Just wondering what is involved in servicing the gearbox on the 4.4v8? I have no rumbles or judders or anything (touch wood) that would make me feel there is something wrong with my gearbox (changes up and down nice and smooth) but at 106,300 miles now, I am curious if these gearboxes are definitely going to fail or not and what preventative measures can be made to guard against failure?

I don't even know how or where to check gearbox oil levels? I am assuming a warning light would appear if the level was low?

No warning light I’m afraid, nor a dipstick. The transmission has a filler/level plug on its RH side near the back and the fluid level has to be checked manually.

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Useful info thanks.

As I have mentioned, I have no signs (touch wood) of any problems with the box, it's all very smooth and responsive. Are we saying that these definitely will fail after 100,000 miles or that the likelihood is slightly higher as it has more miles? I would imagine that some tell-tale signs would appear first? I would also imagine it would vary dependent on types of use on-road/off-road etc.

Anyhow, is it worth getting a service done on it? It's never mentioned by any dealers that I go to as a recommended thing to do but I have been quoted;

8.0 Ltr gearbox oil (STC4863) 19.56 156.48

1 Screen and filter (LPW000030) 27.50 27.50

1 ‘O’ ring (TYX000100) 0.54 0.54

1 Gasket (TYF000110) 15.05 15.05

2.0 Labour 57.00 114.00

1 Consumables 2.95 2.95

SUBTOTAL 316.52
SALES TAX 63.30
TOTAL 379.82

In my experience, once you have signs of gearbox issues, it is already too late. I'd suggest, replace the lot (oil and filter) and you will probably be fine for quite some mileage . MY 2010 5.0 SC Galway green and sand interior!!
Have the Faultmate MSV2 Extreme to be tinkering with the settings etc. !!

You mean - replace the lot as per the above service Not replace the whole gearbox?

For my reference - ZF 5HP24.

Found some info from a Land Rover Specialist;

Automatic Transmission Failure

The ZF and GM5 automatic gearboxes used in the Range Rover® are prone to failure. Initial symptoms would usually be a reluctance to shift gear or the appearance of engine management or gear monitor faults on the dashboard. If the problem is not attended to the next symptom would normally be a chattering noise under drive. If the any of these things occur it is best to stop driving the vehicle immediately and take it to the place of repair by recovery truck or on tow.

The GM ‘box used in the TD6 has a notoriously short life span – typically 80k to 100k miles (there are exceptions of course). The ZF 5-speed transmission, on the other hand, doesn’t have nearly so bad a reputation.
The torque converter lock-up clutch may wear (sounds like driving over a quiet cattle grid) once you get to 100k+ miles and, depending on how much time the transmission has spent at high load in the lower gears during its lifetime, the axial bearing between the B-clutch hub and the C-clutch drum may fail leading to the A-clutch being unable to hold pressure.
However, if all is well with yours then refreshing the fluid (you’ll only be replacing 60% of it) and renewing the filter is a sensible step in my view.
Some subscribe to the ‘new fluid shock’ theory for high-mileage transmissions where the fluid is being changed for the first time i.e. the high detergent content of the new fluid will flush out all the crud that’s stuck in all the nooks and crannies of the casing - currently doing no harm - which will then go through the valve block and cause the transmission to fail. I personally don’t subscribe to this theory, especially if you’re just doing a drain and refill, but you may want to consider it.
By the way, you’re being charged way over the odds for the fluid (£23.47/litre) – it’s available on eBay for around £10/litre including delivery.

Phil

Thanks for the info again - good to hear.

I will contemplate getting a service on the gearbox then, although I put the vehicle up for sale last week so I would prefer not to shed out any more cash than I have to at the moment. Also, I do worry about disturbing what isn't broken

the craig-meister did my SC at around 70k miles , not because it needed it but it was done as a preventive maintenance job..
its also comforting , knowing its got fresh oil in the gearbox.. ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
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I think my 4.2 S/C will have the ZF6HP26 gear box according to your chart in the WIKI and would therefore need to specific fluid you mentioned.
it has done 100K with MD Services on time
it does occasionally clunk slightly when coming to a stop (depends on how I am braking but it does this occasionally under light braking. Is this a sign of impending doom or nothing to worry about (They all do that Sir!) otherwise there are no apparent issues with the way it performs

I am contemplating a gearbox flush rather than just changing the fluid but there are conflicting views on this website about doing that. do you think a flush would be a good idea for a ZF6HP26 gear box with 100K miles is worth it , or should I leave well alone?

Would a gearbox service replacing oil and filter imply it will no longer fail?

cheaper oil, (same stuff) here.. that price for 8 litres will save you quite a lot. -and opie oils is a site trusted on here. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mobil-ATF-LT-711...2a32ff8c0a
the job just got half- as- much the better way!

the guy doing it will need one of these as its impossible to fill from the bottle. (without mess and buring the bottle) etc..
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Oil-Fluid-Suctio...33933da4d3

Blackstoun, your sc will indeed have the 6hp26 box, and definitely needs the right fluid, zf lifeguard 6, Myele also do the same stuff apparently, but I put lifeguard in mine.

Ask your local MD for a labour only cost for the fluid and filter swap. I paid Hunters £95 to do the box service and got the parts and oil from Dan.  There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
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Thanks for that
My real point was that the zf box might not be as prone to high mileage failure as the td6 one, so perhaps I should not worry?
However a labour only fuel and filter swap seems like a simple way to see if it makes a difference to my very occasional clunk when coming to a stop. I assume that this would replace all the fluid? Whereas MD services do not
Thanks again

there are many long threads regarding 'gearbox flush' etc

Yes I know but it's not really conclusive and I was looking for the conventional wisdom from rrphil, or at least his view on it
All in all I think I will go down the fluid and filter swap route recommended by NMjones , this seems a simple precautionary measure, even though I could be worrying about nothing