@RRBlue

I reckon if one removes the sidesteps (if you have them) and then have the car up high enough on ramps/lifts in order to have enough clear space below, one should be able to get it in in one piece, when bent into shape. .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

how much new brake fluid did it take in the end after bleeding the system..?

Actually not much, I used @ 1.5 litres in all, but I did go round three times in order to get as much new fluid into the system as possible. You don't want to drain the master reservoir if possible otherwise you can end up with air in the ABS modulator that you can't get out. But I was getting nice clean fluid out of all four corners before I finished off. .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Thanks,going at this tommorrow so didnt want to be buying to much fluid

Have fun, let us know how it goes, any differences on a V8 etc. .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

@Joe90 Thanks again for a smashing writup and pics.I dont think I would have had the balls to go at this job otherwise

@Joe90 Also didnt get any water removing that bolt from the fuel tank shield...!!!!



In my case I started work on this last weekend.From the pics I can see no difference with the brake system architecture between my V8 and Joe90's td6.I only did the rear lines as my front lines are still in good nick,actually the corrosion only started after the fuel filter ( just below left hand passenger door on v8 ).I actually was very suprised at the extent of the corrosion around the rear suspension and subframe.Thats the price of easy access I suppose.

I spliced brass connectors in to the lines for both sides in the same place under the fuel tank shield.Flaring steel pipe is bloody hard and took a few attempts.Copper pipe a lot easier.I only used about 2.5m of copper pipe from here and am very happy with results.Brakes feel much better especially with new fluid in the system.



I used the Sealey version of the above Gunsons kit and would highly recommend either of them.Makes bleeding brakes so much easier.I also bought a set of Irwins Bolt extractors which made light work taking the corroded bolts off the fuel tank shield,another great tool.I bought a Sealey AK5063 pipe flaring tool and pipe bending pliers VS0341.

And to note the bleed nipple requires an 11mm spanner for the bleeding process.I was also recommended Halfords Shock and unlock which I found great for loosening corroded and stuck bolts and bleed nipples.

Took me about a day and a half all in.Put her through the national car test one hour after finishing bleeding the brakes on Monday and was chuffed to see it passed but all thanks to Joe90




ps tools available on loan to anybody local who wants to do this job

Last edited by rathbranV8 on 30th Jun 2014 1:14am. Edited 2 times in total

Great work rathbranV8 and thanks for the feedback.

Did you use the same flaring tool as me ? .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

No I used the Sealey pipe flaring tool AK5063.I couldn't get the tool you used delivered quickly enough even though it looks the business and easier to use.The tool I used is exactly the same as the one in the second half of this youtube clip approx 20 mins in.

on pipe flaring and bending....

Ah yes, I tried one of those to begin with, had so many failures I gave up, so well done for persevering  .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Joe- mine has failed the MOT today on the rear pipes. Both flexis and the front to rear. I heard a while back that the fuel tank and driveshafts have to be dropped out to replace the pipes but you don't appear to have done that I see.

Dan at Duckworth says the front to rear pipes are £15 each. They are usually pre-formed as well. Would they be as easy to fit or is bendable copper the way forward?

You don't need to drop the fuel tank, just the plastic cover to get at the pipes. Never heard of the drive shafts having to come off?

Fitting issues for standard steel pipes are @ space and access. if you can get the car high enough off the ground then you should have sufficient wiggle room to get the new pipes into place (LHR wheel might need to come off too). Also much easier (if you have them) is to remove the side steps on the LHS.

Many people have gone for a join under the tank cover (including me) which makes fitting of steel or copper runs much easier.

And Dan hasn't told how much the rear flexis are yet either!  .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

There's a YouTube "how to" and the mechanic bloke reckons the tank has be dropped. Had me worried for a minute there!

The front to rear pipes- where do they terminate at the back of the car? They're £15 each off Dan and will be pre-shaped. Will they go in without having to straighten them out?

I did mine last year as preventative maintainance following joe's guide which was invaluable. The rears run from inside the N/S front wheel arch to the flexible fuel lines in one run. Once you get the covers etc off with some fiddling of the exhaust heat shield for the fuel tank cover its a straight forward job. I would say that I would think it would be much easier using the copper, or even better cupro nickel brake lines, to be bent to shape as there are some tricky spots to feed it through, especially on the rear o/s one. You will need a flaring too but the pre bent steel ones would be really fiddly to manoeuvre and you would need some real space to do it. Plus the copper ones or even cupro nickel would cost less aswell!!

Can you clarify- the rears have a flexi from the brake calipers with piped sections? The parts image looks that way.
Is there another pipe running across the car from o/s to n/s?
Then the whole lot connects to the front to rear pipes?

Sorry for the questions but I've had a quick look under the car at the MOT station and they're not easy to look at.

The guy in this video takes a different route with the front to rear to "avoid dropping the tank". He probably hasn't researched it properly

Yeah there is a flexi which is black rip über pipe and some metal that connects to the calipers then a bracket which is where the brake lines connect too them. If you get the car up on stands in full height mode and the wheel off the back you can get a good view of what's going on. With the lines once all the covering is removed and you get under there you can easily see where they run. It's just a case of feeding them through up to the flexis with the copper etc you can form bends easy enough by hand so being pre bent on the originals really isn't much of an advantage. Plus they could rust again and need doing once more