As it was cold this morning I figured I'd use the rear blowers to warm the space up for the kids quicker.
I set the rear blower temp dial to hot and the blower level to medium. However the air never even came close to warm. Turning the temp guage to cold just made the air colder.
The front heating was set to 28, the air con was off and the blowers were set to feet and mid level (and works fine)

Is this (yet another) fault, or am I using it incorrectly?

Thanks for the help.

I dont think mine works all that well in hot either to be honest. It also takes a long time to heat up for me. I think its cause its a long pipe, which cools the air a lot so by the time it reaches the vents, its much cooler than when it left the heater matrix. Thus it takes a long time for the vent pipe to heat up.

It also seems to be tied / limited to the heat setting of the passenger side, but I'm not 100% sure on that.

For me, I think that its a gimmick a little bit sometimes ... makes more noise than anything else, and the car heats up quicker just using the face vents. It is good though for cooling things on long runs. I normally put a box of things to keep cool in the middle and place a towel over the vents to push the air down. The cold air works really well keeping things cool. V8 or else ...

fisha wrote:

It also seems to be tied / limited to the heat setting of the passenger side,

fisha wrote:

For me, I think that its a gimmick a little bit sometimes ... makes more noise than anything else,

Yes, it's certainly loud enough..

the left thumbwheel controls the speed and the right controls the temperature [up for warmer]...the max temp is controlled from the front ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
.

***

Thats what I thought.

So in theory, it should have been blowing hot as the front was set to full heat, and the right thumbwheelwas set to hot.

Clearly it should work, but doesn't. Quelle surpris. :shakes head:

yes, in theory... ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
.

Mine always blows hot and seems to warm up very quickly i would say you have a fault somewhere as what you said it not normal or right onto no6 Range Rover

Everyone needs a hobby

You may wish to read this

Click image to enlarge

Mine has only ever blown cold air? .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Do i detect a spate of the 'sticky flaps' in the air.....

Sorry Mick and 47p2 but i had to beat you to it this time!!  FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

kingpleb wrote:

Do i detect a spate of the 'sticky flaps' in the air.....

Trust you to bring the tone of the forum down

On a serious note mine has only a few times blown hot air, most of the time its warm as i guess the circuit extends from the front heat excanger back and thus loses some heat to the front and has less for the rear...

Has anyone checked Rave to see how its all setup? FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

Mine goes from toasty hot to ice cold

^^ I do try my best!!


Anyway looking over a post thoughtfully posted up by another member this image shows there are 2 feeds to the cabin, and one return.

If your blending mechanism(soory cant bear to say the other word as im in giggles already!) is free moving then it could be that the pipes are gunged up if the coolant hasn't been changed for years.

Does your car get long runs at all, say 40mins+??

If so is it the same after these runs?

I only ask as it could be that the short runs and the long long run of pipe are just never getting enough flow through them and thus are gunged or just not getting warm enough. A temp guage may indicate running temps within 10-15 minutes of normal driving but the whole engine hasn't warmed through in that time and the oil certainly won't be near proper running temp unless its been pushed hard  FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

The air for the rear comes directly off the heater matrix and the ac evaporator and is simply another air outlet on the very complicated heater / evaporator box.
If you don't have adequate heating and cooling at the back it suggests the blend flap isn't operating correctly. This could be either the flap itself or more likely the stepper motor isn't operating for some reason.
No coolant pipes involved.