invoice I see that they did an engine oil flush when they changed the oil.

What should I expect to see after 500 miles, is black oil the norm ?

Chris1573 wrote:

On a TDV8 3.6 Knares ? I did not think the timing chains on the 3.6 were an issue ?

Hi Knares, absolutely it was only the timing chain thing I was asking. L322 2007 TDV8 3.6