fullfatrr.com - View topic - TDV8 Alternatorh how to change/replacement pics

Advertise on fullfatrr.com »

Forum · Gallery · Wiki · Shop · Sponsors

Home · FAQ · New Posts · My Posts · PMs · Search · Members · Map · Calendar · Profile · Donate · Register · Log In

Home > Technical (L322) > TDV8 Alternatorh how to change/replacement pics

Page 3 of 7

Print this entire topic ·

T24RES

Member Since: 22 Nov 2010
Location: Henley-on-Thames
Posts: 936

I did take it out myself. I've been taking some pics to upload when complete.
The UPS guy didn't turn up till late and i'm working outside on the driveway.
I bought mine from CP4Less incuding a new belt was £207.

No great dramas, just lots of bits to take off first.

23rd Jan 2014 6:00pm

Googsy

Member Since: 02 Jun 2011
Location: Where men are men and sheep are nervous.
Posts: 2947

Respect how long did it take so far? Present :2008 TDV8 HSE
Gone Audi A5 2.7TDI
Gone Discovery 3 HSE
Gone Mercedes CLK
Gone Range Rover 2.5 DSE

23rd Jan 2014 8:17pm

Prop

Member Since: 26 Sep 2012
Location: Gloucestershire
Posts: 675

T24RES, I would be very interested to know what the voltages are with the new alternator, especially the under load readings you get. I noticed you were getting 11.7 volts with everything turned on with the old alternator, does the new one improve this at all?

23rd Jan 2014 9:45pm

T24RES

Member Since: 22 Nov 2010
Location: Henley-on-Thames
Posts: 936

About 2hrs to get the alternator out. Hopefully less going back in as now I know my way around. Just in from work, fingers crossed for a couple of dry hours to finish off.

Googsy wrote:
Respect how long did it take so far?

24th Jan 2014 2:12am

T24RES

Member Since: 22 Nov 2010
Location: Henley-on-Thames
Posts: 936

Some pictures of what i did to change the alternator.

Remove the under trays x2, most people will be able to get underneath on extended mode. I left the drivers door open for a few minutes whilst disconnecting the battery so the suspension didn’t come down.
Disconnect the battery.

Click image to enlarge

This is the view into the engine bay with the top cover removed. Just pulls off.

Click image to enlarge

The next thing to remove is the top of the viscous fan cover, there are two 10mm bolts either side that need to be removed. The top portion then lifts up after disconnecting the pipe that runs along the front of it.
The viscous fan as mentioned elsewhere requires a 36mm spanner. My adjustable wrench was exactly the right size. It is a LEFT HANDED thread which means it needs to be undone in a clockwise motion. The holder may be held with a long screwdriver wedged amongst the bolts that hold the pulley.

Click image to enlarge

The two top intercooler pipes need to be removed.
You can see a fair bit of plumbing, with hard and soft pipes that run across the front of the engine. I followed the pipes and undid them at the ends. One runs all the way to the bottom of the radiator and a small cooler, the others to the block and over to the header and another radiator inside the O/S wheel arch. (That’s why the inner arch has the air ducts at the leading edge)

Click image to enlarge

This is the bottom of the water radiator, there is a drain plug here. Although i thought a fair bit of water had come out, there was plenty left to drown my face when i pulled of the bottom hose at the small cooler.
The serpentine belt needs to be taken off the alternator, the tensioner requires a socket with a long bar to make slack to enable the belt to be slipped off the alternator.

Click image to enlarge

This is the connector on top of the alternator, just visible under the red rubber jacket.

Click image to enlarge

There are three bolts to undo to detach the alternator, i found a wobble bar and socket invaluable to undo the bottom most bolts;

Click image to enlarge

You can see the bracket to the right of the alternator, this needs to be removed prior to taking out the alternator itself.

Click image to enlarge

The alternator needs to be rotated clockwise to clear the mountings, not to much but it will become clear. The alternator has a multi plug at the rear, this is the last part before you gently lift it clear.

Click image to enlarge

Refitting is the reversal of the removal as they say 
Others have mentioned removing the O/S inner wing, i did remove it but personally found no benefit so re-fitted prior to refitting.
I also undid the big red wire feeding the starter motor as described elsewhere, this gave me no gain so imo, this can be left as is.
I would have changed the serpentine belt, but CP4Less only list a belt that is too short. I enquired and was tld that was for the RR without air-con. I laughed, the belt number you will need for the TDV8 is 8PK2512 if replacing it.

Click image to enlarge

The small black plug on the header is a bleed screw, this helps when refilling the coolant.

Click image to enlarge

It is not a difficult job, a little fiddly. Took around 4 hours all in.
Any hints and tips, please feel free to ask.

