Good on you Pete. It really isn't that difficult although to be honest the ones I did were years ago in the days of 3 speeds and brake bands rather than clutch packs. But having read RRPHIL's thread about tearing down the 6HP26 I would definitely have a go.

My only advice, which I'm sure you don't need, cleanliness! And more cleanliness, and when you reckon you're done, add some more cleanliness.

You won't need it, but good luck anyway. Looking forward to a properly decent technical thread Sir.

Thanks chaps.

FF's booked for ramp space next Thursday, garage and workshop have had a clear out.

Was thinking the same about the TC so will get that reconditioned.

I'm sure one of the problems of it getting too hot was because of the G4 front skid plate, it blocks air getting in the lower front and definitely prevents it from getting out underneath, I know the oil cooler is an oil to water one but it does get very hot down where it lives so I've bought a 19row air to oil rad and will plumb that in instead of the factory one, I know a place that makes hydraulic lines so will get them to make some pipes to connect it to the original cooler lines ensuring they have been cleaned out thoroughly.



I've got lots of worktop space in the workshop and will ensure it's all cleaner than an operating room, I've got a couple of hours spare this afternoon so will have a good jetwash under the car to get the worst of the outside before I start.

I'll take loads of pics and do a decent write up, looking forward to the challenge now, especially with Phil to fall back on if/when I mess up.....

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  Pete
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

Pete, I think you would find that the oil/coolant heat exchanger will work fine even in a hot spot. The reason is that these heat exchangers do much much better than air to oil and the external temperature has very little effect on them purely due to the design and flow speeds.

If you would measure the actual temp difference with and without the plate I would be surprised to see more than 1 or 2 degrees C between the plate in place and not. I really wouldn't worry about it and add things to the mix that can get damaged themselves or clogged with mud/crap.

Sorry to say that after you bought the new radiator.

What you might want to do is replace the original oil/coolant heat exchanger (the one on my 2006 SC went and caused me major headaches sorting out the ATF AND coolant after that, only to have the second one (coolant to engine oil) go a month or so later). MY 2010 5.0 SC Galway green and sand interior!!
Have the Faultmate MSV2 Extreme to be tinkering with the settings etc. !!

I must admit to having the same feelings really, I bought the rad above mainly because it was reduced to £20 and I couldn't resist the bargain!!!!

Was having a look today where it will fit and there is no room to get it in a decent place to get any airflow (It's bigger then it looked in the picture) so I'll probably stick with the original set up for now and see if the rebuild reduces the temp any... the oil rad was new when I bought it but I suppose the pipes maybe blocked so I'll give them a good clean out and stick a new rad on it just to make sure....

Spent 2 1/2 hours this afternoon lying under it jet washing all the mud off, then took it for a spin to dry it off so the brakes didn't rust on and........ the box ran really well!!!!!!! small clunk into second and a bit of a skip into third but no "bongs"..... sods law.... did about 10miles and the box temp was 110degC when I got back.....

I do know it probably won't last so will do it as planed and then hopefully it'll last a while.... Pete
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

Pete,

You probably haven’t reached this stage yet but here are a couple of pieces of advice for once you have the transmission out, but before you start to disassemble it:

1. Ensuring torque converter is fully engaged on rebuild

To help with the torque converter replacement at the end you should take a measurement, say from the bellhousing face to the TC central snout or one of mounting pads, before the old torque converter is removed.

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated

Cheers Phil, had read about the problems with not getting the TC back on right, measuring should sort it... thanks for the tips about the screws....

Does the transfer box just unbolt or is there anything special to do with that?? Pete
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

No - just undo the 9 bolts and pull.

Phil

Started the strip out mid morning Thursday, get FF on ramp, leave key in the ignition but switch off, wait 10mins then disconnect battery so the electronic steering lock is free...

I removed the electric fans as a precaution and also to gain access from the top to the oil cooler, also removed the airbox at the rear of the engine and the engine top cover, I had jetwashed the underside as best I could and cleaned out the engine bay last week as mine was covered in mud...



Then of course I'm confronted with all these underneath before I can start



So first job was to remove all the underbody protection... they do collect a bit of mud, and this was after a good jetwash



Then the stripout started, very much as RRPhils tech bulletin on the last page, does save a fair bit of work not removing the rear prop... I took the exhaust off in one piece by undoing the mountings rather than prizing off the rubbers as at their age they would have most probably split... it's not too heavy but pretty awkward... here's two of my helpers moving it for me!!!



