Alt died spectacularly on mine today, dash lit up like a Christmas tree etc. I had changed the battery as it was weak, clearly it was weak because the alternator was on its last legs.

I've got the car apart to the point that the alternator is sitting there loose, but can I get it over the plastic turbo inlet? Can I hell. Any tips? Tried turning it in various orientations to do so, but it seems not to be able to pass over the inlet. I've even tried to remove that plastic hose - but after removing the securing nut (to the engine mount bracket), cannot move it.

Have you been able to disconnect the electrical connections? You may have to do this by feel, without actually seeing what you're doing. Disconnecting the induction pipe in front of the alternator helped me. I had a stick I used to push down on that pipe as I wriggled the alternator out. It gives you those extra 2mm of clearance.
I know it's not easy, but trust me, it does come out that way. It needs to be twisted at a certain angle, but as the original author stated, it will be sort of obvious.

Best of luck!
Henrik

I had disconnected the main output, but hadn't got the alternator out enough to disconnect the smaller multiplug.

As it happens, I managed to get it out last night, the advice of loosening the dipstick tube at the top mount was spot on, it gives those vital extra couple of mm to allow the alternator to slip out, also whilst pressing down on the RH turbo inlet duct.

It also helps in these cases to step away from the car as the frustration levels can increase, and you don't think clearly whilst playing the Rubik's puzzle of getting the old alternator out and the new one in!

Help, please. fighting with my alternator removal at the moment, how far out will it come before disconnecting electrics. Red terminal on the side and plug at the back ?

Got the alternator swapped, very tight fit ! Didn’t need to loosen dipstick, expansion tank or Lower induction hose. Saying all that it looks like it would be easier if induction hose could be removed entirely for the job. Don’t know if it can be removed?
In answer to my own question red terminal on side of alternator needs to be removed as soon as you can, certainly before the alternator will move any distance. The plug on back can be removed once alternator is almost clear. Squeeze clip on plug to release it.
Just got to put everything back together now.

All back together and surprisingly it works ! Car is much happier now it has a good supply of electricity. One tip, check the O ring on radiator drain plug otherwise when you fill up with coolant and start the engine it dumps your new coolant all over the garage floor !

Nice work  2016 Skoda Octavia VRS Estate
<gone>2009 FF Vogue TDV8 Buckingham Blue</gone>
<gone>2015 BMW 520D SE (not my favourite car)</gone>
<gone>2009 D3 HSE Galway Green</gone>

Got the alternator pretty much out, with the exception of the electrical connector at the back. How does it release? I’ve seen reference to “squeezing it” but where do I squeeze? I’ve tried a few variations and maybe my fingers aren’t quite strong enough to release it  Got - 2017 SDV8 Autobiography in Loire Blue
Had- 2008 TDV8 Vogue SE in Java black
Had - 2007 S/C in Stornoway Grey

Yes squeeze the plug and it should just pop off. If memory is correct it’s similar to the plug that connects the fan ? Either way don’t force it like I did and break the plug!
I take it you have removed the nut and wire from the side of alternator?

Yes, my fear is that I force it and it breaks.
Yes, the other cable is already off. Got - 2017 SDV8 Autobiography in Loire Blue
Had- 2008 TDV8 Vogue SE in Java black
Had - 2007 S/C in Stornoway Grey

Quick update to say I’ve now got the new alternator in and tightened up. I’m just awaiting the delivery of a new polyrib belt, since it looks clear the alternator has never been replaced before, so I can reassemble the plumbing.
A pig of a job, especially outdoors. I started this during storm Caira, or Dennis, or probably both and could only work on it between snow, hail, rain and wind, so it’s hard to put a time on how long it took.
Other than getting purchase on the hose clips to remove them, my biggest issues were the 2 lower bolts on the bracket and getting the screw back onto the connector on the side of the alternator once it’s in situ. I ended up having to push the (13mm) nut into a ring spanner, put some insulating tape over the top to hold it in place and manoeuvre it over the screw and try and keep in in place while removing the tape and getting spanner out, all the time praying the nut wouldn’t fall off again. I also had severe trouble getting the nut loose on the viscous fan, and in the end had to take a cold chisel and a big hammer to it to get it off.
So I guess the bottom line is, although it’s not difficult per se, it’s seriously awkward and your arms will be in a mess and your fingers will ache.
I should also add my thanks to those pioneers who have gone before me and provided invaluable details on how this is done.
I salute you all  Got - 2017 SDV8 Autobiography in Loire Blue
Had- 2008 TDV8 Vogue SE in Java black
Had - 2007 S/C in Stornoway Grey

I too started this job just over a month ago now, and its difficult to do on a gravel driveway when all it does is rain.

Im at the stage where I now have to work out how to rotate and get the damn thing out past the induction pipe. I've already decided that I will take off the plastic ribbed joining hose to allow a little more movement of the solid plastic induction hose.

I also have the issue of the dipstick tube, which looks to be in a different place (further forward on the block) than in the photos posted here (it sits in front of the alternator in its usual place).

I managed another 1/2 hour on it this morning until it started down with rain again

Tips for others so far:

1) Allow 10 times the time you think it will take.

2) if you are struggling with getting the viscous fan nut undone, a couple of days of applying plus-gas and then using an SDS hammer drill to 'tap' it free worked wondereds when several other methods failed (heat, tool to keep the pulley stationary).

3) Removing the wheel arch liners helps a little - it gives you more light, and lets you join up the dots between what you see when you look down from the top, and what you see when you look up from below. It doesnt help with access at all however, and is a bit of a pig to do.

4) To get at the two lower alternator bolts, a 1/2 drive 13mm standard depth socket on a 1/2 inch universal joint and then an 18 inch extension bar works wonders. It give you just the correct angle to get onto the bolts as you work your way through the maze to get to them.

5) If you have the means to earn extra funds, it may be a lot easier to do extra work than to save on a garage bill for this job. I really enjoy working on my cars, even the difficult stuff. I am sure I will get a sense of achievement at the end of all this, but this is the first time in a long time I have wished I just got the garage to do it.

A lot of people say they struggled to get the alternator out and clear. Maybe I just got lucky, as I just turned it a bit anti-clockwise and it just came out. Getting it back in was equally stress free and I didn’t have to do any of the other dismantling that others have done.
I too had major regrets half way through but the sense of achievement was well worth it.

Another thing to be conscious of is the refilling of the cooling fluid. I had a huge airlock that made the heater run cold and had to bleed it a few times to get rid of it, so have plenty spare. Got - 2017 SDV8 Autobiography in Loire Blue
Had- 2008 TDV8 Vogue SE in Java black
Had - 2007 S/C in Stornoway Grey

I have just had my alternator fail. A tell-tail of impending failure is an intermittent whine, it’s faint and matches engine speed but only seems apparent when driving. It came and went randomly over the last 2 months. I note others have mentioned a noise.

I thought it was a slight boost leak or something but couldn’t replicate by just reving in park while I looked under the bonnet and nothing evident at tick over. Noise seems to come from the front / right looking from the drivers seat, but it’s difficult to tell.

Failed voltage check: 11.5 volts at tickover, 12.5v volts at 2000 rpm and 13v at 4000 rpm. Prior I had noted 12.5 at tick over and 13.5v at 2000 rpm. Guess it has been failing for a while before giving in completely

Base if you here a strange faint whine, check your battery voltage and charging voltages. I will update once I have changed my alternator.

At least you’ll have good weather for it

Good luck. Got - 2017 SDV8 Autobiography in Loire Blue
Had- 2008 TDV8 Vogue SE in Java black
Had - 2007 S/C in Stornoway Grey