27th Jan 2014 6:23pm

Googsy

Member Since: 02 Jun 2011
Location: Where men are men and sheep are nervous.
Posts: 2947

Excellent work well done Present :2008 TDV8 HSE
Gone Audi A5 2.7TDI
Gone Discovery 3 HSE
Gone Mercedes CLK
Gone Range Rover 2.5 DSE

27th Jan 2014 7:56pm

Prop

Member Since: 26 Sep 2012
Location: Gloucestershire
Posts: 675

Nice job T24RES and great pics and description of work.

Did you get an opportunity to measure voltages with the new alternator yet, especially the under load voltage. As your old alternator seemed fine other than the under load voltages.

Tested my alternator voltages tonight. With lights on at tickover it initially measured 13.6v and raised to 14.7 after about a minute of running, but as I switched more stuff on the voltage slowly dropped and eventually it measured a fraction below 12volts at tickover. But that is with everything turned on, heated seats front and rear, front and rear windscreen demister, steering wheel heating, blowers on full, headlights and high beam, fogs, wipers and stereo.

As soon as I turn off a couple of things like the rear seat heating and front windscreen heating the voltage goes right back up to just over 13 volts. Then I turned majority of stuff off and voltage read 13.5 and slowly crept up over the next 2 minutes to about 14volts. Left it running with headlights on at tickover for another 5 minutes and voltage was now 13,8v. Then turned on everything but front windscreen heater and steering wheel heater and voltage dropped to 13.1volts.

All readings were taking direct from the battery using a meter.Trying to establish if this is normal operation or a sign of impending failure.

27th Jan 2014 8:27pm

T24RES

Member Since: 22 Nov 2010
Location: Henley-on-Thames
Posts: 936

Sounds like reasonable figures to me. I'll test in a similar fashion as soon as the rain slows up for comparison.

27th Jan 2014 8:46pm

northernmonkeyjones

Member Since: 24 Mar 2012
Location: derby
Posts: 8504

2016 Range Rover Autobiography SDV8 Santorini Black

Great write up, i shall pass have a go now i have some pics to go by😄

Was it easy to bleed the coolant system? Heard it can be a pita.

Could definitely be one for the Wiki..... Stan? There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammerðŸ˜œðŸ˜œ
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
Fiat 500x 1.4 multiair Lounge 2015
2010 LR D4 Commercial 2.7 TDV6

28th Jan 2014 7:51pm

T24RES

Member Since: 22 Nov 2010
Location: Henley-on-Thames
Posts: 936

Bleeding the system was ok, slowly does it. Took out the black plug on the header tank, this helps to bleed the system. Then allowed to cool and topped up later

28th Jan 2014 7:57pm

stan
Site Moderator

Member Since: 13 Jul 2010
Location: a moderate moderated moderator moderating moderately in moderation
Posts: 35272

nice write up, wiki'fied...

28th Jan 2014 8:02pm

Prop

Member Since: 26 Sep 2012
Location: Gloucestershire
Posts: 675

T24RES did you ever get a chance to check the voltages since fitting the new alternator. I am still curious to see how the new alternator behaves under extreme load compared to the old one.

5th Feb 2014 8:50am

Andy_J

Member Since: 14 Nov 2011
Location: Muir of Ord
Posts: 479

2007 Range Rover Vogue SE TDV8 Java Black

Any tips on how to get the alternator past the black pipe in front of it, got mine loose and I just can't find a way of getting it pat the pipe.

How far forward does the alternator come before you need to take the multi plug off 56 TDV8 Vogue SE
9 Freelanders, 2x 2002 TD4ES, 2001 TD4, 2002 1.8GS, 2000 XEDI, 2x 2000 1.8ES, 2004 1.8 & 2000 1.8 GS (rolled)
91 Lotus Carlton (sold)
90 Lotus Elan (BRG)

8th Feb 2014 5:21pm

T24RES

Member Since: 22 Nov 2010
Location: Henley-on-Thames
Posts: 936

Pm sent Ian

8th Feb 2014 7:12pm

T24RES

Member Since: 22 Nov 2010
Location: Henley-on-Thames
Posts: 936

Prop wrote:
T24RES did you ever get a chance to check the voltages since fitting the new alternator. I am still curious to see how the new alternator behaves under extreme load compared to the old one.

These are the voltages read from the IID display:

Tickover = 14.1 - 14.2v

Full Load @ tickover = 12.2-12.3v ((rear seats/front seats/front & Rear screen/full fan/headlights/radio)

Full load @ 2000rpm = 14.1 14.2v Ian

11th Feb 2014 11:31am

Page 3 of 7

All times are GMT

Jump to

< Previous Topic | Next Topic >

Posting Rules

You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum