What should be the correct stall speed (apply foor brake firmly, engage D or R and push accelerator firmly) for a 3.0 Td6?

Mine is 1500RPM max in D and 1300 RPM in R

What are your figures?

What's this in aid of? I would have thought it puts unnecessary strain on already weak parts e.g. Gearbox and torque converter? 

^^time bomb and ticking come to mind

Raising the stall speed isn't going to improve the performance of a TD6.. the factory has got it about right, with the torque converter reaching stall at around maximum torque..... the only possible benefit of raising the stall is if you have fitted a larger turbo with lag... and you wouldn't want to do that cos the GM gearbox struggles with the standard power as it is

The biggest problem with the GM5L40E box is the slipping TCC mode that exists between 30 and 50 MPH... it eats the TCC which then wears the rest of the gearbox out  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Checking the stall speed is a recognised way of detecting faults with a TC, in a well running box that is up to temp it does not harm the box to test it once or twice.

miggit, he didn't say he wanted to change it, he want's to know what it should be, you wouldn't raise it on a diesel 4x4 anyway, you can get a lower stall speed TC from Australia which should help if you tow heavy things (miggit, why haven't you got one,,??)

Sorry can't help with what it should be but your readings sound OKish I would say...  Pete

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2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
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Not sure where my negativity regarding my TD6 comes from, it never breaks

Ill give this a go when mines fixed, probably smashing the TC to bits in the process! 

Pete I looked in to a super duper all singing and dancing H/D torque converter... and by the time I had paid for it and the shipping I could have had the gearbox rebuilt they ain't cheap... went for a totally new, never rebuilt one instead  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

 Pete

__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

thnx for your replies

Is anyone out there who can tell what stall speed is normal for the Td6? I couldn't find any information on that in the RAVE manual.

I'm asking because the guy who did my gearbox overhaul has tested this thinks it is too low.

I have a strange problem: when putting FF in Reverse and pushing accelerator quite firm there is not much acceleration and it feels like the drive is skipping some teeth (as you can have with a bike when the chain is skipping some teeth). If anyone has any idea about that it is also much appreciated

Yup but only going up hill backwards .... the transmission oil pick up is at the back of the gearbox.. and when you put your foot down too hard going up hill backwards, all the oil flies to the front of the box away from the pick up and causes starvation ... end result hiccup from the box ..... it just goes to show how bad the design of the gearbox is to start with, let alone how unsuited it is for a 4x4  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

I agree with the design and just thought this was the cause of the problem, but then I tried it on a flat surface and the problem is exact the same When at idle it drives easily backwards, but giving throttle will make it hick-up and you feel it doesn't have as much torque as it has in forward

Low oil?

As the sump is sealed there is no easy way of telling if the level is too low, but I think that I'd be looking at that before I went looking for bigger problems....

And if you've had your gearbox worked on, wouldn't it be a better idea to make a trip back, and complain??

As you can see the oil pick up is at the rear of the filter, if your oil level is low then every time you go backwards your moving the oil away from the pickup point.....



FYI pic is of filter upside down oil goes in on the right and comes out the left tube, but up cos it's upside down as well

In all honesty it's not a very deep sump.. most 4x4 sumps hold twice as much oil as the gm box.. it's probably something to do with economy, and not putting too much precious oil in the box... just enough to make it function under normal road conditions... not extreme off road My Jeep takes best part of 2 gallons (8litres) of oil before it shows on the dipstick ..... Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

indeed the design is not one of the best i guess... and in reverse i can imagine there's not enough oil flow, but the design does not explain the same symptoms when on flat surface....

I have been to the specialist who did the gearbox and he's very helpful in finding the problem with reverse hick-up. When i was there last week he drove the car and said it looks like my FF misses some horses. I didn't notice, but he was right about it: I had a loose vacuum hose on the turbo. After reconnecting I did another stall test: now 2200RPM in D (and that's what it should be regarding the gearbox specialist) and in R I stopped at 1400RPM because the hick-ups where very heavily (not really good for the box)
Just phoned with the guy and he's now thinking it might be in the valve block so he's going to contact the one who had supplied the valve block. Fingers crossed.

Anyone, maybe RRPhil, who has an idea why the reverse is hciking-up?

RRPhil knows enough about the GM5L40E gearbox to specialise in the ZF box instead There's a lesson there if someone who knows about auto's don't want to know

But I'm sure that he'd be able to give a better reason for it hiccuping in reverse other than it's a GM5L40E... although with it's reputation... that is a reasonable response

I know that mine will do the reverse hiccup when I go to see my parents, their driveway is a slope, 15-20%, and if I reverse out of the driveway too quickly I get the hiccuping box syndrome.. I just don't push the loud peddle too hard, it seams to work  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

My gearbox re-builder wanted to exclude a valve block failure so today he installed a new one. It didn't cure the problem

What can be the problem with the hick-up in reverse?? Any ideas most welcome

I wonder if it could be pressure related... too much rather than not enough... like the pressure relief valve keeps on blowing... bit like a pressure washer with a semi-blocked nozzle  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!