I noticed that you can see the weld on the torque convertor through the access plug in the bottom of the bellhousing, it is right in the middle of the hole, so can use this as another indication that the TC is fully home on rebuild...



I had to take it very steady as some of you will know I've just had one new hip, I'm waiting on a second and then a new knee so my mobility is a bit restricted and I have to rest a fair bit as only one leg works any good!!!! Got it to nearly removal stage on Thursday and then left the final push for Friday morning...

Friday removed the bellhousing bolts, all from underneath the car with various lengths of socket extensions to get over the top of the box.... much easier than sitting on the engine and reaching back and down...

Got four helpers to take the box out, can't take any serious weight myself, came out no problem on a transmission jack and then they put it on a roll cab.... took a good heave from all of them as it is rather heavy as it comes out.... I just made sure the TC didn't fall out and break toes (a much more important job, I told myself!!)



Rear of engine with flex plate



Rear prop and a big hole where box used to be



Took it outside and steam cleaned it off....

Then noticed it's had a replacement box before, it's been sprayed black and is defo not original.... don't have any history with the car so I haven't a clue how old it was and I'm hoping it's problems aren't down to some catastrophic mistake by a previous builder... also means the TC is much newer than I think as I can't see a garage not replacing it with the box which leads me back to the "do I replace it or not" thoughts....

Also removed the front calipers as they need an overhaul, I changed the pads a few weeks ago and noticed one of the dust seals was ripped but I didn't have the time then to sort it, so I removed the calipers and will do a separate thread on how to strip, clean and rebuild them with a piston and seal kit at less than a 1/4 of the replacement cost.



Then put the wheels back on and pushed the FF into a corner to have a kip for a while, stuck a cover on it as the other half of the unit is a spray shop and the dust is bad..... (and if anyone is after a very nice Audi convertible let me know)



Got the transfer box off and brought the gearbox home, it's sat in the garage waiting for me to recover a bit.... hopefully I'll make a start stripping it tomorrow or Monday..

RRPhil, can you PM me your details and I'll send the valve body to you early next week, cheers....

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  Pete
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

Well done so far Pete.

I’ll PM you with my address.

Incidentally, regarding the stubborn countersunk screws for the F-brake drum, I should have mentioned that it’s best to remove the output speed sensor before pulling off the park lock gear/target wheel to avoid the risk of damaging the sensor. After draining the fluid I usually flip the transmission flat on its back to remove the sump pan first. You can then remove the output speed sensor (single T27 Torx screw holding its retaining plate).

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated

Really enjoying this topic.
Good luck

RRPhil, will get the valve body sent off tomorrow, cheers....

Had a few hours this morning so decided to get on with it...

Gave it another clean and got it on two workmates, removed the sump, filter and valve body, one of the valve body securing bolts was a pain and I stripped the torx fitting out the end of it so had to revert to the Irwin nut remover to get it out...







Then took off the outlet end as advised by Phil, the outer cover came off OK but the target wheel was stuck fast, had to prise it off with a screwdriver, really didn't want to budge, managed to get a couple of mm movement and kept tapping it down and then levering it up until eventually it came off



Close inspection of the splines show they are covered in particles of some horrible crud, there is also signs of mild surface rust!!!! Maybe this box was sat about outside for a long while before it was last overhauled....

Didn't really photo well



I also stripped the torx out of the end of one of the output cover bolts as well



Then had a good look at my Teng torx bits, had them a long while and they have had lots of use and they are starting to wear....



So before I tackle the F brake screws which look a pain to get out if they strip, I have ordered a set of snapon torx sockets...

There also seems to be a lot of dirt in the valve body, the thin oilway in the first pic was full of dirt and you can see it in the corners of the recesses in the second pic... maybe the last builder wasn't very clean... or is this usual Phil??





I'm at hospital tomorrow and then we are away for the Easter weekend so won't be able to do any more until next week anyway...

The front brake caliper rebuild kits turned up today so can always do them if I'm waiting for the torx bits to arrive...

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  Pete
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

Brilliant read as ever.

I have no mechanical knowledge and am in awe of anyone's ability to do this sort of stuff. Whilst I understand the basic workings of the gearbox it is very interesting to see it opened up.

Hope the "mechanics" looking after you do as good a job.

Dean 2006 FFRR TDV8 Vogue
2012 Discovery 4 SDV6 GS

Haylands wrote:

I'm at hospital tomorrow

Brilliant thread! Good luck Haylands  L322 Vogue 2003

This is a great, informative thread. Blow by blow with 'Dr. Phil' keeping a beady eye on proceedings. Keep it up