I'd say some water has caused that so best to identify the route cause if you haven't already done so.

Getting another socket will not be easy as it will be part of the loom. Best to try some breakers and then splice in the new one not an easy job with all the wires but going one by one with a soldering iron should do it neatly  FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
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If you were to carefully take the plug to pieces and note the position and colour of each wire connected to it shouldn't be too dificult to fit a new plug to the harness, assuming the harness is long enough to reach to the amp socket with a new plug fitted.
The biggest problem you may have is finding a new plug.
I would be inclined to try and find a scrapped car with the same set up and cut the plug off the harness leaving about 200mm of cable attached.
Then cut off your old plug and fit the recovered plug to the ends of your harness by jointing the cables by colour. Not difficult.
Where to find a scrapped car is the problem.
Another option is a harness replacement, how far does the harness go until a plug / socket is fitted?
Good auto electrician should sort you out.

Try VWP - vehicle wiring products for a new connector.

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-...mepage.php Land Rover Addict
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Previous
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2009 5.0V8SC Autobiography
2006 4.2V8SC Autobiography
2004 4.4V8 Vogue

Does anybody know what the part number is?

Workshop manual says "Amplifier Harness Connector C2077" no hits on google

I'm wondering if it would be easier to put in a new loom, don't mind spending £100 but I have a feeling it could be £1000+

Yes, the loom is ridiculously expensive and covers half of the back of the car meaning installation is also ridiculously expensive. And finding OEM connectors such as this new is extraordinarily difficult. That is why headlight plugs for facelift conversions were selling for GBP 65 or even more on ebay...

It's hard to tell from the pic, but if the harness connector can't be saved, I'd try to get a breaker to clip off the connector with a couple of inches of wire left and graft the plug back in. And if the amp still works, the cheapo alternative would be to solder wires to the board the connector sits on and pic up a couple of generic multi-pin connectors at an electronics store and make your own connection.

What happened? It doesn't really look like water ingress - just a very serious short.  
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(wife thinks I'm nuts - prob right, too)

It was water ingress, 5 days of continuous rain over Christmas

Well a quick email this morning to a breakers yard and I have a new plug with wires attached on the way, £15

Just a matter of joining up the wires, the big question is what else is damaged, I'm 99% sure I'll need a new amp but the head unit isn't coming on. The fuse did blow so fingers crossed that saved it.

Thanks for the help, I'll keep the thread updated

MRD, I have a non-working one of these which you can have - the only damage is one of the spikes in the socket snapped under corrosion, meaning I couldn't get sound on one side of the car; otherwise it works. You may be able to swap them over. PM me if you like.

Thanks for the offer, not sure I'd be able to fix the broken pins which is a worry. I'll have to source a working one somewhere, maybe the breakers will have that too ( should have asked them, d'oh )

You could bye-pass the broken pin by going into the unit, soldering a thin wire onto the relevant socket connection, bringing the cable out of the unit casing and connecting directly onto the relevant plug cable.
Did it on a Lear DSP unit and it worked perfectly.

Job done!

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blimey looks like one of those BT sub station boxes...good job  ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
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did you solder the wires together ? 1990 3.5 v8 defender
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I used connection blocks for the thick wires and for the small speaker wires I used my old tried and tested method of stripping back 5 cm of skin, then twisting the wires until they stuck together solidly, electrical insulation tape to seal and protect each connection. The entire cable will be put in plastic piping so it's future proof.

I was going to use an sealed ammunition box to house the replacement amp but the amp is an inch too big to fit

^^ No offence mate, twist and tape is in no way good enough for the power that will be going through them wires.

You really need to solder and heat shrink, yes it takes a little longer but will be a proper job that you can rely on, first bump you hit and you could get a short that will blow up the new amp and or set fire to the car.