Looks like my alternator is failing. Drifting in and out of charge mode.
Does anyone know how I determine which one I need 6pk or 8pk?
And are there any special tools required to get it out? I intend changing it myself.

Regards

Last edited by T24RES on 27th Jan 2014 6:25pm. Edited 1 time in total

worth doing just had mine done. Mike and Mechanics member did his theres a post about it if you do a search he didnt need to remove as much as first thought think it took him 6 hours leisurely between cigars and tea  Present :2008 TDV8 HSE
Gone Audi A5 2.7TDI
Gone Discovery 3 HSE
Gone Mercedes CLK
Gone Range Rover 2.5 DSE

I'll check that out, thank-you.

I have been testing the charge rate:
1. Prior to start , tested through the tow bar socket, is 12.46v.
2. Start engine, for approx. 2minutes the reading was 12.41v
3. After 2mins the rate of charge was 14.8v.

I'm confused. The battery is a Bosch 5yr large as you like special, as others have (can't remember the proper name). 18months old.

Is the alternator dying? I've had the disco lights with everything not working a few times now.

Advice...............

If alternator showing at 14.8 that's fine. Mine would only show an average of 13.5 whilst driving. I suspect it might be the battery. Battery charged when engine off should read 12.8 volts and after a while 12.7 or so. I had my Bosch replaced under warranty so I knew it wasn't battery. Certainly seems a bit more investigation is needed but 14.8 is bang on perfect for alternator. Another thought is it might be voltage regulator ? Before mine failed I also had a whining noise that increased and decreased with speed .Good luck with your investigations  Present :2008 TDV8 HSE
Gone Audi A5 2.7TDI
Gone Discovery 3 HSE
Gone Mercedes CLK
Gone Range Rover 2.5 DSE

Worth double checking the connections on both the battery and alternator.

Is the voltage regulator a part of the alternator unit itself? Googsy, I started to notice this whining before Xmas and initially thought it was the gearbox.

Last edited by kungfupanda on 18th Jan 2014 6:34pm. Edited 1 time in total

Test the voltages by putting the probes on the battery terminals both with the engine off and with it running about 2000rpm.

Getting slowly more and more nervous...

I'm thinking of swapping it just to be on the safe side! Would LR history show up if it had been done already on the service system?

Is was wondering on the model as well as there are several listed on the ECP website, I think the difference is in the belt pulley? There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
Fiat 500x 1.4 multiair Lounge 2015
2010 LR D4 Commercial 2.7 TDV6

There are 2 lr part codes depending in vin number....

Yle550440 8a268514 ->
Yle550340 7a000001 -> 8a268514

I'm wondering if they changed it....... Cos it was failing and they are the difference between the 6 ribbed belt and the 8 ribbed belt?

Conor are you after of before the vin changeover? I am after so mine is yle500440

Just a theory...... There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
Fiat 500x 1.4 multiair Lounge 2015
2010 LR D4 Commercial 2.7 TDV6

My VIN is after too, what does that mean?

I'm not sure car was registered march 2008 build was Dec 2007 so maybe before vin can't check as it's dark. If it's after vin then what that means is it has the improved version alternator less prone to failing. Present :2008 TDV8 HSE
Gone Audi A5 2.7TDI
Gone Discovery 3 HSE
Gone Mercedes CLK
Gone Range Rover 2.5 DSE

That's the theory I'm thinking about. Mine is also dec 07 reg but that is not really indicator of build date, and is just after the swap in terms of vin.

It's possibly nothing relevant but may indicate that they updated the alternator at that point which is why we see less failing on latter cars. There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
Fiat 500x 1.4 multiair Lounge 2015
2010 LR D4 Commercial 2.7 TDV6

14.8 is spot on, but maybe worth putting everything on electrical in the car & rechecking. It maybe that its breaking down under load. If you do change it & need any advice feel free to ask. It is a pig but not that complicated. Good luck Mike  Worse things happen at sea! Well thats what swmbo said when WRENS came to sea!!!

T24RES wrote:

I'll check that out, thank-you.

I have been testing the charge rate:
1. Prior to start , tested through the tow bar socket, is 12.46v.
2. Start engine, for approx. 2minutes the reading was 12.41v
3. After 2mins the rate of charge was 14.8v.

I'm confused. The battery is a Bosch 5yr large as you like special, as others have (can't remember the proper name). 18months old.

Is the alternator dying? I've had the disco lights with everything not working a few times now.

Advice...............

A, change the battery (as its under warranty) for piece of mind... B, when your testing your alt output, 14.8v after 2mins... Leave the car running and then put on all the lights, the heated screens, the blowers etc etc etc which will really make your alt work hard and keep an eye on that reading... It will fluctuate slightly but should not drop much below 13.5v... Much under that and you have issues sir

Thanks Craig,

The two minutes- I mean that the alternator doesn't start charging until 2 mins has passed, I thought it should start charging straight away??