I tried 0000 and it worked.

I've yet to sort the faults due to being at work but I'm going to have a look in the morning

Bit of an update:

Started the car last night to go out and the splash screen has now come back on. I also have the message display working again which has enabled me to use the IID tool.

I'm getting 1/1 32 -canbus fault. If I clear this fault, it clears a further 18 faults. Within a minute, it faults again and shows hdcp inactive followed by eas susp inactive. The led then locks on the height selector switch and I end up clearing the aforementioned faults again.

At present, I have all the covers off in the rear and facing the sun in case it's water ingress.

Sounds exactly like what I had, Noddy. I assume you found no direct traces of humidity by what you are writing?

You may have the same symptoms with another cause - ibus wire to ground somewhere or something similar. I'd first check all non-OEM connections, components, etc. 
RRC 2Dr, RRC 4Dr,
P38, and 2 L322s
(wife thinks I'm nuts - prob right, too)

It's still faulting. I've yet to get a few hours where I can look at this properly.

If i check the faults using IID, it only shows one fault. If I select "clear all faults" it clears 18 faults.

I've noticed this morning that when I reverse off the driveway and turn the wheel, it faults. I'm off on leave as of tonight, so I'll get more chance to delve.

Quote:

If i check the faults using IID, it only shows one fault. If I select "clear all faults" it clears 18 faults.

I reset it again tonight in the car park at work. As soon as I turned the steering wheel, it faulted again. HDC inactive and Airsusp inactive
Something to do with the steering then?

Would be worth looking at the steering angle senor live value. These have been known to fail...

Ok.... What am I looking for?

When the wheels are straight, it should be equal to 0. Slowly turn the wheel in one direction. The value should change accordingly. If you see it jumping quickly, your sensor is not working properly.

I think I've found the fault.

Whilst going through the fault codes, I noticed one relating to the ABS module front right wheel being open circuit. I just looked behind the front wheel and lo and behold, the cable has been rubbing on the inside of the rim and has exposed copper cable.

This has been mentioned on another range rover forum about the abs causing a suspension fault.

Time to get the insulation tape out!

Here you go...

Just a suggestion, use shrink tubing instead of tape, much more appropriate when fixing a wire outside of the cabin

Well done Noddy, glad you found the fault.

Pat, I would use shrink tubing but I can't get it over either end of the cable. There's a black box at one end and the other goes to the unit on the back of the hub.

I'll replace the cable when I get chance but for now, a tempo rest repair will suffice. I've had to solder a section of cable in, as the yellow cable had chaffed right through. What was left wouldn't reach to rejoin, so I've had to solder about and inch worth in and tape it up.

Anyway, it's done now. Fault free!

Indeed, shrink tube is sometimes hard to fit !

Glad it is all sorted.

Cheers!

So, you crashed the CAN (isn't that an ancient song by Suzy Quattro or someone?).

Did someone do some work in that wheel well or is a clip broken? Why was the wire flopping? In my experince, 9 times out of 10 something like this is either some POS aftermarket component or simply poor workmanship...

Glad to hear you're back up and running. Freaky when nothing works, isn't it? Not even the swiss-army knife diagnostic tool...  
RRC 2Dr, RRC 4Dr,
P38, and 2 L322s
(wife thinks I'm nuts - prob right, too)