Out of curiosity and I've looked into this, and found a 1.6 Laguna...

Insurance - @r$e about face:

3Party Only - £618!
3pFT - £262
Comp - £235

Huh??? 3Ponly was always supposed to be the cheapest! *AND* this is all with full no claims!  Tym
(current) L322 3.6 TDV8 Vogue 2008 Tonga Green
(previous) L322 4.4 LPG Vogue SE 2003

If it sticks, force it. If it breaks, it needs replacing anyway.

either throw your existing policy over to 'new' car, or pay monthly....

is this the same as this more expensive version ?

Most I have seen, apart from the rent one, is in the 450 - 500 mark, but the one listed as timing chain kit *seems* to contain everything, and yet is a lot cheaper... Tym
(current) L322 3.6 TDV8 Vogue 2008 Tonga Green
(previous) L322 4.4 LPG Vogue SE 2003

If it sticks, force it. If it breaks, it needs replacing anyway.

It appears to me to be the same I have got the laser set that's the dearer one but I bought it nearly two years ago in both sets there are a couple of rounds rings that hold the small chains tight these on my set were too brittle and snapped I bought a pair from some other ebay buy it now for about £12 and they seem to work ok. Mine had an instruction book but I used that beisian webpage as it was very thorough. I seem to remember having slight problems bolting the large block that lock the cams I needed a coupe of large spinners that were thin to rock the cams a tad to lock them.
The cheaper set says it covers the m62tu44 Land Rover engine so I would say yes
Just don't rely on the flywheel locking pin being as strong as you want it to be to just undo that big nut . Make a holding bar like the guy shows, and crack it off before you start taking anything to bits. Then you can start locking engine and open heart surgery on your beast.

The trick to anything like this is knowing one's limitations... this, in all honesty, at the present time, is totally beyond me! So... found a local garage who know what they're doing (and were the only ones to ask if it was gassed as that increases the time needed!) and it's being picked up on 5 Jan - should have it back later the same week.

Thanks to all who posted advice on this, especially as they weren't short posts either.

Having fun driving the Mini at the moment - but my son isn't happy in the back! He's 14 and 5'10"- something about not enough leg room...  Tym
(current) L322 3.6 TDV8 Vogue 2008 Tonga Green
(previous) L322 4.4 LPG Vogue SE 2003

If it sticks, force it. If it breaks, it needs replacing anyway.

i think you made a very good decision. watch out for any water leaks after, and small oil leaks too.

Hi guys,
I am new to this forum and have stumbled upon it searching for info on L322 timing issues.
I don't own a RR, however my brother does and I have had to do some work on it of late.
It all started when he was driving one day and had an oil pressure fault, this was followed by a cam sensor fault.
He decided to get the car towed home, various online searches later we found ourselves stripping the car to inspect the engine. He removed everything from the thermo fans to the bumper bar and everything in between. I pulled down the front of the motor apart to find timing chain guides broken and worn.
I removed the sump plate also and found plastic pieces in the oil pick up. I ordered a timing chain and guide kit as well as a L322 timing tool kit, I also purchased a kit to rebuild the vanos. The vanos seals are quite tricky to get in, the o-ring goes in easy however the flat seal that follows is a little thicker than original and I found it got pushed out the way when putting the vanos back together. (Ended up putting new o-ring and having to install old flat rings)
I installed the guides and chains, using the timing tools, double checking everything along the way.
- engine at tdc
- pin inserted into flywheel
- install cam shaft locking blocks
- install chain tensioner tool
- set the vanos and lock it in position
- tighten inlet and exhaust gears onto camshaft.
Then I continued to put the engine back together.
Long story short - ( unfortunately I wasn't there to start the car today ) the car took a while to start, eventually it started but I am on the understanding that it is running a little ruff ( like its missing or something)
The timing chains have a slight rattle also, oil capacity is only half what it should be as we were just going to flush it with a cheap oil then fill it with good stuff.

My questions are :

- tdc can this be 180 out? Would it start if it was? I had the pulley on the tdc mark with pin in flywheel and cams with lettering on top as prescribed.

- could the vanos be faulty? I did split the vanos to put o-rings in did it go back together in exactly the same spot ( I believe the are balanced, could that affect it?) how can you balance a vanos if needed .?

- an electrical issue, as a few plugs were disconnected

- maybe oil is getting into spark plug area?

- do I need to pull it apart and do timing again?

- I put a new timing chain tensioner on , do they need to be primed with oil before install?

I am at a stage where I need to decide my plan of attack, I would of thought it would have started first pop and purred like a cat!

Any help would be much appreciated
Thanks
Danny
Australia

at the least you should fill it with oil, listen, and compare the noise at idle, to what people have posted on youtube, say 'vanos rattle m62tu44 engine' they do have a clatter when idling if they are bleeding past the seals. perhaps post your sound on youtube and post here..
i did my chain and vanos seals a while ago now. it went first time, after i had removed fuel relay to spin engine over, and replaced.. they should run perfect and quiet. dont go revving it up though till you know its good. if you get he left rocker cover off, maybe you can see down if the tensioner is applying tension, with say a long screwdriver pushing on the chain. (engine off of course!) i think also, i had a plug connected wrong, i think it was either a knock sensor, or a cam sensor, someewhere near the front top part of the engine area. it fitted ok, but it threw some code cant remember.

p.s. welcome! -to the deep end ....of range rover ownership!

Thank you John I will definitely give your ideas a go. 👍🏻

Just recalling.... If you were to first remove the tensioner, check it has some Spring tension, and does any oil run out? Gues it went in dry.... Can't remember what I read up back then, but it must be spring loaded at rest, and under hydraulic pressure at idle. But it could be jammed in its 'squashed in ' position.
Did you fit a new one?
I think I posted way back on this thread, but if you search google for 'e39 m62tu vanos procedure'
You will find a very comprehensive write up showing how to do the entire job.
Get yourself comfortable, and open a tinny....or three.

Yes John I did install an new tensioner and it wasn't pre-loaded, I have a feeling this may be the issue. I will celebrate with the tinnys after the car purrs
I will look for that link
Thanks

was just thinking again.....some people have in the past, had difficulties with the oil filter re-inserting., if done wrong, it could hinder oil pressure. you could check that it has now refilled itself, -and, that it empties when you lift the filter up etc. as sometimes these jam, or go in upside down!

Thanks John I will check it out, hoping to get out and have a look at the car next Monday. Keep you posted

johnboyairey wrote:

was just thinking again.....some people have in the past, had difficulties with the oil filter re-inserting., if done wrong, it could hinder oil pressure. you could check that it has now refilled itself, -and, that it empties when you lift the filter up etc. as sometimes these jam, or go in upside down!

cant help with pictures of mine, but did you read this. it is very long, but its what i used.
(mentioned earlier, and has lots of pics)

http://www.beisansystems.com/procedures/m62tu_vanos_procedure.htm

also, you are quoting the oil filter comment, and asking about the chain tensioner loading.....