Well, judging by the light shining through that casing, you are balls deep already with a rebuild/full check over etc.
. my same bearing only had some swarf pick up on some needles, but you have some missing. - I'm guessing you need to look for those, maybe inside the filter, or checking they're not potentially in clutch areas. Or gone through the epicyclic gear.
You have gone far further than I did, so can only guide you on what I wrote up above. -obviously refer to your pictures, and keep us in the loop as we may be able to assist your rebuild.

Yes, you will have to find those two, could be in the valve body somewhere preventing it from doing what it should, if you can't find them I wonder if they could get inside the torque converter...

The clutch packs are usually OK unless you have had the wrong oil in it in which can lead to problems.. and yes those bolts are a pain to get out... Pete
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thanks for interest, those two missing, are on the table,near bearing but out the image, don't warry,

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Today I built three rings like Assembly bracket for pressure down cups springs, but decided leave the old clutch and steel plates
Then I open the pump and remove the oil seal were talking about and that I will have to buy

I don't know how the contact marks on the casing have appeared, but seemingly it's from sideways movement of the main drums? Doubt it's the loose roller bearings. Perhaps the bronze bearing shells show the wear? Those I believe pull out, mine were gold with no damage/wear etc. they look like circular crankshaft bearings, ie one piece. That pump seal I mentioned, pops off the front, even when in situ etc. not the rear of the pump...have you discovered the centre drum with the o ring yet? That I pictured etc?

If you’ve had issues with reverse then it’s important that you replace O-rings 74.140 and 74.150

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this mean that I heve to disassemble D/E another time, just today assembled.
ok I wil do it
but IS This normal

“but IS This normal”

I assume you’re asking about the clutch wavy plate? This is a cushion spring fitted in each of the six clutch packs between the piston and the first steel plate and, yes, it’s supposed to look like that

“part inside red circle C CLUTCH/ have to be fitted with exact position of holes or not”

No, you don’t need to line any holes up as there’s an annular space machined into the drum for the flow to be distributed around. Just make sure that you insert the sun gear drive sleeve into the C-clutch drum fully until the sleeve hits the stop i.e. the second O-ring is fully engaged

You should always check the phosphor bronze bushes in the sleeve for wear as they act as seals for the C-clutch hydraulic circuit (which is only used in reverse). The shaft will measure Ø31.96mm and the bush should have an inside diameter between Ø32.01 and Ø32.03 - and no bigger.

I’m very impressed by your clutch spring compression tool – excellent. I'll add it to my photo collection. Here’s another one that someone sent me a picture of:

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Thanks Phil, your help is like gold
yes I asnking about clutch wavy plate
you are very nice but my extraction tool is built in twenty minutes, tomorrow I'll send you the other one, and sure the above tool is really superb.
about C CLUTCH I imagined as you say, but I wanted for your confirm
tommorrow will check for phosphor bronze bushes
the pads on the B-clutch hub Have not been touched and tomorrow will post image about drum
if I decide for TORQUE CONVERTER overhaull will be sent to JPAT as agreement

just a quick question here regarding those b clutch pads, I noticed that mine had indeed been scuffed a bit, but not as bad as the ones above, what was the concequence of that?

as mentioned on previous pages, I got away with an 'O' ring and a couple of bearings that had picked up, possibly some 'pad swarf' ???

personally, I'm really glad I didn't do further inspections, as this is getting very deep now. and my box is going fine now.

There’s no consequence as such, and the hub can be reused - the pad wear just gives a useful indication of how far the bearing damage had gone. The critical thing is to dig out and replace the steel washer too as it’s likely to be wafer thin (and therefore razor sharp, so care is required)

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well Phil, that's very relieving to know.
my gearbox had already had a full rebuild less than 20,000 miles previous, by the previous owner. I have the full £2250 job receipt still and its two years ago, so one year over its warranty. I called in, and discussed what they could do, and mentioned it might be the o ring, but they said 'bring it down' etc, and some sort of pro talk, and 'We will look at it, etc'
but I knew that once they had it in pieces, I was going to be in for an identical bill and they would (might) be just replacing the o ring etc. I decided I could fall back on this, so tried successfully to do the job myself.

This was a autobox specialist, they only do gearboxes etc, they have branches in Croydon, and Wimbledon. etc. though the Wimbledon branch had a floor more akin to a skating rink, with the amount of fluid soaked in, under my wet boots etc. they also ha a similar range rover in the air !
I'm very glad that I did the job, and was quite interested how it works etc. its a beautiful piece of precision engineering, that we take for granted. until it goes wrong.

my first ever gearbox teardown was more like this.... but it was junk....

today not much time for the box, we have only just begun .... weekend ahead
as you say, B CLUTCH hub, shows slight signs of wear, also outside

without your help I would not solved

bronze bushe outside is ok with the correct diameter, but the other one inside is not possible take size,but it seems a bit worn where the color faded